Singapore stepped onto the world stage when Sir Thomas Raffles, in 1819, decided on making this island a bastion of the British Empire. It prospered as a free trade hub in Southeast Asia. The glory days came to an end with the Japanese invasion in February, 1942. Up to 150 000 allied troops were killed or imprisoned at the notorious Changi Prison. Although the British were welcomed back after the war, the empires days were numbered. Under Lee Kuan Yew, Singapore evolved and grew. Even having been booted out of the federation of Malaysia in 1964, Singapore continued to industrialise under Lee's one party rule. By the mid 1990's the city-state had the worlds highest rate of home ownership and continues to flourish as an important harbour and commercial state. Singapore is First world and renown for its cleanliness and law abiding citizens!
Our aim was to see a bit of Singapore, but also to finalise the last bit of shopping and boat issues before sailing into Indonesia. Our first trip into Singapore was an eye opener for us all! We caught the bus in to the city and hopped out at Vivo City where there must be 3 huge shopping malls interlinked! For the next few hours we walked around from shop to shop. Dan & Jenna caught in the games shop and the book shop! B did not know which way to turn with so many choices! After a few hours of window shopping, we then caught a train into the city where we did the checking in procedures with the port authorities. With that all done, Singapore was to be explored!
B : One Degree Fifteen Marina wasn't my idea of a good time. The marina office, showers and laundry were a 6 minute walk and hidden away, out of sight. The office staff were haughty and superior, and the massive displays of wealth left me feeling uncomfortable. The dock staff were friendly and we rarely saw any other boat owners. It's the kind of place you feel very ashamed to hang up your washing on your boat, which went up and down for days as it hardly ever stopped raining. The accompanying bar and restaurants were very modern and lavish and, needless to say, we never tried them. The pool was a gorgeous see-through wall affair which I declined as I would surely have looked like Moby Dick through the water! The poolside ice-creams were a cool R22 per scoop!!!! The kids enjoyed the little playground and kids room with its TV and ball pool. Dan, as usual, made a friend with a little Chinese boy with a remote controlled Ferrari, bet his Dad owned the full scale version. The changing room where we used the loo's was spectacular, huge and airy with wonderful use of unpolished and polished granite, stone and glamour. Jenna adored the hair drying room with 5 dryers and accompanying sprays, gels, deo's and creams. The spacious loo's had inch thick frosted glass doors and automatic remote taps and ultra-violet hand blow driers. Of course there was a massive flat screen TV, comfy seating and rows of lockers with electronic locks. Our whole boat would have fitted in half of this bathroom, pretty amazing and Jenna loved it.
We were on Sentosa Island, the centre of Singapore's manufactured tourist attractions so the buses in and out were very convenient and free to residents. We visited the Vivo city shopping centre a few times and always came home carrying fruit and veggies and some specials like pesto, brie and fruit and nut mix for muesli. The prices were about the same as Malaysia but in Sing dollars which equated to double the price! The centre was vast and throbbing with people, mostly young and very fashionably dressed. We found a huge bookshop and the Toys-R-Us was also massive. I got separated when I ducked into Marks and Spencer's to look at the bra's and it took me an hour and a call over the public address system, before I found Rob. They were very happily ensconced in the electronics hall, playing all the latest video games and looking at cameras. Rob had left our camera on his seat after emailing in the Port Dickson marina cafe and it was stolen by the bar staff, we suspect, as they rarely had any patrons. Well everything was available at the mall but I have little need of anything fashionable, high-heeled or fragranced. One thing I did indulge in was a brow pluck! Jens and I had a Girls Day out while the boys went into town and we happened to pass a MAC make-up shop with a lady plucking brows in the window. Later we tottered past again, Jenna clippy-cloppying along in her high-heeled shoes and in we went. Jens browsed while I submitted to a very thorough and excellent brow pluck. S$15 (R60) later I looked very glamorous and was accused, by Pam Pretorius later that evening (whilst on Skype), of wearing make up so it must have been good! Jens later set up a make-up shop on Shayile. We also indulged in a coffee and cake special for S$4.50 (R18) and enjoyed an amazing chocolate mousse cake with orange zest and raisins and brownie for Jens. Then we hit the fruit and veg again and went home with arms and back pack loaded with pumpkins, broccoli on special and some of the best apples I have ever eaten. The produce is really top draw but the price certainly reflects that. We bought plums and nectarines (died and gone to heaven) from SA, sadly all gone the next day. As we were just a few days away from Chinese New Year, the shops were full of round orange fruit, auspicious and given as gifts to people. So boxes of usually inexpensive 'naartjies' are seriously overpriced. It continues to amaze me how poor countries seem to have lovely cheap fresh produce and developed countries have such over priced fruit and veg, all imported!
One overcast Sunday we set of on the bus, then climbed into the underground train and then back on a bus for a trip to the famous Zoo. It took 2 hours but was worth the trip. We indulged in Kentucky Fried Chicken while it poured with rain and then we bought poncho's as it didn't stop much for the rest of the afternoon. The zoo is wonderfully layered out and feels huge, spacious and very green and lush. There is a shuttle bus but its an easy walk and there is always another animal display to attract your attention. We loved the otters in their above and below water glass-walled cage. They were so frisky and were calling in high voices. Like all the other animals, except the old leopard, they looked happy and in great condition. There is a whole Australian section and Jenna and I spent ages watching the rather disgusting and disreputable Red-Bummed Baboons from Ethiopia. Rob and Dan thought we had wandered off and while looking for us they got separated and Dan was MISSING! We hadn't left the display but had been out of sight watching the families through a huge glass wall. When I found Rob he looked pale with worry and my heart sank. This was a big place. Jen and I set off down the road, calling loudly for Dan while Rob waited at the last place we had all been together. I soon found an employee and asked for help. She immediately radioed all staff and we tracked Dan down but it took about 30 minutes to get to him on the golf cart. He was very tearful and had clearly been running around like a headless chicken! Once we were all re-united we celebrated with an ice cream, ran through rules of separation again and carried on with our tour. We saw Africa's animals, many primates, loved the Orangutans which were fed Minneola's and drank from a tin cup, just a meter away from us. The littlest one threw a genuine temper tantrum as he wasn't allowed as many as the elders. They seem placid and slightly bored but full of character with scary human characteristics. The white tigers were stately and handsome but we loved the jaguars literally diving into a pool to retrieve bits of chicken, truly beautiful cats which actually swim under water. There was all the usual reptiles, snakes etc and the worlds largest rat, next years Chinese Year of the Rat. A fascinating creature, the size of a Labrador, shorter legs, with ginger-brown wiry hair, like a cane rat on steroids!
Jenna and a Pigmy Hippo
When we were back in Langkawi, and with access to Skype, I had been using the facility to chat to old friends. (What a magnificent tool!) One of them was an old school friend of mine, Margaret Widd. Margaret is now living in New Zealand and catching up with her was fantastic! Catching up with old school mates and reminiscing about the past is always great and so Margaret and I spend quite some time doing just that! She also heavily promoted New Zealand as a destination and, time permitting, we will certainly be visiting that part of the world, albeit a fly in visit. We will take Margaret up on her "tour guiding" experience! It was during one of our chats that Margaret mentioned that another old school friend of ours, Karla Gatlish, was living in Singapore. She gave me her email address and I made contact. We organised a get together on Shayile and Karla came down to 115 Marina for a "school friend catch up session". It has been some 27 years and I hardly recognised her when she greeted me on the walk-on. Back on Shayile, we began a long chat session of "catch up", learning about each others lives since leaving school. With B having prepared a few snacks, the 3 of us had an enjoyable evening together. Karla's husband works for a radio station in Singapore and, besides some IT consultancy work, Karla enjoys scuba diving most weekends. Thanks a ton Karla for making the time and sharing what is truly that exciting life of yours!
Class of 81' school friends - Karla and Rob
Kids in the play center at 115 Marina
Shayile work goes on and I managed to get my pactor modem repaired whilst in Singapore. We now have access to weather on board Shayile and the facility to email family and friends back home! As the flares on board Shayile had all expired, I bought a new set and other items that might come in handy on our way through Indonesia. Unfortunately, yours truly, lost the camera (it was stolen in Port Dickson) and we had to replace it. I went into town with Daniel and tackled the "electronics Plaza" of Sim Lim Towers! It was unbelievable and I have never seen so many camera, TV, computer and other electronics shops in all my life! After many quotes and camera investigating, I settled on one. (The stolen camera saga turned out to be a blessing in disguise as the new one was a real winner!)
Back at Shayile, we were now all ready for departure from Singapore. Although a great place, it was expensive in every sense and we were keen to move on, leaving the city life and constant spending behind us! On the morning of the 6th February 2008, I checked us out of 115 Marina and, with full supplies on Shayile, we motored out of the marina. Outside, we again did the immigration formalities. The motor launch pulled up along Shayile and we handed them the necessary documents. Within 15 minutes, we were on our way, heading out into the shipping lanes with Indonesia some 20 miles away.
7th February 2008 - Indonesia
Singapore to Bali
Leaving the Western quarantine area of Singapore, we headed out into the busy shipping lane, on route to Indonesia. It was only a 20 mile trip across the Singapore Straits to the island of Batam, where we were to check in. As we headed into the straits, the ships were there... in their glory! It was a double highway and we felt like rabbits about to negotiate a busy crossing, not too sure when to try take the gap! We had a few things in our favour - The wind was blowing 20 knots and we had current with us. I edged Shayile closer to the oncoming "highway" waiting for a gap. It was quite intimidating to see the ships streaming up and down, separated by not more than a few minutes! As a gap opened up, we turned south, heading directly across the lanes. With both engines and full sails we picked up the speed to 8.5knots and gunned it! Once across the "upcoming" lane, we waited for another gap, and then gunned it across the next lane as ships passed not more than 300 meters away! As the ships passed us by, Shayile pitched and rolled but, within 15 minutes, we were across the busy lanes and on the Indonesian side. I then relaxed and cut back on the engines. Once again thanks to our AIS system, we were able to accurately identify just how close each ship would come to Shayile. Turning east, we began a slow but uncomfortable beat up to Batam Island and the entrance to Nongsa Point Marina. On reaching the marina entrance, I called ahead on the VHF radio only to be told that the marina was closed due to renovations to the walk-ons. We contemplated our next move and realised that anchoring off was not an option due to the high winds and rough seas. We would need to press on and find a suitable anchorage elsewhere. Checking in to Indonesia would also have to be done at another port. We battled on through rough seas and then turned south, making our way between the Batam and Bintang Islands of Indonesia. The Indonesian islands just south of Singapore are know as the Riau Islands and we were to make our way through them as we headed south towards Borneo.
B and the kids
Singapore Straits - green marks are ships, red is Shayile!
As we sailed down between the Bintang and Batam islands, the tide turned and worked against us. With 25 - 30 knots of wind, along with the swell pushing from behind, we now had a sea state of wind over current! Soon the seas grew and the waves became steeper. I took over from our trusty auto pilot and hand steered Shayile. On occasions we were picked up by waves and launched down the swell! It was exhilarating but a little nervy at times when the bow plunged into the wave ahead! B was a little disturbed by the size of the waves and their actions, but we held our course for some 3 hours before finding an island which offered protection. Making our way between the island of Pulau Buau and Batam, we found the best of the bad spots to anchor. There was no real protection as the wind funneled down between the 2 islands. It was a relief to finally drop the anchor and relax after the rollercoaster ride down from Singapore, and it certainly was our first days cruising in adverse conditions for many a month!
Palau Ansunda
Early the next morning, we upped anchor and headed south again. The plan was to hop through the Riau Islands, day sailing and stopping each night to relax and enjoy the scenery. Once 350 miles south of Singapore, we would then angle east and make our way across to Kalimantan, Borneo. Our next anchorage was about 45 miles due south and as we entered the channel, the wind picked up again and soon we were under full sails and enjoying the journey. It blew 20 - 25 knots for most of the day and B and I kept saying to each other that this was sailing! For 2 days now we had sailed without using engines. When was the last time we had done that? That evening we entered a group of small islands, where we were to anchor for the night, and looked for a protected spot to drop the anchor. We battled to find one as either it was exposed and rough, or it was too deep. After an hour of scratching around, in stepped local knowledge! A group of guys on a small wooden motor boat came out towards Shayile and signaled us to follow them into a small channel between 2 islands. We did, and soon found ourselves in a reasonably protected spot where we dropped anchor for the evening. We were just off the island of Pulau Ansunda. Again not the best as the current was flowing past us at a rate and the wind was howling overhead. As we completed anchoring, the motor boat that assisted us pulled up alongside Shayile and, without asking or waiting, they all bailed onto Shayile! Fortunately we had been told about this "local habit" and we expected it to happen sooner or later. They all made themselves comfortable in our cockpit and we made every effort to communicate with them. We took out our Lonely Planet travel book which had a few Indonesian / English translations and did our best to chat. Unfortunately they had been drinking alcohol, which initially surprised us, (being Muslim territory) and then they wanted more! After an hour of tiring conversation, we gave them a beer and asked them to leave as we were tired and wanted to sleep. Without hesitation, they thanked us, climbed back into their boat and left. With that we made dinner and climbed into bed for the night, exhausted. Believe it or not, sailing is tiring! Although there may not be a lot to do out on the ocean, it is physically and, more so, mentally demanding. At the end of each day we are exhausted and sleep comes easily.
Unfortunately we were also beginning to understand why this part of Indonesia is not "cruisers paradise"! It is extremely isolated, there are no fish, the diving is non existent, the water is dirty and we rarely saw any decent beaches. At every anchorage, your yacht was invaded by locals and privacy was not appreciated. But, this is all part of a new experience in a new area. We put our lures out each day but never caught a thing besides plastic bags and weed. We never dived or swam as the water was too murky and the currents ran fiercely past Shayile. We just had to appreciate a culture we had not yet experienced. We are told that privacy and personal space are not part of the Indonesian vocabulary! Through these islands, we just sailed and relaxed as a family, enjoying each others company and getting involved in serious school work. So, although not a tropical destination, we made the best of it and took in what we could of the area and the people.
Fishing structures in the sea
Elvis has left the building!!
Palau Kentar
Next morning, after our compulsory cup of coffee, we upped the anchor and motored out of the group of islands and headed south towards our next nights stop. Some 5 miles out of Pulau Ansunda, we came across many fishing houses on stilts. As we weaved our way between them, we marveled at their strength and distant from land. Some were in 15 meters of water and 4 miles out to sea. How they withstood the waves, wind and weather, I have no idea. Basically they are a stilted platform with a small shed perched on top. Underneath, nets are suspended into the water and, at night they are platform is brightly lit. Then, periodically, the net is lifted and the fish that were attracted to the light are scooped up! In my mind, a lot of work for little reward, but perhaps it is a very effective way of catching fish; some kind of FAD. (fish attracting devise) Again the wind picked up to over 20 knots and both B and I could not understand why we were experiencing such strong winds in this area. I was aware of the wind direction and potential strength but 4 days of continuous strong winds had me a bit puzzled. During all previous chats to others that had been through Indonesia, motoring was the game! I got onto my sail mail weather program and requested more information on weather in the greater area. I needed to know why we were getting such strong winds and big seas and what was causing it. After another wild days sailing, with reefs in the sails we found what was supposed to be our anchorage for the night. Unfortunately, there was no way we could drop anchor as there was virtually no protection from the elements, but, fortunately the whole area is littered with islands and we made our way across to Pulau Kentar where we tucked into its lee and dropped anchor. This trip south was now turning into quite an epic sailing trip! B and I could not believe how we were sailing each day under wind power at 8 - 10 knots! We had never had these kind of sailing conditions, for an extended time, before! We were loving it, but worse was to come. As the wind kept up its strength, the sea got bigger. It was not the big seas so such that annoyed us, but the short, steep, choppy seas that made our life on Shayile very uncomfortable indeed, and it was getting worse every day!
From Pulau Kentar, we were on our way again. Each day we had only stopped for the night and were making good progress south towards Pulau Bangka. That day, the 9th February, was another memorable day for the Shayile Team. We were going to cross the equator, back into the southern hemisphere. We all got dressed up as crazy as we could and B prepared a few snacks! We crossed the equator giving thanks to good old Neptune for keeping us safe at sea! A few pics later and we were firmly in the southern hemisphere, our home hemisphere!!
Crossing the Equator
Dan and Jenna enjoying a bowl of chips!
Pulau Sansa
That day, the wind gave us a good work over. I put two reefs in the main at around lunch time and later that afternoon we dropped the main and ran under reefed Genoa. The wind was over 30 knots at times and Shayile was being slapped and banged about quite hectically. Although on a beam reach, it was not a pleasant sail angle under the sea conditions. I was becoming quite frustrated as it got steadily worse by the day. We rounded the south east point of the island of Pulau Lingga and made our way down towards its lee. Up ahead on the rocks, I picked out a boat, a large fishing boat rather close to the rocks. As we got closer, we realised it was wrecked on the point of Lingga and could not have happened more than 3 days back. It was still in perfect condition, but well stranded on the jaggered rocks. A few small fishing boats were close by and men were busy on board the fishing boat obviously retrieving what they could. We worked our way into one of the southern bays and found a protected spot up against the reef of a small island called Palau Sansa. We dropped anchor, extremely happy to be out of the now ugly seas. Although the wind was howling all around us, we were on calm waters and protected. B and I decided we needed to rest up for a few days and let this spell of bad weather pass before moving on. That evening as I retrieved my emails from sailmail, we discovered that there was a tropical depression off NW Australia which, in my opinion, was drawing in air from above, being the area where we were. In the Java sea, some 200 miles south of our position, gale force winds were forecast and this only reconfirmed our decision to stay put for a few days. We laughed as we recalled other yachties saying to us that through Indonesia, one needed lots of diesel to motor as the winds were very light. This was the best sailing we had every experienced, although now it was becoming a bit too much to enjoy comfortably!
For 3 days, we sat it out behind the island of Pulau Sansa and waited for the weather to, hopefully, improve. It was comfortable enough at anchor and we tucked into school work. Both Daniel and Jenna had developed into good readers. Over the past month, Daniel had started to read books that we deemed advanced for his grade. Soon he was enquiring about the Harry Potter books but we felt he was not quite ready; or so we thought. One day he picked up the 1st book and put his nose into it! Shayile could have run aground and Daniel would not have budged from Harry Potter! He was addicted and kept myself and B up to date on every Harry Potter move! We were ecstatic to see him reading and I even questioned B on whether he REALLY is understanding and absorbing the contents! I could not have been more wrong as he repeated page by page to us on the adventures of young Harry! It was then that B and I looked at each other and realised we had to lift the quality of books he required! Not to be out done, Jenna tucked into Enid Blyton short story books as well. B and I proudly looked on as every morning and evening, Daniel and Jenna would be on their beds reading away silently. We also got through a lot of school work and, again, we marveled at how easily they were grasping school work. It is always an issue each day as we prepare for school with lots of moaning and groaning, but eventually everyone is head down in work! At night time, we played cards with Rummy our favorite. There were family movie nights with a DVD played and popcorn eaten out of bowls! I will look back on these times with fondness, knowing that I was spending quality time with my family.
Fishermen on Shayile (note Jenna getting the hug!)
Fishermen tied up alongside Shayile
By day 3, B and I had rested and were now ready to take on the next leg. The weather had not improved but we were ready for the next leg. The tropical depression off NW Australia was now classified as a cyclone and given it customary name - Cyclone Nicolas! At 4.30pm on the 11th February we lifted the anchor and left the cosy protection of Pulau Sansa, on route for Pulau Bangka. This leg was an over night run of some 100 miles. The bad news was there was no moon light at all. It was pitch black and we could not see the horizon. With no stars, no moon, night legs are not too pleasant! We had no sooner left the protection of Sansa when the wind picked up, and the sea welcomed us back out with a nasty, choppy, beam on swell. Then the "issues" began. I went to turn on the AIS system and no luck! There was an electrical fault somewhere. Not to worry, as we still had radar for the night run. Well, that too would not work, the first time ever! We were on a night passage in a shipping area, with no AIS or radar. I was furious and frankly, quite depressed! Then all the cabin lights went out!
(B : NOTE: Rob went completely white at this point! I pointed out that they were working until he jiggled something, he jiggled again and they came back on and some of his colour returned Personally , I think he breaks stuff just to get out of doing household chores and school! ) Well, nothing too serious, and I managed to fix most of them over time, but enough to worry me about how Shayile would handle the next 8 months as we cruised over the top of Papua New Guinea. First up, the AIS system, then the radar, and then the lights! I tried filming the turbulent seas but, on replay, it did not look that bad. Video just did the bad seas and swells no justice! Fortunately I managed to get the radar operational late that night and just as well. Tugs with huge barges passed us throughout the night. Looking back it was perhaps one of our worst night passages! It was pitch dark with no moon and we were on a rollercoaster ride. To add insult to injury, the water maker started to leak! (The good news was it was working!!!) We both got very little sleep that night as Shayile banged and crashed her way through waves. We were well reefed in and still sailing at 8 - 9 knots! What a night! As morning arrived, we decided to head for a large bay on the northern coast of Pulau Bangka. It looked as though we could seek some protection and so altered course for the bay. With the winds blowing 30 knots, we edged our way into the bay and made our way across to what we thought would be the protected spot. Much to our disappointment, we realised we had made a mistake. There was absolutely no protection, it was very shallow and if we stayed, it would be a disaster night of no sleep again. Quickly we made up our minds and turned Shayile around. We needed to get to the east coast of Pulau Bangka where there was a better chance of shelter from the sea and wind. Tired, we fought our way out of the bay, through some of the biggest swells and waves experienced on Shayile. Beating into the sea and wind, water was engulfing the decks of Shayile and occasional swells run over our front windows. Another exhilarating ride! Once out, we headed east towards our initially chosen anchorage.
Daniel & his Harry Potter book!
Fishermen on boat alongside Shayile
Pulau Bangka
8 hours later, we rounded a small point and noticed a number of local fishing boats tucked up in the lee of a well protected bay. As we entered the bay, the wave action decreased and it became quite calm, however the wind kept up its strength. We dropped anchor in 5 meters of water with fishing boats all around us. It was just a matter of time before the tired crew of Shayile had visitors. True to form, they pulled up along side. We managed to tie fenders up as the crew on the fishing boat threw us a line and tied themselves to Shayile. 4 fishermen climbed aboard and we were soon joined by 2 kids and a few more fishermen. Our came the trusty Lonely Planet" book with a few Indo / English translations and the conversations began. It was mostly centered around "where are you from" and "what is your name" and drifted into more complicated discussions like "are you married". Obviously these gatherings could not be conversationally sustained for very long, but these guys had staying power and even if totally ignored, they just enjoyed being on Shayile and socialising with foreigners! When we had had enough, we started to yawn and expressed a tired / have to go to bed manner. An hour later and they would leave, happily waving as they went. Although we had many of these "social gatherings", some back to back, it was part of the experience and pleasant enough. On quite a few occasions, we were rewarded with fish by the fishermen. Nothing big, but enough small fish to prepare a hearty meal. I even got busy one night and prepared a fish dish for the family! They all loved it!
I can cook!!! Local fishermen's home made spear gun
Again we sat it out for 4 days, involving ourselves in school work, reading, DVD's, cleaning, cooking, baking and minor boat maintenance. Between visitors, we accomplished a lot of school work and charged the bodies batteries for the next leg. Although we did go ashore, there really was not a lot to see. With no drastic weather improvement on the horizon, we knew we would just have to bite the bullet and press on to our next destination, Pulau Belitung. On the 15th February, we upper the anchor and headed off in a south easterly direction towards Pulau Belitung, some 140 miles away. This would involve another overnight passage.
Pulau Belitung
We were no sooner out of the protection of the bay when we entered the wind and wave zone. This passage was another killer on morale, the physical and mental! We crashed and banged our way in rough, messy seas with their steep, short waves. The wind maintained its 20 - 30 knots and we had to hang on as Shayile shuddered and slammed over the seas! Again to remember, nothing bad about 20 - 30 knots of wind, infact it's great sailing! But with the sea conditions as they were, it was awful! Most catamarans have an escape hatch in the salon so that, in the even of a capsize, one can escape. Well, with all the banging and slapping under Shayile, the sea had smashed out rivets holding the latches in place. These were broken by the force of the water from below and water began to squirt in through the now leaking escape hatch. B managed to temporary fix the latch with her kitchen implements but we did have to bail every half hour or so to keep water from entering the salon. I hardly slept the whole night but just dozed off when I had the chance. Even B who normally sleeps quite easily, really battled to get a bit of rest that night. As per the previous 30 months, the kids slept through the "gun shots" going off next to their heads!! Next morning we rounded the north east tip of Belitung and headed down the coast. Unfortunately there were just no protected anchorage on offer so we headed out to an island some 3 miles off shore. From the charts, it looked like we could get a bit of protection. Closing in on it, we could see many fishing boats anchored up on the SE coast. Our spirits soared with the thought of a good nights sleep! I maneuvered Shayile around the southern tip of the island and began the beat up to where we could see the fishing boats anchored some 3 miles ahead. Soon reefs showed up around us and the current increased. We were now into 2 to 3 knots of current, headwinds, reefs and motoring hard. Now, time for Murphy to make another one of his appearances! The starboard engine began to overheat! With no alternative, I turned it off and we crept on up the channel on one engine! At times we were making 1 knot of speed over the ground, battling into the conditions. An hour later, we crawled into the area where the fishing boats were anchored, only to discover there was not very much protection at all. Too exhausted to now go looking for another spot to anchor, we dropped the pick! It was three o'clock in the afternoon and we just wanted to relax. But not before "visiting hours"! Soon we had the guests pulling up along side. Again the whole procedure and social etiquette required, before I managed to persuade them to let us rest. Looking forward to a good nights sleep, B stated the now obvious, we were in a washing machine at anchor! It was a long night, perhaps our worst ever at anchorage with Shayile see-sawing and rolling with the waves and sleep difficult to come by. Well, at least we were anchored and able to put our heads down!!
Jenna waits for the milk as a fisherman cuts a coconut
Fending the fishing boat off Shayile
Next morning early, we were up and hauling anchor! With the wind still pumping through, we decided to head further down the coast and seek protection on the SE coast of Belitung. As we sailed down the coast, I looked up a possible anchorage on Maxsea and identified a possibility off a smaller island off Belitung. 3 hours later we edged our way into a bay, protected by 3 small islands, reefs and sand banks. It was perfect for a rest up. We anchored and after a quick "boat sort and tidy", myself and B went off to sleep!!
We were determined to sit out the weather good and proper this time and that was exactly what we did! I kept pulling daily weather reports on the area and the state of Cyclone Nicolas off NW Australia. For 5 days we enjoyed the anchorage and what it had to offer. We caught the tides just right and with exceptionally large tidal ranges, the reefs were well exposed at low tide. We all climbed into the ducky and went out to the reefs. It was a wonderful experience as we walked the reef, looking for life. Much to our surprise, we discovered a whole world on these reefs that we, I have to be honest, it surprised us all. The kids found large star fish as we arrived and as we began exploring the rocks and pools, more marine life emerged. The best were the Octopus, small, but active. We spent a long time watching these fluid creatures as they made their way amongst the rocks looking for prey, changing shape and colour as they went about their business. We found large live Cowry shells. I was amazed at the mantels that coated the stunning shells, camouflaging the beauty beneath. As we touched them, the mantel withdrew into the inner shell, exposing the brilliance of the outer shell. Quite amazing! We visited the reef each afternoon, exploring all we could before the tide chased us back to Shayile. We also visited a small island used by fishermen during the day. It was the first time in SE Asia that I had seen folks fishing with fishing rods, and they were women!
Dan, Rob & Jenna on one of the small islands
B & Dan
Again we spent many hours together as a family, schooling, painting, playing cards and watching DVD's. The kids tucked into their books and Daniel moved on to his 2nd Harry Potter book! He also spent time playing his favorite computer game "Age of Mythology" and, if not limited each day, would spend 25 hours on the game! He now knows more about Greek mythology than both B and I! B and I also spent many hours reading. I read "Shantaram" by Gregory David Roberts, all about a New Zealand guy who had escaped from prison in Australia and fled to India. It was his story about his life and adventures in Calcutta and a "must read" by all. Whether all non fiction, is debatable but makes for excellent reading. I also read "The bravest man" by William Tuohy. A brilliant book about Richard O'Kane and the amazing submarine adventures of the USS Tang during the 2nd World War.
For 5 days, we enjoyed the peace and quiet of this secluded anchorage, only having to entertain the local fishermen on 2 occasions! I had regained my sense of humour failure of the last 3 legs of our trip. I must say, I sank quite low with the bad weather, the breakages on board Shayile and lack of fishing and diving! However spirits are returned with rest, sharing of plans and goals set on destinations and plans for the future. As the weather man informed us that the cyclone Nicolas was no more and that some normality was returning to the regions weather, we decided to set off again on our next leg to Borneo. Borneo is divided between Malaysia and Indonesia with Malaysia occupying about a third of the island, mostly to the northern and eastern parts of Borneo. The Indonesian part is known as Kalimantan. We were on our way to Kalimantan and our destination was the river town of Kumai which lies on the Kumai river. The distance across is about 200 miles and we would need to cross the shipping lane again. On the 22nd February 2008, we upped anchor and headed due east towards Kalimantan.
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