Yacht Shayile and a
FAMILY SAILING ADVENTURE
ROB & BELINDA
DANIEL & JENNA
Our Home - Earth
For those of you that read these words, there is a special request. We live on a rock floating in this immense galaxy. That 3rd rock from the sun!
Slowly but surely this rock is being destroyed, lived on by too many and be devoured by human greed and expansion. Besides us humans, no other creature that shares this special space with us, has the ability to voice their concerns and put their case across. They are not able to protect what is also theirs, they are not able to vote, or halt human expansion. Humans are all powerful, top of the food chain and it will be our downfall.
Nature can live without humans, humans cannot live without nature.
Do all you can to protect our fragile rock and support those worthy causes that work relentlessly towards protecting what we have left, especially those that speak for the unspoken.
We share this space with other creatures and animals, and it is this we call earth; that is our only home. Lets work together to protect it and look after it!
With this, I salute Greenpeace and those organisations that work tirelessly towards the protection of mother earth and urge all of you to do the same, no matter how small your contribution.
Many ask what can a mere voice in the dark achieve? To this I say, influence your horizon. Do everything you can to change, put right, or speak up against those that are contributing towards the destruction of mother earth, no matter how small you perceive that voice in the dark to be. Believe me, this is where worthy pilgrimages start; at home with you.
Foreword
Daniel was 6 years old and Jenna just 4 ½ when we embarked on this journey of a lifetime. During this time, Daniel lost touch with most of his school mates and Jenna knew only Shayile as her home.
This book was written for them. As our childhood memories fade, these words and pictures will keep the adventure alive in their spirits so that one day they to may decide to step out of their comfort zones and venture into the unknown.
As this book progressed, we realized it may appeal to a slightly larger audience and with the encouragement of friends and family, we have done just that.
Enjoy our adventure and perhaps it may inspire you to take that huge leap. Step out of your comfort zone and embark on a personal quest. Be it sailing, over land travel, living in another country or riding motor bikes across unexplored terrain. Do it!
Remember, “When your life flashes before you, make sure its worth watching”
Dan & I about to head off!
Introduction
I have always been bit of a “wanna be adventurer” Certainly not a Ranolf Fiennes, or Mike Horn, but someone who likes to do things and experience life. I’m always up for a challenge!
When the opportunity came where we as a family could embark on a journey of a life time, I did not hesitate to do it! My business was sold and I now had that chance in life to take a break! What better way to do it, then go cruising with the family.
My business was extremely demanding and kept me away from home for weeks on end. I missed out on many of those experiences most parents have with their children as they develop through their early childhood years. For me, this now was the time to “stop the bus” and spend time together.
The planning for this family sailing adventure had begun.
Buying Shayile
So here begins the real adventure.
I’ve just spent the last 18 years working. 8 years for a salary and 10 years in my own business! Hard work does pay off and with the sale of my business (B called it “the other woman in my life”) we were now in a position to do something for ourselves.
Besides which, I also needed a break from a busy and demanding life behind the wheel of an extremely stressful business! I needed a “mid life sabbatical” where I could spend time with the family 24/7. Over the past 8 years, time together with them was scarce and a large part of my life was spent travelling. I took this mid life sabbatical opportunity with both hands!
Many ask, “So why pack it all in and go sailing?” The simple answer from me – You only get one life, used it, enjoy it, experience all you can!
If the opportunity presents itself to do something you really want to do, then do it! You may never get the chance to do it again. I really needed to do this and I was given the opportunity.
Whether it’s a sailing adventure, overland trip, climbing a mountain or whatever blows your hair back, it’s these types of adventures that make life interesting and moulds ones personality.
For us, the vehicle was a yacht and the destination was the oceans and lands between them.
With B buying in to the “adventure”, we now needed a yacht! I began doing some homework into the kind of yacht we needed. I already had a small 22ft monohull which was moored in Durban harbour. This was a party boat, nothing more, and my knowledge of the yacht and of sailing in general was extremely limited. I really had no idea and could hardly navigate my way out of the yacht club! Wednesday night fun racing, and having mates around with cooler boxes filled with beer was my idea of sailing! Frankly I was not a sailor.
Now, with this dream starting to take shape, this “non sailor” needed to purchase a yacht to take his family safely to sea. I also needed to learn how to drive the thing and, worse still, try fix it.
I spent many a day with yacht brokers, walking the yacht basins in Durban and Cape Town in search of a suitable yacht. Each time I found a yacht I fancied, I would drag B down to see it. It was always the same response from her. “Nice, but….. not too sure about this… too small….. what about the kids….. No, not for me!”
Then one day as I was stepping off a yacht we had just viewed, the broker asked me if I had ever considered a catamaran. With my vast knowledge of yachts (yea right!) and the belief that catamarans turn over and cannot right themselves, I naturally replied that I had not. Was a catamaran a real yacht that could sail around the world!
The yacht broker took me to one moored up in Durban and convinced me to put my head in the door. With reluctance, I did, and my initial response was, “Wow, so much room!”
That afternoon I called B and told her to come see a yacht that might appeal to her. As she stepped on board the catamaran and had a look around, her reply was firm, “You want the kids and I to go sailing with you, then it must be on one of these!”
With my, or should I say, B’s mind made up, I them embarked on a quest to find the best, and safest catamaran for the money I had.
With many months of homework and doing what research I could, I set my sites on a Maxim 380 Catamaran. Built in Durban and extremely strong, general perception was if you can afford it, go for it. I really wanted one, but new, they were expensive and frankly, outside of my price range.
Then one day I received a call from B’s brother Kevin. He told me that a friend of a friend had just spent 8 months sailing the east coat of Africa and were now back in Botswana. Their yacht was being delivered back to Durban and that it was for sale. (At this stage it was still in Kenya)
More importantly, it was a catamaran. I phoned the owner in Botswana and asked him what kind of yacht it was. The reply was what I wanted – a Maxim. The price was right, it had cruised for 8 months with a family on board, and it had everything we required. I committed on the phone and, besides checking it out myself, made the decision to buy her.
3 months later, Shayile was ours. She was stunning and I really was extremely proud of her. I now just needed to know what all the switches and screens did and how to sail her!
Shayile getting a "facelift in the Maxim Factory in Durban
Learning the ropes
Once Shayile was ours, most of our weekends were now spent on her and, if I had a gap in my working day, I would head on down to the yacht club and tinker around her, learning and getting a better understanding of her equipment. I quickly completed my DOC (Durban Operating Certificate) which allowed me to enter and exit the Durban harbour on a yacht.
Each weekend, the family would head down to the yacht club and board Shayile. We would motor out to do a bit of sailing in the harbour and off shore, still very new to the sailing experience and just keen to feel what this sailing game was really about!
Most afternoons were spent anchored up at Vetches Pier, just ourside Durbans harbour, enjoying a bit of snorkeling and relaxing. It was all fun, with no real maintenance or long list of chores to get through!
In order to leave South African waters by yacht, sailors need a Coastal Skipper’s ticket. Not having the time to do a full time skippers course through one of the sailing schools in Durban, I acquired the services of Meme Grant, an experienced sailor and sailing instructor. Meme is a larger than life character and is passionate about sailing. Both Meme and her husband Mike, a marine engineer, lived on a yacht in Durban harbour.
The following year or so, we spent a lot of time together on Shayile and most of my grounding in sailing was received from Meme and Mike. We would spend many weekends together with me learning the ropes. I was like a sponge and wanted to know everything I could about Shayile and sailing!
One weekend we did a run up to Richards Bay and back with Mike giving me as much training on the boats equipment, engines and general boat maintenance as possible. Meme had me hard at work on charts and navigation. It was hard work and I needed to absorb it all and really understand it in order to be self sufficient at sea. My grounding on sailing all came from Meme and Mike.
Gaining experience - The Vasco de Garma yacht Race
A fellow yachtie, Norman Kloppers, who also owned a Maxim, spent many days with us on Shayile. His yacht, Regal, was moored up alongside Shayile in the Durban yacht basin. Norman, Stormy Norm as he was known, was a colourful character in the Durban yachting fraternity! We got to spend a lot of time with Norman and spent many late night hours talking about cruising the world and other sailing stories.
One day Norman suggested we give the Vasco de Gama yacht race a go. As I needed the sea miles and experience at sea, he concluded that by entering this race, I could gain this required experience. Perhaps one of the premier sailing events on the SA calendar, the Vasco de Gama is held annually. It starts in Maputo (Mozambique) and ends in Durban some 3 days later. I jumped to the challenge and we enter Shayile!
Within a few weeks I began to assemble a crew for this adventure. Norman would be the qualified skipper on board. I was to be his able assistant and “skipper in training”. A very good mate of mind, Dave Clements, jumped at the opportunity and B would be there to learn the ropes and take charge in the galley! We had a crew for what would amount to a very exciting and challenging adventure!
A few weeks before departure, we got a new crew member. Bruce Scott joined us. Bruce was on another yacht destined for the Vasco, but unfortunately it pulled out leaving Bruce “boatless!” Keen for an opportunity to race he made contact with me and I accepted him as a crew member on Shayile. Bruce, and his wife Leigh, would go on to become good friends of ours.
As Daniel and Jenna would not join us on this trip, B decided to fly up to Maputo and join us for the race back to Durban.
With the motley crew assembled at the Royal Natal Yacht Club, (all except Dave) we prepared Shayile for departure, loading her with food and provisions for the trip. The plan was to depart in the early hours of the morning but by 11pm that night, Dave was still nowhere to be seen. Resigning ourselves to one less crew member, we went off to bed.
I woke up at about 1am with someone shuffling about in the cockpit. Dave had finally found Shayile. Although 47 sheets to the wind and still looking for a party, Dave was all set to sail!
At 5am that morning, we left the Durban marina and set sail for Maputo. Dave slept most of the day nursing a hangover from hell, whilst we enjoyed a leisurely day sail up the Kwa Zulu Natal coast. Bruce caught a huge Mackerel just south of Richards Bay and we feasted on fresh fish that evening. All was going according to plan.
Bruce and his Cuta
At about 11pm that night, as we approached Cape Vidal, a dropping barometer and a puff of wind out of the west hinted of an impending front. Having never been in adverse weather before, I began to get a bit apprehensive as the wind picked up rather quickly, and the seas began to built up. A front was about to hit and we quickly prepared Shayile as best we could.
Within half an hour we were in a 35knot buster! With our main sail down and reduced head sail, we held our course as the weather closed in around us. It grew increasingly darker and the sea picked up. Then it rained, and then it bucketed down! Waves began to roll at us from behind and the wind speed indicator touched 40knots, then 45knots. As the wind increased, so did my nerves as Shayile was tossed about and shuddered as wave after wave struck from behind and past under her bows! I had never experienced such a noise as wave after wave slammed into Shayile, ricocheting off her hulls! The only ones on board that appeared vaguely calm, were Norman and Dave. Norman, in full foul weather gear, sat at the helm, arms folded and watched the instruments without saying a word. Dave – well he was asleep!
For 6 hours we rode out the storm! I spent the better part of that night looking out into the blackness as wave after wave slammed into Shayile. I also glued myself to the radar screen watching this huge “cloud” of a storm engulfing us, and not leaving us alone! Bruce was outside sick as a dog whilst Norman still did not say a word! It was not a pleasant experience and my first real encounter with a storm at sea.
As morning approached, the wind subsided but the seas were huge! We sailed on towards Maputo, all extremely thankful the weather had passed!
It took us 2 ½ days to get to Maputo and we were all extremely grateful to be tied up at the marina. As more yachts came in for the start of the race, the crews all described their horrible ordeal that night at sea!
Shayile moored up safely in Maputo
Not a day later another front hit, perhaps worse still than the one we encountered and we felt for every yacht that limped into Maputo.
B had flown in and met us at the marina, thankful she was not on that trip up. I was relieved, as had she experienced the front, it may well have put a whole new meaning to our intended blue water cruise. “Me or the boat” type situation may have developed!
On the morning of the race the wind was fresh out of the west and we crossed the line at about 10am, on route to Durban, praying for no more fronts. As we rounded Inhaca Island that evening, the wind died and Shayile wallowed on towards Durban. We pulled every trick we could, eking out every part knot to get her mobile. The idea was to tack down the coast, hogging the coast, trying to work the onshore / offshore breezes. At about 1am, quiet tired, I went off to bed.
I awoke at 6am and stepping out into the cockpit. To my dismay, I could not see land! In the early hours of the morning we had gone deep, looking for the Mozambique current. We never really found it and then the wind died altogether. For 6 hours we floated and rolled about hoping for wind. It never came. With everyone very frustrated, and none of us real racers, we started the engines, radioed in that we were retiring from the race, and motored homeward to Durban.
That was our Vasco de Gama race done and maybe the first real indication that we were cruisers, not racers!
All in all, a very worthwhile experience for all of us, encountering some hard sailing on the SA coastline!
More experience required!
With my confidence and experience mounting, I again decided to tackle the run to Richards Bay. Without the assistance of Meme or Mike, Norman Kloppers again joined us on Shayile for the trip to Richards Bay and back. I still needed all the experience I could get as I had only done the trip once before with Meme.
On the evening of our planned departure, I arrived at Shayile and prepared a few things whilst B and the kids drove down from our house in Kloof.
Pulling up at the first set of traffic light in Durban, with Daniel and Jenna strapped to their car seats, B experienced first hand a “smash and grab”! A young street kid smashed the passenger window to our vehicle and lunged for B’s bag which was tucked under the front seat. Within seconds, he had the bag and was gone!! Not a pleasant experience for Belinda and the kids!
Although shaken by the smash and grab, we set sail for Richard Bay later that evening. The trip up was uneventful and after spending Saturday night in Richards Bay, we set sail again early on Sunday morning destined for Durban. The wind was out of the NE and most of the morning was spent motor sailing towards Durban. As the wind picked up to about 8 knots we put up our asymmetric sail (type of spinnaker) and sat back, enjoying a pleasant sail back towards Durban! The wind slowly increased in speed and soon it was touching 15knots. Shayile was flying and one can only describe it as exhilarating sailing! Almost unbeknown to us, in a subtle kind of way, the sea also picked up as we skimmed across the water towards Durban.
“Norman, I think we should take the sail down” I said as the wind speed indicator increased. “No Rob, it’s ok. We will be in Durban in no time!” was Normans confident answer back to me.
Feeling a bit unsure of the situation and as the wind picked up further, I asked Norman again about possibly dropping the asymmetric sail. Third time lucky and this time I was a bit more assertive as my concern mounted with the wind speed increasing and the sea getting bigger. Shayile was dipping her bows too low for my liking. With that, Norman and B went up front to bring down the asymmetric, and this is when the fun really started! It would not come down! Even with me releasing the sheet and both B and Norman heaving on the sock, trying to smother and bring down the sail, it would not flinch! With the wind now up and gusting 20 - 25 knots, we were in a spot of trouble. We tried everything we could, and at one stage both B and Norman were picked up and flung across the trampolines with B landing unceremoniously on top of Norman! We even tried to turn Shayile around into wind and then more disaster as the sail sheet and rope to bring down the sock got hectically entangled with each other. We were now in a desperate state with winds increasing and the sea looking ever menacing as we raced on under asymmetric sail. The kids were ordered to stay inside as we thought our way out of the mess. B got to work slowly unwinding the mangle of ropes and thankfully she managed to untangle them. Then it was up front again and we gave it another go. No luck! With the wind now over 25 knots, Shayile was not happy. As I steered her on, I was at a complete loss as what to do! We were all doing our best but lack of experience was against us.
As luck would have it, Shayile went deep into a trough and there was a brief reduction in the wind speed. As we were picked up by the next swell and the wind caught, the sail filled with wind and then literally exploded! Bits of sail and drifted off with the wind before ditching itself in the sea. “She’s blown” I shouted and ran to the galley where I grabbed a huge knife and proceeded to cut what was left of the sail, releasing it from Shayile. We put up a small piece of head sail and returned to the cockpit, thankful that the ordeal was over.
As we fought the swells on our way back to Durban, I had to keep reminding B, “Do not look behind us”. The swells were huge and as we entered a trough, it felt as though we would be engulfed by the following seas! There is nothing more intimidating than looking behind the yacht and seeing this huge wave towering high above Shayile. We all just looked ahead and welcomed the night lights of Durban as we approached the harbour entrance. With a big following sea and swells lifting us up and pitching Shayile forward, it was scary just entering the harbour. The mouth to the harbour now seemed so narrow as we surfed our way in!
Within ½ hour we were moored up, thankful the ordeal was over and not too concerned that we had just lost a sail worth R15 000!
Another lesson was learned and the cost of the sail – school fees! Over the next few months, we continued to spend as much time on Shayile as possible, understanding and learning about her every part.
The months trickled on. With departure date looming, we needed to prepare for the big departure.