Thursday 22 May 2008

Bali & Mt Ijen (Java)

Java - Mount Ijen

I phoned Nono, our guide from Menjangan, and planned our trip to Java. With all arrangements confirmed, we packed our bags, put Shayile back onto a mooring, hired a car and set off for Teluk Gilimanuk. It was a long drive up through central Bali and then along the north western coastline towards Gilimanuk but it was enjoyable and interesting to see another part of Bali. We passed through many rice fields, local villages and tourist centers on route, and after 4 hours of driving, we pulled into the Marine Park at where Nono was waiting for us. After a quick lunch, we changed vehicles and climbed into a mini bus organised by Nono for the trip. With a driver taking control of our safety, we set off for the ferry terminal at Gilimanuk. Just outside the terminal, we were stopped by police and we noticed money changing hands. Then into the terminal where payment for the trip was made. On the ferry, more money exchanged hands once the vehicle was parked. B and I just looked at us in amazement! It was an old rust bucket of a ferry but did the required task and we crossed the Selat Bali straits to the town of Ketapang on Java mainland. Here we got back into the mini bus and headed off through the town and out into the country side.


Local village on Java, on way to Mt Ijen

We soon began the slow climb up into the surrounding hills. The scenery changed from paddy fields to farm lands where cloves trees were grown. Then into the coffee plantations, much to the delight of B and I!! Climbing higher we entered the rain forests and soon emerged on the top of the volcanic mountainous range. Now descending, we passed through cabbage and other vegetable fields. Clearly mass deforestation had taken place years before and it was now replaced by hills of cabbages! We soon reached our home stay for the night where we checked in. It appeared to be an old military base or a company compound of sort, perhaps set up when logging was an industry in the area. It was a tired place but what does one expect in this mountainous region of Java. We upgraded our room to "VIP status" and settled in, but not before our compulsory cup of Indonesia coffee!

Next morning we were up early and on our way up to Mount Ijen.. Arriving at the base camp, we parked and walked across to a small Warung where we tucked into a bit of breakfast, comprising of noodles and eggs. Nono gave us a quick talk about Mt Ijen and what to expect as we walked up to the crater rim. At about 9am, the Bentley family, along with Nono, set off up Mt Ijen. Within 500 meters, we came across the first guy carrying sulphur down from the top. Between a strong flattened bamboo pole was 2 woven grass baskets. With the bamboo pole slung over one shoulder and supported by his upper back muscles, large quantities of sulphur chunks were in the baskets and on their way down Mt Ijen. Nono informed us that they weighed upward of 70kg's with some guys carrying up to 90kg's! As we walked on, B and I came to the conclusion that this was a slight exaggeration. Carrying a 20kg back pack whilst hiking can be strenuous, perhaps the weight was between 40 and 60kg's. More guys passed us and along the path we soon found abandoned baskets of sulphur. Nono informed us that the "mules" carry 2 loads at a time. 2 empty baskets are carried to the top and loaded. Then one is carried for an hour or so, and then put down. Back they go for the second basket and it is then carried to where the first one was left. This procedure takes place all the way down to the bottom. Coming across one load lying alongside the path, we decided to try pick it up. With difficulty I lifted it off the ground and, turning to B, explained that perhaps it was a little more than 50kg's! After about 2 hours, we reached the weigh-in station some 2km from the base station. Here we watched as guys carrying the sulphur on their backs, placed the loads on a scale where it was weighed. To our amazement, the loads varied in weight from 70kg's to 85kg's! We could not believe that loads like this were carried down the volcano by men! At the weigh in station, we bought packs of cigarettes. These were to be handed out to guys on their way down with loads, especially if a photo was required of them. Yes, they carry the loads and smoke like chimneys!


Daniel offering a cigarette to a sulphur carrier 

On we went higher up towards the crater rim. Soon we entered cloud and concerned ourselves with the possibility of not being able to see into the crater on reaching the top. An hour later we reached the top and stood on the crater rim. It was a barren landscape; very rocky with volcanic stones and pebbles. Looking into the crater rim, we saw a huge lake of green coloured water, perhaps with a hint of yellow to its color. Billowing out of the crater was foul smelling smoke, an egg like smell from the sulphur.    


The family on the crater rim of Mt Ijen

At this stage we were still wondering where the sulphur was mined and Nono explained that it was mined down in the crater rim and that we might see it as we traversed the crater rim. It was not easy going as the smoke was overpowering at times. We reached the point where the human mules were emerging from the crater itself. After some discussions with one of the guys carrying sulphur, Nono told me that the guy would take me down into the rater to the mine itself. Not to be outdone, Daniel asked if he could join us, or should I say, told us he would join us! Nono, B and Jenna remained up top whilst Daniel and I, along with our guide, descended into the crater. It was a tricky climb down over boulders and slippery stones under foot. To complicate matters was the foul, choking, smelly smoke that consumed us every 15 minutes or so. It was like walking in the mist, but not nearly as pleasant! We wrapped our shirts around our faces and kept going! On we went, down into the crater, as human pack mules loaded with sulphur slowly made their way out. We then appreciated the difficulty of the climb out. Once at the rater rim it was down hill and I still am not sure which part was the more difficult; going up or down! About 40 minutes later we were at the bottom and emerged at the mines. The sloping crater wall fell into the lake. On the slopes, fissures billowed plumes of smoke and from these fissures, molten sulphur has solidified and was now being chipped and prized away using huge steel rods. The whole area was coated in a thick layer of yellow sulphur dust. Each of the fissure was "tapped" by a pipe, directing the smoke and molten sulphur as required. The sulphur itself is quite soft and breaks up quite easily. Once chunks have been broken off, they are loaded into the woven baskets.



Loading baskets with sulphur

           

                                                                        Daniel in the mine

Once loaded to the required capacity, it is lifted up onto the mule’s backs and away it goes on its 4km journey down to the base camp. It is weighed twice, once on the volcano and the other at base camp. The human mules are then paid 50 cents, (S.African) 500 rupee per kg! Carrying 2 loads at an average of 150kg's per load, these guys get paid R75 a day. (USD10) Doing it every day and perhaps a bit of money can be made but with loads this heavy and the demand on the legs, back and shoulders severe, only 2 or 3 trips can be done each week. That amounts to R900 a month!! Worse still, the sulphur goes to pharmaceutical companies, and we all know the money these guys make, regardless of the product! The toll on the body must be devastating, with the knees taking a pounding on the way down.


Men at work in the crater

We spent half an hour in the crater watching the guys at work and appreciating the appalling conditions they put up with in order to make a living! Daniel was even given a chunk of sulphur as a memento. As mentioned, the whole mine area is covered by a yellow film of sulphur dust and choking in sulphur fumes and soon it was time for us to head on out. The climb out was tiring as we made our way up over boulders and loose gravel, every so often being overcome with fumes billowing out below us. We emerged at the crater rim relieved to be out of the mine pit, but fascinated by what we had seen and experienced. B and Jenna had walked back to the beginning of the descent from the crater rime in order to escape the intoxicating fumes. B was very relieved to see us, and Daniel went on to explain to his mom all he had seen down at the mine. We then all turned and slowly made our way back down to the weigh in station, and from there we slowly ambled on down Mt Ijen as human pack mules passed us on their way down.


Carrying the sulphur out of the crater

At the bottom, now back in the parking lot, we sat around and chatted amongst ourselves, still on a high from having experienced something so special. I turned to Daniel and Jenna and commented on how privileged they were to see such a sight. How many adults, never mind children of their age, would experience such an adventure up and into a live volcano. Further more which children would experience what they have been through in the past 3 years. Sailing the seas, visiting countries and islands not seen by many, trekked in the mountains of Thailand, walked in the jungles of Borneo and seen Orangutans in the wild, snorkeled amongst the best coral gardens in the Andaman Islands and lived in paradise on the deserted islands of Chagos, and so the discussion went on. With lunch coming up, we left Mt Ijen and drove down towards the town of Ketapang. On the way down, we stopped at a coffee plantation and picked coffee beans and hugged a coffee tree! 

Then it was off to lunch at a local Warung where we all tucked into Soto ayam, a chicken soup dish with shredded cabbage and boiled eggs! An hour later we were on the ferry and on our way back to Bali. Again the exchange of money took place no fewer than 4 times before we reached Bali. Nono very kindly took us to a residential house where we bought 3 huge pumpkins at a very reasonable price. I'm sure it was a friend of Nono and we appreciated the assistance as the whole family loves B's pumpkin soup! That afternoon we said our thanks and goodbyes to Nono. He had taken us on an adventure of a lifetime, something so unique and different in this wonderful world of ours! With that we hopped back into our car and headed off down the SW coast of Bali. As it was late in the afternoon, we decided to find a place to stay on the coast, not wanting to drive through the night on these extremely busy roads, roads that were in appalling condition and extremely dangerous with all the heavy trucks streaming in from Java. We came to the small village of Medewi where we discovered a surfing competition was happening. After a few attempts at finding a place, we were directed to a home stay, some 5 km's out of town, and surrounded by paddy fields. Now 8pm at night, we checked in and then set off in search of food. As I waited to join the main road, we witnessed a motor bike accident happen in front of our eyes! With the roads under constant construction and warnings of their "work in progress" very difficult to spot, some poor guy had driven into an area of the road that had been dug up for repairs. With the bike coming to a sudden stop, he flew through the air and landed in the bush on the side of the road! With pedestrians running from all directions, we pulled away leaving the unfortunate guy in the care of bystanders. That evening we ate at a very nice restaurant and then fell into bed, tired after a long day of walking and driving!


View from our room at Medewi



Next day, after a small breakfast, we were able to appreciate just where we were. Stretched out in front of the home stay were fields of rice. Beyond that was the ocean with some spectacular surf breaks and beaches. We all decided on a walk through the paddy fields and down to the beach. It was really interesting to walk amongst the rice fields and appreciate the labour that went into preparing the fields and growing the rice. After 3 hours of walking about and playing with the local kids, we returned to the home stay, paid the bill and set off back to Shayile.


B & Jenna with Balinese kids



Final days in Bali

With Bali having been well explored and circumnavigated by land and sea, it was now time to prepare for the next leg of our trip. Within the next 2 months we would be entering Australia and, with their strict controls on what it brought into the country, we decided to ship as much of our belongings home to South Africa as possible. We had accumulated many souvenirs and other artifacts along the way. We now needed them off Shayile and sent home. I did some enquiring into costs and soon we had a crate ready for shipment back to S.A. We filled it with all sorts, not required for the trip to Australia. Shayile must have breathed a sigh of relief as more than half a ton of "stuff" was shipped off back to South Africa! 


Jenna with local kids at Serangan

Toby and Vicky were also about to leave Bali as well and we decided to set off together sailing up to Lombok. Toby organised a meal on the shore with Wayan, Monday and those that had assisted us whilst in Serangan. A few fish were cooked, along with rice and plenty off beer. I gave the guys a bottle of rum which they consumed that night! It was no restaurant, sitting under a pondok and chatting together but the evening went off well, until we got the bill. Over R500 for 4 adults and 2 kids. Clearly we had been providing all and sundry with food, beer and entertainment! Although I have no problem with providing for the guys, they pulled the proverbial ring and we all left that night with a bad taste in our mouths. Not the way we wanted it to end but, again, a reflection of "fleece them whilst you can" attitude. I made it clear to Monday the next day that that was unacceptable. When I told him what the night had cost us, he was shocked, but with Wayan the boss, he had little else to say. That concluded all dealings with Wayan and his services in Serangan! 

With plans to depart from Bali in progress, we went out and stocked up on food and other essentials. We also hired a car for 2 days and drove out to Kuta, the tourist capital of Bali! Central Kuta was where the bomb went off a few years ago, killing scores of people, mostly Australian tourists. We visited the site of the bomb blast and  found it extremely difficult to comprehend why anyone would do such a thing in such a "neutral" area full with tourists. Its a whole understanding on its own!  In Kuta we did some last minute shopping, mostly clothes for ourselves and a McDonalds ice cream! 


Lembongan 

Back in Serangan, I did one last diesel run, filling up the Shayile's tanks and jerry cans. With no "outside assistance", this time I got the diesel at the pump advertised price, not with 500 rupee added on for "government tax" which went to the pump attendant and Monday!! With Shayile ready for departure I had one last issue to tackle. The dreaded engines!! Ever since Lovina, the starboard engine was showing signs of not being too happy. It had overheated off Lovina and there were now bubbles in the heat exchanger. Although I suspected a blown head gasket, she was still running surprisingly well and I hoped that it was perhaps something else. I dropped a note to Gary on Yacht Aquarius, asking him for his advice and possible solutions. At the time, Gary was in Australia and, on getting further advice from a marine engineer mate of his, he wrote back to me. The news was not good and he stated that it was a blown head gasket and that it needed attention before leaving Bali. He went on to say that, although running surprisingly well at the moment, it was sure to go bad, and Bali may be the last viable option to get the task done. Taking his advice, I decided to put a new head gasket on. We left the anchorage at Serangan and motored down to the harbour of Benoa where the Bali Marina was situated. I organised a mechanic to come visit Shayile and confirm the diagnosis. We motored into Bali Marina and, frankly, were appalled at what we saw. It was no marina, but a broken, badly maintained concrete walk on that supported about 30 vessels. Then the cost of 22USD a day, no water, no electricity! It was filthy dirty and, going on our previous experiences of marinas, this was not for us! The mechanic confirmed the problem, and I told him to meet us back at Serangan where we would fix the engine. He agreed and with that, having spent one night at the marina, we motored back to Serangan. Within 2 days, the engine was fixed and we were ready to leave Bali. 




Jenna with a ritual dancer

Departure from Bali

As the current down the Lombok straits are fierce, we decided to head up the coast to Labuan Amuk where we would spend the night. Then we would crawl our way north and across to Lombok.  On the 7th May 2008, we finally upped anchor and motored out of Serangan and up towards Amuk. Then the winds kicked in and the currents played havoc as we crawled our way north. At about 2pm, with the wind howling, creating a lee shore in Amuk and currents against us, we decided to turn and head for Lembongan, our old surf spot. To fight our way up the coast, and into an anchorage over rock and a lee shore, was not a sensible thing to do. We arrived in the anchorage at Lembongan, picked up a mooring buoy and settled in for a few days. 


Arriving in Lembongan

We spent the next 3 days relaxing and surfing all we could whilst a huge ground swell made the Lombok straits look rather ugly! I have never seen currents and tides react in such a way, with standing waves 3 miles out in the straits and not the place you want to spend time in! After an enjoyable 3 days, we decided it was time to move on out and make our way up to Lombok. The day before we left, we woke up to the sight of a pinisi fishing boat high on the reef at Shipwrecks surf break! It seemed he was doing his best to avoid the currents and something went wrong, putting him on the reef. Throughout the day we watched him as he made an effort to get off with the high tide, smoke billowing, as he thrust his engine in reverse and tried to dislodge the vessel. Another fishing vessel joined in and they did their best to pull the boat off the reef, however it was stuck fast and did not budge. Next morning, with the pinisi still high on the reef, we decided to head on out of Lembongan. With the sun rising, we motored out of the bay towards the straits. In the distance we could see the current as it flowed past the point. It looked like a river in full flow and I made my way towards it, hugging the coast and passing close to the stranded pinisi. Then as we crept out into the current, Shayile's bows were violently pushed out and we were in the current. The speed bled off very quickly as B sat at the computer monitoring our speed and direction, and I steered Shayile. Within a minute I called down to B saying that we were going backwards and B confirmed it!! Sure enough, we were driving forward at 8 knots but going backwards at 2 knots. It was rather scary as Shayile was dictated to by the current. I swung her around, now going with the current and we took off! Then slowly we angled Shayile back in towards Lembongan. By this time we had virtually passed the bay but slowly we made ground back in towards our anchorage. Out the current, B and I looked at each other and agreed; lets try another day. The current was just too strong! We hooked up to our old mooring buoy and thought about our next "escape" plan. Nothing beats local knowledge and I decided to dingy across to a local charter catamaran anchored close by. On board I met Roberto, the owner and skipper. We caught up on sailing stories and the like and then discussed the currents. Now, in my time at Bali and other current effected areas in the region, I must have asked no fewer than 10 people on how best to tackle the currents, and I must have received 6 different answers! In this area, the tides and currents do not coincide. Moon phases dictate the direction and state of the currents. Another very interesting discovery from Roberto, was that the Pacific Ocean to the north, is 15 cm higher than the Indian Ocean to the south, as earlier mentioned. However with moon phases and tide intervention, the currents can moderate or intensify. It's catching the right time that is crucial. Further to this there is a small counter current running up the Bali coast, making a northerly path a little easier. We gathered what info we could and decided to leave much later, hopefully making the journey a bit easier.


B’s Best Beer Brew!!



Next day we were up and away at about 10pm, not 6pm like the previous day. This time the poor pinisi was being pulled off the reef by a tug! Although we experienced the strong currents for the first hour or so, our speed and direction improved and soon the current was down to 1.5 knots against us. With time now against us, we could not make to Lombok, and headed towards Bali and Labuan Amuk where we would spend the night. True to form, the wind intensified and sailing into the huge bay, we again realised we had problems. We were on a frightening lee shore! Just next to Amuk is a ferry terminal situated in a very small bay. I decided there must be protection in there and we headed across to Teluk Padang. As we entered, it seemed ok, but was very small! With no obvious anchorage, I approached the beach whilst B tried to shout across to the ferry dock workers where best to anchor. Just then the depth gauge went from 14 meters to 9 meters to 5 meters to 1.1 meter, all in about 8 seconds! I swung Shayile about expecting us to run aground, but she made it! Must have been all the "stuff" we shipped home that enabled her to avoid running aground! The dock workers shouted back that this was no good and that we needed to go back to Labuan Amuk! Out we motored and back to Amuk, this time seeking a new anchorage in the western part of the bay. Fortunately we found a vacant buoy and grabbed it. With the wind pumping in, I set an anchor alarm and we settled in for a rather rough night! 



Finally we leave Bali

We just could not shake Bali! But with a good start up the coast, we motored out of Amuk and hugged the coast as we headed north. As we put the sails up and motor sailed, we soon come into contact with a flotilla of small sailing boats. They are actually fishing boats, all with wonderfully coloured sails and we all heading in the same direction. There must have been 200 - 300 of these small sailing vessels with, usually, one occupant! It was a spectacular sight as we made our way through the flotilla. At the NE tip of Bali, we turned and headed across towards Lombok. The wind increased, the motor was turned off and Shayile was up on her toes across the straits towards Lombok. It was a great days sailing and we loved it! Back at sea, sailing away, with Australia firmly set in our minds!

Kalimantan (Borneo) to Bali

Pulau Keramian

At about 8.30am the next morning, we rounded the north east tip of Pulau Keramian and made our way south towards a group of fishing boats we saw in the distance. There was a lot of reef about and we found it difficult to find a sheltered spot. We finally dropped the anchor but, I must admit, I was not too happy with our position. Ah yes, visiting hours! Within 10 minutes we had our first visitors on board. However they came with advice. One of the guys was a skipper of a fishing boat and he told us we must move. He pointed south and I took him up on his advice. As I upped the anchor, he steered Shayile proudly, weaving his way between other fishing boats and calling out to them. I could picture the "chirping" going on between them as he steered Shayile! With me next to him, he steered us in between 2 reefs and closed in on the island. As we got closer, the sea settled and soon we were in a protected "hole", surrounded on 3 sides by reef. It was perfect and we dropped the anchor, putting out lots of chain. After a bit of social interaction with the fishermen, they departed, but not for long. Soon there were no fewer than 7 boats anchored all around Shayile, curious to see who were and what we were up to.

   

Pulau Keramian beach


            Daniel and Jenna out catching squid as the sun sets behind the island

For 5 days we never moved Shayile. The anchorage was superb and the scenery even better. The water was mostly clean, but I'm hesitant to say good for snorkeling. Every day we had visitors. They arrived at about 6am and came and went all day. Some were great company. They arrived, chatted, looked around and left after 1/2 hour. Others made themselves at home, arriving at the wrong time, and staying for hours! Very tiring indeed and not easy to get them off Shayile!! We met a young guy one afternoon who spoke a bit of broken English. B had no eggs left and asked him if he could get some for us. He said yes but needed money. With no change I gave him 50 000 Rupiah (R50) hoping that we would see him, the eggs and our change again! Sure enough, next day early he arrived with the eggs, and a small bit of change! His name was Diyeng and he kindly invited us back to his house. Daniel and I decided to go ashore with him whilst B and Jenna remained on Shayile and made a fantastic batch of peanut butter biscuits! (We were still not comfortable to leave her unoccupied) We jumped into the dingy and headed ashore, landing at an old jetty where we tied. We then followed him as he guided us through to a small homestead which was surrounded by coconut trees. There we met his grandparents and a few other family members. No English at all but greetings and formalities were exchanged. From here we walked on through the coconut plantations and small homes perched on stilts and scattered about in the coconut trees. We came upon a small gathering where a lady was serving coffee to a few guys. We joined them and had ourselves a strong, gritty brew of coffee. Each person there wanted us to come back to their house!  They eagerly invited  us back, even bribing us with TV! Fortunately our "guide" took control of all communication and explained the situation. After a heart pulsing brew of coffee, we went on and soon arrived at Diyeng's house. His mother was baking what looked like doughnuts, all laid out on coconut leaves. These little "donuts were stuffed with a sweet coconut mixture and others had a chocolate filling to them. We put in a request for a few! Daniel soon expressed an interest in coconuts and Diyeng grabbed a machete and we headed on into the coconut trees to cut a few down. Young Diyeng climbed a tree with ease and then got busy, hacking away, dropping about 8 coconuts. We gathered them up and returned to his house. There his older brother invited us to his house, so we set off again! We emerged at a small village where there were about 7 houses with a mosque at its center. Kids came from everywhere and soon we were surrounded by children and parents, all eager to touch Daniel, calling him Hercules because of his big muscles. Then they would try work out where we came from and why we were there! Diyeng's brother went off and I soon heard him starting a generator. He rushed back and invited us into his modest house to watch TV! On it came and there was Oprah doing her thing! Here we were in the middle of the Java Sea, on a very remote island, watching The Oprah Show!! Too entertaining! As I was in no mood to sit glued to the TV, we excused ourselves after 20 minutes and thanked everyone for their hospitality. We picked up our coconuts but unfortunately the doughnuts were not ready. Diyeng kindly offered to bring us some the next day. We returned to Shayile loaded with coconuts and enjoyed an afternoon cup of coffee with delicious peanut butter cookies!  

 

A brew of coffee with a few islanders                                    

 

       Daniel surrounded by local kids in the village

As we were surrounded by fishing boats, we decided it was time to be the "visitor" and nor the "visited." We motored across to them and spent some time on one of their fishing boats. We discovered that this was the "mother ship". The smaller boats were the ones that went out and caught the fish and lobsters. Each day they would pull up along side the mother ship and sell their catches. When this vessel was full of fish, it motored off for the island of Java, where the fish were again sold. Although very basic boats, they did have ice on board and huge plastic containers for the storage of the fish. The ice was crushed up and the fish were put into the holds, layered between the ice. We had a very interesting time on board watching them sort and pack their fish away. Most of the fish were shoal barracuda. On leaving we were kindly given a few lobsters (Crayfish) and a fish. I was pleasantly surprised to notice how happy these guys were. Everyone was happy, smiling and enjoying their tasks. Whether it was just them moment, or perhaps they were always happy, I have no idea, but great to see! (Just an observation of mine!) That evening we feasted on another meal of crayfish. We were very fortunate, as quite a few fishermen had pulled up along side Shayile for a social visit and kindly gave us crayfish, calamari and fish, in exchange for a few items of clothing. These were the pleasant visitors, the guys who were genuinely interested in having a look at Shayile, a chat with us and perhaps a beer. They would also arrive with something to trade and we enjoyed their company. However we then got the guys arriving just for a look / see and would continually pester us for something. It was unreal! Some would arrive and, seeing my shoes on Shayile, immediately try them on and ask for them. Then my mask would be tried on and that requested. Everything they took a fancy to was tried out and gestures made that they wanted them! Most times these were older men, lone fishermen trying their luck but unfortunately not pleasant folk. One memorable old codger arrived in a rainstorm in a small canoe with two very scruffy looking old chickens which he wanted to sell to us. The kids enjoyed feeding the chickens popcorn as they sheltered in our dingy. We didn't enjoy the grumpy old guy sitting in our lounge for far too long or us having to wash away the chicken poop when he left!

Whilst there I did try my luck at a bit of fly fishing but no luck. Each day we did the school thing, read and relaxed. Unfortunately even school our relax time and meals were disturbed by visitors. Perhaps we are harping on a bit, but it reached the stage where we were anxious when I boat came by. I cannot blame the guys at all and hence we never ever chased them away. They were curious and I'm sure had perhaps never seen a sailing boat off their island. We were a complete novelty, and those that did come on board, no doubt had a good story to tell back in the village. So we did not deny any of them access, we understood their culture and curiosity, but it certainly got to us. The final straw was when a guy came aboard who could speak a bit of English. He brought a friend along and kept telling me how important this other "friend" was (who spoke no English!) They arrived on a fishing boat and the 2 of them were dropped off!! He then wanted to borrow our ducky, and just took too many liberties. B was mad and retreated to our cabin, as I asked him if he was going to swim back to shore! Of course not and so I had to load them into the ducky and take them ashore. Then we had to visit his house and when I finally said it was home time, they looked offended. The best was when he insisted on returning to Shayile for some hot water! These were not the guys that represented the generosity and friendship of the islanders. With that we decided it was time to move on. Visiting hours on Shayile was over! Pulau Keramian was a fantastic place and we had thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

       

            On board one of the large fishing boats



B having a chat with a fisherman 

     

Pulau Kangean

The next leg was another overnight trip. With no wind at all, we motored virtually the whole way. Being in the busy Java sea, we had to avoid a few ships and other fishing vessels, but it was otherwise an uneventful trip. We arrived at Pulau Kangean early in the morning whilst Belinda was on watch. A stunning sunrise welcomed us to the island and we made our way into a bay on the NW corner. Up ahead I could make out what appeared to be a small village. The plan was to stop off, grab a few provisions from a market and then find ourselves a secluded spot on the southern coast. We dropped anchor in 8 meters of water, about a mile from a jetty. We then went ashore in search of a market. We were met on the jetty by a few local guys and told that the market was some 10 km's away. It was decided that I should go to the local town and buy what was needed. Daniel wanted to come along as well, so we jumped onto a motor bike taxi (3 of us up!) and scooted off. B and Jenna returned to Shayile. Our "taxi driver" spoke a bit of English enabling us to communicate just what we were after. At the small town, we were hustled along towards the market. Being very similar to the market in Kumai, we went about buying fruit and veggies. With not much to see and nothing worth while buying, we made our way back to Shayile. On route, I noticed a group of women attending to rice on the side of the road. I asked the driver to stop and we all climbed off. It was a very picturesque sight. Just off the road were paddy fields. Alongside the road, the ladies were laying out rice to dry. A few were also separating the rice from the stalks. We must have spent 1/2 hour there watching these ladies at work. We also caused bit of a traffic jam. As we left the town, a number of motor bikes followed us. When we stopped, they too stopped. Now others were pulling over, curious to see us and keen to ask a few questions. Always interesting. With the sight seeing over, we returned to Shayile with fruit and veggies for the next few days.

That evening, a squall came through and for the first time in absolute ages, Shayile began to drag her anchor! I sleep very lightly and can feel" every movement of Shayile, every tide change and wind shifts. As the wind picked up, I switched on the anchor alarm and prepared for a blow. The wind and the rain hit us hard and Shayile slowly started to move off. B and I raced up front and let out more anchor chain. That halted the dragging immediately and for the next hour or so, we collected rain water for clothes washing. (Our water maker was working, and had been for some 5 weeks now!!!)  As the squall passed, we dried off and went back to bed.

     

Crayfish for dinner 

        

                                    Both Dan and Jenna tucked into coconut flesh on a daily basis!

The next day we upped the anchor and set off, heading in a southerly direction. I located a small bay on the southern coast which looked to offer shelter, and was in a great position to begin our leg across to Bali. We entered the bay that afternoon and dropped anchor. Again, a very picturesque little cove with rice fields and other crops off in the distance. A few fishing boats were hard at it close by. Visiting hours!! No sooner had we dropped anchor and organised Shayile, when 2 boats pulled up and tied on to Shayile. On climbed the invited guests and conversation commenced! After an hour or so, they left us and went off fishing. We spent 2 nights at this anchorage, swimming, fishing, and entertaining locals. On our last afternoon there, the same group of fishermen climbed aboard Shayile twice in the space of 3 hours. The last time they really settled in and at about 7pm, I had to kindly ask them to leave as we were tired. Getting the message, they climbed aboard their boats, moved about 20 meters away and dropped anchor! Another boat joined them, a did a few dug out paddle boats! B was fuming and just wanted space. I to was tired of the constant entertaining, or just keeping them occupied. Even when we went inside and totally ignored them, they just sat around smoking up a storm, unconcerned that we were not part of a discussion! We decided to move on.

Next morning at 1am, we lifted the anchor and motored out from amongst the gathering of small fishing boats. It was a 75 mile run down to Bali and we wanted to arrive in Bali in day light hours, hence the early start. It was not to sneak away from our visitors!!



Bali

With the wind now something of the past, the trip to Bali was under motor virtually the whole way. I say virtually, a we did motor sail when a small breeze teased us. As the sun started to come up at 5am, I picked out the silhouette of Bali way off in the distance. Seeing the mountain outline through the clouds was impressive and certainly an inspiration. We closed on the northern coast of Bali at about 5pm that afternoon and made our way between the fringe reefs off the town of Lovina. We were welcomed to Bali with dolphins and a stunning sunset. We found a spot in 10 meters of water, just off a beach littered with outrigger type canoes, and dropped the anchor. Welcome to Bali!!


Bali sunset off Lovina  

17th March - 7th May 2008 : Bali

Having spent the past 5 weeks or so, cruising the islands and other remote locations in Indonesia, we were all very excited to be in Bali. It conjures up images of beaches, surf, tourists, and the ultimate tropical destination! We now wanted to experience this paradise and enjoy the Balinese way of life for 6 weeks or so, before heading on east.

N. Coast of Bali - Lovina

We spent the first 3 days at Lovina, on the north coat of Bali, really just settling in, knowing we now had a base for the next 6 weeks. Our first day ashore opened our eyes and, sadly, not for the better. Arriving on the beach we were accosted by desperate but lethargic touts trying to sell us souvenir trinkets, clothing, shells and offering us tours and transport around Bali. They were not easy to shake off and when Daniel and Jenna showed interest in a few necklaces, they would not leave us alone. It was the first of many lessons on how to treat these touts as they harass you for a sale! Once rid of these irritating guys, we walked the beach front. It was not a pretty beach, nor is most of the northern coast of Bali, but tourists do visit Lovina and the surrounding area to go on dolphin sight-seeing trips. As we walked on, we encountered the litter and the stray dogs of Bali, something that would haunt us for the entire duration of our stay in Bali. The litter and garbage!! It was everywhere and no one seemed to pay any attention to the plastic bags and bottles lying on the beaches and walkways. At a small beach front homestead, we saw a lady take a large plastic bag half full with left over food and throw it to the ducks on the beach. That was it! The sea would carry the bag away, once the ducks had nibbled away at what was available to them! We were all quite shocked and debated what kind of people would live with this kind of filth surrounding them? Why not a quick tidy up from time to time? We returned to Shayile saddened by what we saw as our introduction to Bali, but eager to experience more of the island.


Lovina fruit & veg market

Lovina is known for its hot springs and, when in Rome...., we decided to go check them out. We caught a bemo, a type of taxi, out to the hot springs, situated in the hills just above Lovina. On the way out it bucketed down with rain and once dropped off in the parking area, we all dashed for cover. Lining the small lane to the springs are numerous souvenir stalls, with eager shop keepers doing everything to drag customers into their shop. Sadly they all sell exactly the same thing but none the less. With B having a look around to pick up some new sarongs to dry off with, Daniel and I wandered on up the road in the rain. At one shop we managed to shelter for a while, waiting for B to catch up. Across the road from us, on the payment outside was a baby monkey, chained to a pillar. It was so, so sad. Not an expert on monkeys, but this baby was no older than 2 months. It was tiny, and very wet! In a cowering, sad, frightened appearance, it sat hiding its head low on its chest, with its arms covering its face. Daniel asked me why it was there and I had no answer but to reply humans can be very cruel at times. He got more concerned for the poor monkey and eventually I tried to ask the shop keeper why it was there, knowing full well it was for entertainment and a money making little skit. With the "No speak English", we left. Daniel began to cry, asking why we could not take it and let it go. How do you answer the question knowing full well the baby monkey was either stolen from its mother or its mother killed for it. Not 3 shops further down the alley, we came across another one, in exactly the same position. Daniel was distraught by what he saw, asking me now could people treat animals so badly, why it was chained and cold and wet. I had to agree with him and do my best to explain that not all people are good when it comes to the treatment of animals and that these animals should be living in their natural habitat, not being used by some selfish individual to make money, and later to be discarded like an old bicycle. We need to live and let live Daniel, and I could see the confusion in his eyes as to why people would do such a thing.


Lovina Hot Springs 

We entered the springs and it was like going back in time. The 40's, and it had not been upgraded or any form of maintenance carried out. The setting was very picturesque and, although raining, the swimming pool like baths into which the hot spring water ran, looked inviting. We stored our belongings in a locker and as we headed on down to the springs, Daniel called me across to see something. There in a cage about 1 meter x 1 meter was a porcupine. The floor was all concrete and scattering of old fruit lay about on the floor. It lay huddled in a corner with its nose up against the cage. I looked on in disgust! Why? Daniel was now angry with the people, saying how would they like to be locked up in a cage like that and I could only agree. Was this a representation of the Balinese culture towards the treatment of animals? We had seen the total filth of garbage and plastic in the sea and on the beaches. Stray tatty, flea infested dogs roamed the streets and now this. Bali was slowly dropping in our ratings! We headed off and jumped into the water. For the next hour or so we did our best to enjoy the warm spring water. Unfortunately it smelt quite a bit, only natural, and was kind of slimy. We sat under the fountains and played about until our skin was shriveled up! After grabbing our towels and clothes, we got changed in the most disgusting change rooms I have ever been in, in my life! A quick lunch at the restaurant, and we left. Although very interesting, we felt a lot more could have been done to what was perhaps Lovina's primary tourist attraction. 

 

West Bali National Park

We spent a few more days anchored off Lovina and then decided to head west towards the NW tip of Bali where there was a National Park and a marine reserve, and the snorkeling reputed to be great. We upped anchor was motored west, a trip of 25 miles or so. It was a pleasant trip and we sat about, doing school work, reading, listening to music and admiring the huge volcano's high up on Bali, a very different sky line to what we had been used to. A few hours and B called out to me asking what was up ahead in the water. As we approached we ran into a flotsam of garbage! It must have been over a km long, obviously formed in a current line. It was so bad that we even began filming the filth as we motored on by. B commented that this was dumped garbage, not the occasional plastic bag in the water scenario. What was this place called Bali and how do people live like this? I always try giving the benefit of the doubt and identifying the "perhaps that is why", but this was a shocker! Unfortunately our insight into this total disregard for nature and selfish behavior, had only just begun!!

We approached the island of Menjangan which was inside the marine reserve and began looking for a place to anchor. It was difficult as, being a volcanic island, the sea bed drops off very quickly to depths not convenient for anchoring in. Seeing a small hut on the island, I jumped into the rubber duck and went ashore, whilst B kept Shayile just off in deeper water. A ranger explained to me that the only anchorage was across the bay, on Bali mainland and that we should head on across there. I thanked him and returned to Shayile.  On reaching the so called anchorage, again we battled to find a spot to anchor. There was a lot of rock and coral about and it was very deep. On the shore was a camp where dive boats lined the beach and bungalow type huts scattered in the bush behind, all for those visiting the marine reserve. We finally dropped anchor, but felt the grinding as the anchor dragged across rock and coral. 


Family evening on Shayile

Next day I went ashore to enquire about snorkeling the island in the marine reserve. Out came the calculator and I was hit with a R460 fee for 4 hours diving! Although reputed to be the best diving in Bali, I was not prepared to pay that amount. It was ludicrous! I went back and gave it another go, saying we had our own boat and own snorkel gear. They finally brought it down to R200, but were informed that we needed to take a guide with us. Having come so far to snorkel, I agreed and we set off back to Shayile with our guide Nono. Little did we know at the time, but Nono would be instrumental in taking us on a very exciting excursion up a volcano on Java.

We motored out to Menjangan Island and found a mooring buoy unoccupied. Out of interest, Menjangan is home to what is believed to be Bali's oldest temple, Pura Gili Kencana. We quickly tied up and I dived down to examine the strength and condition of the mooring lines. With all ok, the whole family got their gear together and we set off on the duck, Nono showing us the way.  We did what can only be described as an incredible drop off dive. From 1 - 2 meters, the ground dropped off over a wall of coral and disappeared into the depths below. The wall was stunning and we slowly edged our way along, swimming with the current and enjoying all the stunning coral and sea life. It certainly was one of the best snorkels we had had so far but, true to form, it was spoilt by submerged plastic bags, polystyrene, bottles and other garbage. Back on Shayile we brought up the subject with Nono and we could see the regret on his face. Nono had completed his degree and was keen to become a lawyer. He was also actively involved in the marine reserves activities and, what appeared to be, above and beyond the call of duty. He had formed a small organisation called "Friends of Nature" and did his part in trying to keep the reefs clean and the coral grounds free of garbage. He explained to us his frustrations and difficulties in even trying to influence his fellow rangers in the need to protect and look after the marine reserve. We sympathized with him and told him how, in 3 years of sailing, we had never experienced this type of wholesale litter in the ocean. I hope that more people like Nono will take up the cause and do what needs to be done in cleaning up the sea around Bali. On returning to the camp, Nono pointed out a volcano on the eastern tip of Java called Mount Ijen. He told us it was an active volcano and certainly worth seeing. As a tour guide, he did take parties up Mt Ijen and said that he would take us if we were keen. The few photos he showed us looked fantastic! We told him it sounded like a wonderful adventure and that we would consider it and phone him. In those 5 hours or so together, we got to know Nono quite well and he seemed like an intelligent, level headed guy. At the camp, he said good bye to us and hopped off. We then set off back to Lovina on Shayile.

The trip back had its moment when the port engine overheated. I immediately switched off and got busy. It seemed like there was a lot of sludge in the fresh water cooling system and I did my best to get rid of it. After adding more water and cleaning it every 30 minutes or so, it ran well again. We sighed with relief after worrying that perhaps we had done damage to our engine! Back in Lovina, we dropped anchor and settled in for the night.


Lovina beach with local tourist boats



Not keen to hang around Lovina much longer, we went off to the local market and bought a few fruits and veggies for the trip down to Benoa, the port of Bali. This was our second visit to the market and not the best place to go buying provisions. Again, a health hazard with garbage and litter strewn everywhere! Gritting our teeth, we bought the necessary and headed back to Shayile.



Trip to Serangan

Next morning early, we upped anchor and set out through the break in the reef and out into the open sea. We headed east following the coast line around the northern tip of Bali and then down the NE coast. This stretch of coastline is ruggered and, looking at the shoreline, we could  see it had been recently battered by  storm surf. (We later found out that this occurred when we had all the bad weather in Palau Belitung.) There were a lot of sand bags holding up sand banks and construction was being carried out where roads had been washed away. At about 4pm, we found a spot to anchor. Unfortunately it was totally exposed to the elements and not an anchorage at all, but we decided to go for it. If it turned nasty during the night, we could easily move on. With anchor down, we relaxed and planned the trip down to Benoa. We still wanted to see the "real" Bali!




Friday night family party on Shayile

We were up early the next morning and after another fine cup of coffee, we commenced our trip down to Bali. It was at this stage that my computer literally packed in! Fortunately I had Daniels and set that one up as my navigation facility. I would now need to get mine repaired in Denpasar on Bali. We motored off down the coast towards the eastern tip of Bali. It was here that we picked up the first bit of current to be experienced in these waters. The straits between Bali and Lombok islands are infamous for their strong currents. Looking at a chart, you will notice the Indonesian islands stretching from east Java, right across to the Tanimbar Islands. Almost a "dam" of islands. As the Pacific Ocean is 15cm higher than the Indian Ocean, the water flow is from north to south (Pacific to Indian Ocean) These Indonesian islands, with their channels between each of the islands, now act like sleuth gates forcing the water down between the islands causing extreme currents. At times these currents can reach 8 - 10 knots!  Fortunately we were now going with the flow as we rounded the eastern tip of Bali and headed south. At about 3pm, we reached the bay of Labuan Amuk, the planned anchorage for the night. Amuk is a large bay and we motored up into the NE corner and dropped the anchor. As we pulled on the anchor, we heard the familiar grating noise of anchoring on rock! It finally took and although not ideal, we were holding and Shayile was in a safe area. B fired up a cup of coffee and we sat and looked out towards the beach where outrigger sailing boats and hotels lined the beach front. It was a pretty setting and looming some 3142 meters above us  tucked away in the clouds, was the sacred volcano mountain of Gunung Agung, "the navel of the world" and Bali's "mother mountain".


Shayile with Mt Gunung Agung

Next day we were woken up with Daniels exciting voice. There were squid under Shayile and the right size! We all jumped up, prepared squid lures and got busy! Within half an hour, we had 5 on board and lunch was in the making. With the arrival of the squid, we now had no immediate plans of heading on just yet. Squid (calamari) is a favorite dish for all of us and we were keen to enjoy every meal! We stayed at Amuk for 3 days. We swam, squid fished and carried on with the routine of schooling each morning. We also did a bit of boogie board ski-ing and visited the beach. It was a pleasant 3 days and, once we decided to head on, our calamari health levels had improved some what!

Serangan anchorage

Next stop was Benoa, the main port of Bali and home of the marina. As we motored on down the coast, I telephoned the marina to get rates. They informed me that the daily rate was 15US dollars! This excluded water and electricity. I had also read in a pilot report that it was not a particularly attractive marina and with that price, we decided to rather head into the anchorage of Serangan. The village of Serangan is close to Benoa and lies on a river where there is a small anchorage. We headed for the entrance and made our way in between the fringe reefs and surf breaks. Quite a sight and not much room for error on entering the river, infact intimidating for first time arrivals! We motored in and dropped our anchor close to another catamaran at anchor. Soon a local guy came out to us and told us we could pick up one of his mooring buoys for 90 000 Rupee. (R90) I kindly informed him that this was more than we paid at Rebak Marina in Langkawi! The price then dropped to 65 000 rupee (and would later drop to 50 000) but I was not interested. Already the money grabbing had commenced! Serangan was a small island or peninsula but the ex presidents son decided to turn it into a marina. This was a great idea as Bali sorely lacks a good marina. Within months a man made island was created by dredging the river and constructing the beginnings of the marina. Unfortunately not all was going his way and soon he ended up in jail, where he still is, on fraud and embezzlement charges. (How surprising!) Today the marina lies incomplete but certainly awaiting development. Now safely anchored in Serangan, our plan was to explore Bali mainland and visit the volcano on Java with Nono. We also planned to get in some surfing, reprovision, and then head off. All this should take about 5 weeks. With a plan in place we set about preparing for our first trip, a weeks tour of Bali by vehicle.


Landing jetty at Serangan

Going ashore at Serangan, I met Wayan, a local guy who rents out moorings and assists yachties with provisioning, fuel, etc. Glayva, (Mark and Rachael) had given me Wayan's details and told me he could assist us. Fortunately we also met Wayans side kick, Made (Monday), who turned out to assist me over the next few weeks, albeit at a price. An example of this was the diesel run. Requiring diesel, Monday offered me his assistance. We grabbed the jerry cans and, taking the rubber duck, headed to the garage. At the pump, discussions commenced with Monday and the attendants. I took note of the price of diesel being 4600 rupee and the process began. When I came to pay for the first load, the price was now 5000 rupee. I was informed that this is a government tax for boats. No receipt, no documentation, but this was the price! (I was not overly concerned as in Langkawi, there was a government tax on diesel) I did a number of trips, each time paying the "government tax"! 6 weeks later I returned without Monday and this time needing a lot of diesel, there was no more government tax! What a surprise!! In the anchorage was another yacht which was on its way through to Singapore. Monday kindly organised to fill their tanks with diesel. On completing the task, he came across to Shayile. "Rob, if he (the skipper) asks you how much for diesel, tell him 5500 rupee!" Talk about trying to put me on the spot. Well, if anyone is too lazy to go check out the pump price for diesel, they are going to get ripped off! Unfortunately this was an ongoing issue with Wayan, Monday and his team, and led to us eventually not doing any business with them. Not that it got any better with someone else, as it was all the same. Play hard, negotiate, argue, negotiate, reject them, play their game, ignore their emotions, play hard! Only then will you get a price considered fair, but never good! 

 

Jenna entertaining the kids at Serangan

    

Daniel on the beach at Serangan

An interesting aspect to life in Bali is the way the Balinese name their children. Basically there are only four first names! The first child born is called Wayan, the second called Made (Ma-de), the third in Nyoman and the forth is called Ketut. And the fifth, sixth, seventh etc, well they are Wayan, Made, Nyoman and Ketut again! Very simple, but for us westerners, quite confusing! With Monday always there to assist us, we needed to buy some food and he managed to organised us a vehicle for the day. When the vehicle agreed on did not materialise, he went away and returned with a hi-ace type taxi! It was a rickety old specimen of a vehicle, but served the purpose of a quick visit to Makro, yes Makro, and also to hand my computer in for repairs! The family bailed in and off we went. Heading out of Serangan, there was a huge sinkhole in the road and, not seeing it, we plowed into it at 60km/h! The kids hit the roof and the poor vehicle was almost air born. Checking that everyone was ok, Daniel informed me the back side window had shattered! I assumed the torque on the frame had smashed the window and there was glass on the floor. Fortunately the window was still held together and in place. Jenna insisted that the window was broken before we left, as she was sitting next to it, but none the less I was concerned! After handing in my computer for repairs, we drove into the town of Denpasar, we found a Mc Donald's. With Daniel and Jenna hanging for some junk food, we decided to pop in for lunch. With lunch done, I tried to start the car but it was dead! There the family was, push starting this rust bucket in the parking lot at Mc Donald's! On completing the shopping and returning the car, the broken window was pointed out to us but nothing pursued in terms of having to pay for it, perhaps confirming Jenna's observation that it was broken before leaving. There was also the "lets take a chance as they may pay for it" by the vehicle owners!



A trip to central Bali and Ubud

With a few provisions in place, we hired another car suitable for a tour of Bali and, with Shayile safely on a mooring, (now 40 000 rupee!), we climbed into the car. Armed with our 10 year old Lonely Planet travel guide, we set off. It was a long drive through towns and villages. As we passed into the more rural area, the scenery improved and we entered rice farms with paddy fields covering the landscape. Our first overnight stop was up in the volcanic mountains in central Bali. As no accommodation had been booked, we would need to find it once at a suitable destination. We drove up to the Danau Bratan area in the central mountains. It was a pleasant drive through the rice terraces and we ascended into the cool, mountainous country around Danau Bratan. (It is a lake up in the mountains) Passing Bratan we went on to Danua Buyan and stopped for lunch at a quaint little restaurant overlooking the lake of Buyan. Looking down into the lake, we could see abandoned temples along the shores. With lunch done, we headed back towards Bedugal, the main town in the area. Here we began our search for accommodation. Using our Lonely Planet as a guide, we visited quite a few guest houses and bungalow type accommodation. Again, the price always started at about 300% higher than the going rate and, again, we spent time bargaining down prices for the night. Most of the accommodation on offer was far from satisfactory. They were mostly old and dirty and, with no upkeep in any of the rooms and with poor facilities, we moved on to the next one. Eventually we found something vaguely suitable and, after hard bargaining, checked in for the night. That afternoon we went off to the local market in Bedugul and began a 2 hour hard bargaining shopping outing. As soon as we arrived at the first shop in the market, we were surrounded by touts thrusting all kinds of souvenirs and trinkets in our faces! Now wising up to the bargaining procedures, we totally ignored them, and went in to where the shops were. Again, we were virtually man handled into the shops by eager traders. B went off shopping for gifts and items to take home one day, whilst the kids and I went off looking at what was on offer. Jenna needed a watch as hers had packed in one day after Christmas, her Christmas present! We came across a guy with a tray of watches strapped around his neck. On offer were genuine imitation watches, all with labels! Jenna took a fancy to a "Chanel" watch and I did my best to bargain him down to a price I though acceptable. Jenna eventually got her watch. I also caught sight of a Rolex watch. Starting at 700 000 rupee, I offered 100 000 and then I  turned and walked away. For the next 1 to 2 hours, the tout followed me around and slowly the price came down. Every time I offered a price he would plead bankruptcy and shock that I would him insult him with such a price! None the less, down came the price and I eventually picked it up for 150 000 rupee. Even at that price I am sure I did not get the bargain of a life time but the tout certainly expressed the signs that I had ripped him off. All part of their tact to get a better price!! I then gave Daniel and Jenna R50 each to buy something that they fancied, also doing my best to try introduce them to the art of bargaining. With my assistance, Daniel bought a so called traditional blow pipe complete with darts. Unfortunately I did not get to Jenna in time and she was taken. I was furious, but the deal was done and we all learned a lesson in bargaining! After an interesting few hours, we decided to buy dinner and head back to the bungalows. As we all love chicken satays, I ordered 30 tiny shriveled up Chicken satays. Once cooked we then bought a few mielies and headed back to the bungalow. That evening we sat and ate our dinner, but soon realised that the chicken was not all chicken. We had been sold quite a few bunny satays! The kids were not too happy, but we ate them. Again, one needs to be so careful when ordering. Clearly the guy cooking the chicken satays did not have enough so snuck in quite a few bunny satays! (Very popular in the area).


Rob chatting to a paddy field worker



Next morning we attempted breakfast at the inn, but after an unsuccessful attempt, decided to head into town and buy some breakfast there! Unfortunately we were not that impressed with the area and what it had to offer. Although naturally stunning, it seemed a "has been" area and not somewhere to spend a week relaxing! Although we planned to spend 2 days there, we thought it best to head off down to the art and crafts district around the town of Ubud. We set off back down and again, an interesting drive down through the rice fields and villages. We stopped off for lunch at a Babi Guling restaurant just outside Ubud. These are pork restaurants scattered across Bali and serve only pork! It was an interesting meal of assorted pork meat, fat and sausages along with rice and a few vegetables. Interesting but not a restaurant we were going to rush back to! After lunch we continued towards Ubud and soon entered the stone carving sector of Ubud. Ubud is renown for its art and crafts and, interestingly enough, the town is "divided" or separated by areas pertaining to the nature of the crafts produced. There is the wood carving area, the stone carving area and the weaving area. This is very noticeable as you drive through the different parts of Ubud. Lining the roads is row upon row of shops all carrying out the same craft! We entered Ubud and began our search for accommodation. Referring to our Lonely Planet, we looked for a "home stay". This is a kind of B&B where one can live in the home of a local Balinese family and experience a part of their way of life. At a tourist information centre of sort, B went in to enquire on places to stay. One was pointed out and a rate of 250 000rupee given. The guy giving the info jumped in with us and we drove the short distance to the hotel. On inspecting the room, we decided to take him up on the offer. However things had now changed and the price was now 350 000 rupee! When asked why the change in price, we were told this was a superior room and the others were not available. With that I picked up our bags and told B and the kids to jump in the car. This was a typical stunt to pull on price and we were not falling for it, regardless of the quality of the room!  After a checking out a few home stays, we eventually found the Nuriani Roof Garden Guest House. The folks were pleasant and the house very clean and presentable. We checked in for 3 days.

 

Ubud

With a place to stay, we were ready to tackle Ubud! Over the next 3 days, we explored Ubud and did our best to bargain for artifacts, presents and other pieces of art we found we really could not live without! Ubud is really one big shopping center with all the traps of one. With the constant harassment from shop keepers and the need to negotiate and bargain for everything, it can get quite tiring. On occasions, when something was spotted that we found interesting, we didn't even have the energy to begin the whole process, and walked on by! Entering a shop meant being shown every item and explained how it was made by their poor granny at home. (As the same item appeared in every shop down the lane, poor granny must have been very busy! The bargaining process usually went something like this : After picking up something we liked, we would enquire on a price. Opening price was usually 3 to 4 times its value. "400 000 rupee for the picture." Too much, not worth it, I would reply. "How much you want?" (Putting the ball in our court) 50 000 rupee, I would reply and walk away. "You are killing me.... how about 300 000 rupee?"  Heading towards the door, my reply "50 000". "Ok, ok, special for you 200 000. Now the plan is to loose interest and begin looking at something else! "Ok, I make special price, first customer for day, 150 000rupee" (Amazing the difference already!) "70 000", came my reply, now showing total lack of interest. "Oh no, you bunkrot me, cannot do!" Now outside the store we stand and look about. "Ok mister, for you 100 000 rupee". (There is a sign of him now being totally dejected by the way the bargaining process is going; he is now playing on our emotions!) "70 000 is my price. Any more and I have a very bad feeling in my body", I would reply. "Ok, ok (now looking miserable) your take it for 75 000. I lose money!" Done, and I hand over the 75 000 rupee, with the shopkeeper now showing signs that business is really tough!. Deal done we walk away, feeling we did well. Only to chat to someone later with the same article and find they got it for 50 000!!! Yes, we got some fantastic bargains and, yes, sometimes we paid too much, but it was all part of the process of buying anything in Bali. Fortunately we did find the "wholesale" side of Ubud and bought most of our goods there, not having to do too much negotiating and the prices were a lot cheaper.




Rice Fields outside Ubud

           

Best meal in Bali at Nuri’s!

The home stay was very interesting and great to learn a bit about the day to day life in a typical middle to upper class family. What amazed us was the religious aspect. Each house has its family temple, (Sanggah Kemulan) usually situated in the front garden and occupying a large space. These were elaborate thatch like structures of all sizes. They are not necessarily dedicated to any particular deceased person, but a "home" and place of worship for the ancestors, and may include shrines to the Hindu trinity. Each morning a ritual takes place where offerings are made up and placed throughout the house, in various places including outside the house walls. The process and commitment to the preparation and placing of these offerings astounded us. Banana leafed plates with flowers, rice, fruit and incense sticks. Once each one is positioned, a small pray takes place. This ritual takes place every morning and, it seems the wealthier the household, the more elaborate the offerings are.


Ancestors temple at Nuriani Guest House



Throughout Bali, down the streets, one will see these offerings in various places, usually only to be eaten by the hundreds of dogs that scavenges around! At Nuriani's we were able to chat to the head of the family and interact with the wife and children. It was great to learn a bit about their way of life. One evening we all went to a traditional dancing show. Again, very interesting with costumes and props used in playing out a religious dance performance. At the end, much to the delight of Daniel, there was a fire dance where some deranged guy danced away barefooted on burning coconut husks! 

 

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Ancient temple visit, with us in the rice fields

Back to Serangan

Having spent 5 days in Ubud, shopped and bargained ourselves exhausted and seen the sites, we drove back to Serangan where Shayile was waiting for us. With the anchorage not a favorite of ours, we decided to head out and across to the island of Lembongan. Whilst in Serangan, we had met an Australian couple on a catamaran. Toby and Vicki were avid surfers and spent 3 to 6 months of the year in Indonesia surfing! They mentioned to us that Lembongan was a great anchorage and offered good surf breaks. Without hanging about, we lifted anchor and set off across the straits to join Toby and Vicki at Lembongan. Battling current, we finally entered the anchorage and managed to pick up a mooring buoy. Each morning, huge tourist ferry boats arrive and anchor up in the small bay. The tourists then embark on a day of parasailing, jet ski-ing and enjoying various other water sports on offer. Then, in the afternoon, they load up and head back to Bali, leaving the anchorage for us to enjoy into the evening. What Daniel and I really enjoyed was the surf on offer. 3 great surf breaks were on our doorstep, ranging from "Play grounds" for beginners, to "Laceration" through to "Ship wrecks" where the big stuff was on offer. With Playgrounds within paddling distance of Shayile, myself and Daniel would jump off and paddle out to the surf break. There we would spend many hours in the surf brushing up on those surf skills. Daniel became a real little "Surfer Dan" and would wake up each morning and check to see what the surf was doing. Then he would report in to me on the conditions and the waves, and off we would go for our morning surf together. I never attempted "Ship wrecks" but "Lacerations" produced a great wave and I spent time working on my skills of sitting on a board, chatting to mates, and enjoying the scenery! After a week of surf, relax and sundowners with Toby and Vicki, a signal came through that it was time to leave!


Daniel & Jenna after a morning surf 

One evening, the surf picked up and a huge ground swell began to roll into the small bay at Lembongan. Thinking it was tidal, we put up with the motion and then went off to bed. As the night progressed, the size of the swells increased. B and I began to keep anchor watch as the swell increased and the waves began to form on the reef close to us. Toby was anchored closer to the beach and in the middle of the night, he realised that it was no longer a safe bet. Should the mooring line break in the now huge swell, he would be on the beach in no time. They cast off and went further out to another buoy. Through the night we watched as Shayile rose and sank as each swell passed under us. We could see the other large boats anchored further out to see, rising as swells came in. Then they were on us and, at times, we wondered if they were going to break! It was not a pleasant night and early the next morning, we cast off and motored out of Lembongan! Toby and Vicki followed a few hours later. I'm sure the surfers had fun for the next few days but Shayile was not in the surfing mode! Crossing back to Bali was an experience! With current with us, Shayile was doing over 10knots under motor! The swells coming up the straits were the biggest I had ever seen and should they develop into rollers, we would have been in trouble! We later learned that this does occur and huge surf breaks can develop in the straits at times, leading to extremely dangerous conditions for boats. Back in Serangan, we began to plan out next outing - Java and a visit to a volcano!