Thursday 25 May 2006

Chagos - Our "Robinson Crusoe" days

The dream islands of Chagos!

The next day we decided it was time to return to Ile Takamaka. That same day at lunch time, Norbert and Andrea on board Pamela left Chagos bound for Madagascar. As I needed to return a computer disk to them, I radioed them and organized to meet them outside the atoll. I hopped in the rubber duck and shot out over the reef. They motored up the coast and I met Pamela just outside the Saloman atoll. I climbed on board and had a farewell beer with them. Ian on Sabi Star and Jim on Moonlighter had “hitched” a lift with Pamela as they intended fishing outside the atoll. Their ducky was tied up behind Pamela. We all sat around and chatted before we all said our goodbyes and Norbert and Andrea headed off. With that, I headed back to Shayile whilst Ian and Jim tried their luck at a bit of fishing.

Back at Shayile we wasted no time in getting a few things together and heading for the beach. It was Bert on the yacht Cirrus’s birthday and a small party was taking place at Boddam. We joined everyone for a few drinks and a chat, catching up with happenings across the atoll at Boddam. A few yachts were still anchored here, but conditions were not that great. The SE trades were making it an extremely rolly anchorage with an onshore wind!  Having caught up on the news and shared a few drinks, we headed back to Shayile and left for Takamaka. On the way back I brought out a bottle of rum and B made a great pineapple cocktail mix. With rum punch on the table we slowly made our way across the atoll, playing “dodge the bommies”.

Within an hour, we were back at Takamaka and dropped the anchor. Soon Christine and Donna on Sabi Star joined us, followed by Lindy on Moonlighter. Then the party began!

Half past clock in the morning we called it a night! After eating most of our fish and drinking vast quantities of B’s rum punch, playing guitars, singing and generally making our names Tupperware, those with tenders stumbled off Shayile and departed, trying to find their yachts! A great night was had by all.

B: Maya from Iron Lady turned one and we had a wonderful party on the beach. I made date loaf and cupcakes with sprinkles which the kids loved. Nadine baked something delicious as usual and Nathalie mad two large baking trays of cake. As cakes and sweet things are such a treat, everyone tucks in with gusto. We continued on into the night with a farewell party for Iron Lady. I was quite relived they were moving on as Shayile had become the tea and cigarette stop, up to 4 times a day! As they had no morning school but both needed time alone for the various business deals, they would often pop in independently of each other. I found it extremely disruptive but felt powerless to stop it. We did share coffee and cake on their boat one afternoon and thoroughly enjoyed a bottle of Champagne on Maya’s birthday.


Jim, B and Lindi in party mode!


Unfortunately the port engine still needed attention and no amount of partying would make the problem go away. The next day however was ruled out and it was only a few days later that we decided to tackle the problem.

Ian on Sabi Star had very kindly offered his assistance and we both climbed into the engine room and got to work. Now the engine was turning over, but would not start. First up was fuel. Perhaps there was a blockage somewhere? Most of the day was spend trying to find the problem and, at the same time, sorting out other minor issues inside the engine room. By the end of the day, we were still without success. She would not start.

Next day we were back at it. This time Kim on Rival Chief joined us and we tackled the problem. Later that day, after no success, Ian suggested it may be the exhaust. We pulled that apart and finally discovered the problem. At the elbow joint, just after the exhaust manifold, it was caked solid with soot, rust and gunk!  There had been a steady build up of carbon, rust and soot over the years. We needed to chisel it out, clearing a passage through for the exhaust fumes to go. With the task complete we assembled the engine and away she went! Thanks to Ian and Kim, I again had my engines back. We went on to clean both engines as the other one was also caked up with carbon and soot. I now had 2 engines with a whole new breathing system in place and I was looking forward to taking Shayile for a burn around the atoll to try her engines and feel that extra power which was sure to come from an improved exhaust system.  
So, with fish on board, both engines going and 5 weeks to go on Chagos; all was well with Shayile and the Bentley clan!


Rob, doing some checking of the mast & rigging 


B: One of the highlights for me was The Ladies Picnic. Dianne on ‘Lady Guinevere’ is a French Canadian lady married to an ex-SAS Brit and they have been coming to Chagos for years. Di is a very capable, hard working lady but she also likes a good party. One day after much planning 5 of us set out to Il de Passe, an island about a mile away where no-one was anchored. We went equipped with great snacks, little clothing and lots of booze. Christine, a hung over Sinead, and I went in one dingy and Lindy and Di in another. I had wanted Nadine to come but it was sort of by invitation only. Anyway we had a wonderful, relaxing day walking around the island, swimming topless in the sea and snacking on delicious treats. But for most of the day we lay around under the palm trees chatting. We had a great time discussing how we first met our partners and how long it was before we were married etc. Sadly the day flew by and we all had to return to our families and chores but we did manage to ‘flash’ a few boats to let them know what them know what they had missed!

And so the days just melted into each other as we lapped up the life on Chagos. And what a fantastic life it was! What we found totally amazing was how our days were filled with activities. It was pretty much go, go, go all day and by the end of the day, we were all totally bushed! It was also the problem of; so much time but no time at all. No sooner have we kicked off the day, it was dinner time. The days just flew by and, after lifting our heads, we found ourselves celebrating 2 months at Chagos.

With the SE trade winds firmly established and a steady 10 – 15 knots blowing regularly, the first of the yachts start to leave Saloman. Slowly the yacht club was starting to thin out. Rival Chief, with Kim and Sinead departed for Thailand. Others left for the Seychelles and Madagascar. Many had planned to leave towards the end June, beginning of July.
We were still on track to leave early July. However when B and I chatted about it, we both agreed that we were not nearly ready to leave this stunning place. Another 3 months would be great!

Another yachtie activity for Chagos : Kathy on Mr Curly organized a weaving lesson and those keen to learn how to make hats ands baskets out of coconut leaves attended. Although I was not there, B came back with a hat and a mat made of coconut leaves. One has to learn all you can out here!

Kids having fun on Takamaka


Let’s talk fishing: Although I come from a “fishing family”, there was (and still is!) a lot for me to learn about fishing. Chagos is renowned for its fishing and fishing stories.

This extract is for those fishermen and fisherwomen out there, Chagos is paradise! The fish are big and plentiful and with a bit of knowledge and not much luck, you will catch fish at Chagos.

Basically there are 2 preferred methods of fishing that one can participate in. Bottom fishing and trawling. (Yes, there are others like spear fishing but not enjoyed by most)

Bottom fishing, using rod and reel off the back of the yacht or off the rocks involves bait. It’s a great way to fish from the comfort of ones yacht. Using strong tackle, rod and reel, reef fish are plentiful. Fish most commonly caught are: Coral Trout, Emperors, Rock cod, Sweet lips, Wrasse and Snapper. Using bait and equipped with a bit of skill, by dinner time something tasty is on the menu! I do not really do too much bottom fishing, but when Belinda yells, desperate for a fish, on goes the bait and over the side. Boring fishing but, hey, a fish for the pan or the braai is virtually guaranteed.

The bottom fishing was so good that choosing your dinner was an option. By putting on a mask and dropping your bait over the side, we could watch as fish approached the bait. If it was not what you wanted, we just lifted the bait up, ensuring the fish did not get it. If you liked what you saw, nab it!!

The other fishing method, which I preferred, was game fishing by trawling a lure. When the time is right, i.e. when we have no fish, Chagos fishermen head out into the open ocean and trawl a lure. These are usually the Rapala type lures and skirts. These lures are trawled behind the ducky at speeds that vary from 4 knots to 15 knots, depending on the lure and the fishermen! There are 2 methods used out at sea and this is where it gets interesting. Either a rod and reel or a hand line. Conventional rod and reel is easy to explain, and with some heavy duty tackle, you’re in business. Hand lines are different. The line strength varies from anything between 100kg line and 350 kg line! Some can only be classified as rope. So, with rod or hand lines, out we went. I preferred trawling at slower speeds and I always used a rod and reel. This can give rise to lively debate on Chagos, with merit to both sides on what method to use. Why slower speed trawling? Well, the fish out here are not your average sized fish. They are huge and with a fish swimming at 25 knots and the ducky doing 15 knots, the strike and impact is enormous. At high speeds, when a large fish strikes, quite often something gives; usually the trace. I prefer slower speeds and still they hit! I also prefer a rod and reel. I like to “fight” the fish, letting it take line as it runs and retrieving as it tires. When a big Tuna or Wahoo takes the lure, it is able to run; there is give and the battle begins! Using a hand line has its advantages as the fish has no where to go and with the chance of breaking 200kg line, quite slim, it is soon hauled in. However when a big Tuna of say 30kg’s smashes into a hand line, my interpretation says something has to give, and usually it is the hooks that break or straightens out. So many fishermen return to the yacht club with smashed lures and hooks. This is rather the exception than the rule, but I still back the good old rod and reel and a battle of strength and skill!

However the disadvantage in Chagos on rod and reel is sharks!! The longer it takes to bring in a fish, the more chance one has of losing it to a shark. Sharks are everywhere and quite disconcerting!
So, hand line or rod, fish of all sizes are caught and enjoyed at Chagos.

My other favorite method of catching fish is fly fishing. Having been introduced to fly fishing by Ben and Pam Pretorious of Ufudu Flyfishing, I will continue to seek perfection in this art of fishing! Nothing beats tying a fly and then catching a fish on that fly. A certain amount of self gratification can be enjoyed from this. Success with a fly is nowhere near that of bait or trawling. Simply stated, it is not easy, and perhaps this is why I and so many others enjoy it. Hard work and a real challenge but very, very rewarding.
That’s my experience of fishing in Chagos, but one thing guaranteed, fish are plentiful. 

A typical Chagos anchorage, this one at Boddam


Late June and most of the yachts in Chagos were anchored off Takamaka and Fouquet Islands. These islands offered the best protection during this time. However nothing is guaranteed when it comes to weather and every once in a while, it is bound to throw something unexpected your way. We got our first dose of this on the early morning of the 16th June, Comrades Marathon Day. (And I was thinking of my brother Donald, as he tackled yet another grueling race from Durban to Pietermaritzburg!) B and I woke up at the same time to the sound of grating anchor chain. The wind had changed direction and we were now swinging around onto a lee shore! As we swung around and the chain stretched out, it dragged across rock and coral! I jumped up, switched on the GPS / Chart plotter and set the anchor alarm; at the same time taking a note of our depth, and writing down Shayile’s co-ordinates in order to monitor movement. I then went outside and started the engines, ensuring everything was ready in the event of an emergency “lets get out of here”, scenario developing. We then prepared Shayile for a blow.

The wind swung putting Shayile, and all the yachts at the anchorage, up against the reef on a lee shore!  All around us lights were going on. Then the radio started with concerns over some yachts getting close to the reef with one yacht virtually on it. They had 2 anchors down and one parted. They came very close to the reef before starting their engine and motoring away. Others were concerned with the amount of chain they had out and a few even upped anchor and moved further out. The blow continued for some 2 – 3 hours. Those yachts anchored just off the channel between Takamaka and Fouquet had a hard time. There was wind and weather over current and waves were developing as the 2 met. Erias upped anchor and moved out of the area. Jean-Ives later said they were about to surf! However as her motored away from the situation, he hit a bommie as he maneuvered into a new anchoring position. Fortunately Erias is solid steel and, with a retractable keel, he was able to lift the keel and motor off the bommie. Not a good day for him! Although we were ok, I was concerned with dragging and being on a lee shore, but Shayile held fast. As the morning arrived, the wind changed to a southerly and moderated.

It was quite some experience and a few days later, I let out a further 20 meters of chain, just to be sure. The wind did not quite reach 35 knots, but it has been known to blow up to 40 knots in the atoll. This is when things can go horribly wrong and proof of this was lying on the reef off Fouquet, the yacht that dragged, hit the reef, and sunk!

The yacht wreck off Fouquet


Fun with the dolphins!
I love to rig up memorable moments in life. You know, we all have a special filing section in our brain labeled “Special memories and moments”. This needs to be filled to the top! One can look back on life, extract one, and savour the memory.

One afternoon Jim and Lindi were on board Shayile having coffee. Daniel came in to say there were Spinner Dolphin in the atoll and that he wanted to go see them.

Jim, Daniel, Jenna and I jumped into the ducky and headed out towards them. As we approached, they came across and joined us. Soon we had them all around us and the playing began! Spinner Dolphin love just that; spinning! As they surfed along with the ducky, they leapt out of the water, almost playing with the duck. Like kids at a fun fare, they were almost smiling as they played! Jenna was leaning over the front of the ducky, almost able to touch the dolphin. Daniel was standing, holding the rope up front and riding like a cowboy! I was driving whilst Jim held onto his coffee mug and took in all the action. Seeing those dolphins so close that you could almost touch them was unreal. Up and down we went, even drawing them in closer to Shayile where Lindi and B were. B got a few great shots of the action and, as they swam away, we headed back to Shayile. I logged that one down under “Special memories and moments”!





Fun with the dolphins


There was a clear sign developing on Shayile; a sign that our weeks were drawing to a close on Chagos. The sign : we were fast running out of provisions! Gone were the days of digging into the grocery cupboard choosing from an assortment of meal options! The bulk storage areas were empty and all the food was now in the galley and salon.

Pasta and rice we had plenty, but the small bits that make eating enjoyable and tasty had now disappeared! Further to this our diesel was down to just that needed to get us to the Maldives. Petrol was almost finished and even our clothes were looking tatty! We provisioned for 3 months on Chagos.

Something we were not running short of was water. Rain water! For the past 10 days the weather has turned and it seemed to rain most days. One reason for this was we were slap bang in the middle of the ITCZ (Doldrums). During the SE monsoons, the ITCZ moves north. Within the ITCZ, squally bad weather often occurs and often the winds are hard to predict. They can change within minutes and no anchorage is clear of a lee shore. Further to this, the weathermen had been predicting a low pressure moving through the area, bringing with it a shift in weather from the good old SE winds to NW, northerly and even NE winds.

Both Fouquet and Takamaka offer no protection in these winds and slowly the yachts anchored here, started to move back to Ile Boddam. We stayed a while longer before we upped anchor. Sabi Star, Belagear and ourselves left one morning and made our way across the atoll towards Boddam. Not only was the weather a factor, but there was a party happening on Boddam. Ron on Tigger and Bernadette on Garelec were celebrating birthdays. Virtually every yacht at Saloman was there for the occasion.

Working out that we would be at Boddam for a while, we needed to find a secure anchorage. We also needed to anticipate the predicted bad weather that was on the way and ensure we had sea space to swing and a good holding was essential. We dropped anchor twice before finding the right spot. It was someway off the island, over coral and rock.



B, relaxing in one of the camps on Fouquet


That evening we all went ashore for the party. Music and decorations were set up and the Chagos yachties partied the night away. The only drama was with poor Jenna. There was a huge swing off a coconut tree where the kids had a ball. Unfortunately Jenna walked right into the path of a swinging kid (Tito) and got hit right off her feet. B was right there and saw her get airborne! Tito’s knee connected Jenna on the upper cheek and she was in pain. It was going to be a shiner!

Later that night the wind picked up and concerned yachties started to head back to their boats. We left for Shayile with poor Jenna nursing an already swollen eye!

That night was not pleasant. The wind howled and it poured with rain! With bommies not too far away and other yachts to look out for, I did not get much sleep that night.

The whole of the next day it rained and the wind continued to blow. Everyone was doing their best to obtain an accurate weather report and establish what was predicted. I was more concerned with our holding and was keen to try find a bommie and tie up to it. The plan was to find a good strong bommie, put a chain around it and then tie up to the chain.  The next night passed off pretty much the same as the previous night. The wind picked up and blew over 30 knots. With the wind, a nasty chop developed and certainly was not a great night. Again I sat up, ensuring we did not drag, swing into another yacht or look up to find another yacht bearing down on us! I finally fell asleep in the early hours of the morning.

Next day I wanted to make a plan and get onto a bommie. Jean-Yves and I dived off Shayile and found a bommie. We then got some chain and with the help of dive tanks, dived the bommie and secured the chain around it. We also deployed another anchor now secured by 2 lines. We were now hopefully secure and I found further peace of mind in the fact that our anchor chain was 10mm thick and that Shayile weighed some 7 tons. Sabi Star had the same chain but weighed some 22 tons! Shayile had to hold!!

Throughout the day, the wind continued to blow and the rain continued to fall. I downloaded weather files from sail mail. This gave us a picture on wind directions, speed and certain pressure lines. Again this confirmed that the low pressure was approaching from the east and the winds would swing from the south east, to the west and then northerly, as the low passed below us. Fred on Peri Peri net was confirming this, although no one was quite sure on its timing or wind speed to accompany the low pressure.

Although well prepared, no serious weather or wind came from this low. We did however get a report from a yacht in Mali, Maldives, stating they had 50 knots winds, gusting 70 knots! Frightening stuff and preparation prior to bad weather arriving is the only way to survive these adverse conditions.

The weather and conditions we prefered!!

Jenna enjoying the evening on Shayile

True to word, over the next 2 days the wind picked up and I was relieved to have 2 anchors down. Amazing how much better ones sleeps!
However even with the 2 anchors, on board Shayile we rolled about and it was not that comfortable. With that we decided to move back to Fouquet where there was better protection from the strong SE winds.


B: One afternoon Christine and Donna pulled up behind Shayile and told us they were going for a walk, I set off with them and the kids for the far side of the island. We had walked along the beach this way and I had carried on and come back on this path but this was the first time at high tide late in the afternoon. The path is fabulous and winds through coconut trees, mossy stumps, closely packed skinny tree trunks and luckily is marked, thank you Yachties, by the numerous buoys that wash up on the shore. I was amazed at the amount of human refuse that washes up on the beach. Fishing nets, buoys and empty mineral water bottles abound but the most amazing is the huge quantities of slip-slops, sandals, jandals and plastic shoes. Of course all singles and mostly small. India and Sri Lanka are probably the culprits, but there must be huge amounts of plastic and rubber waste in the sea if these small islands have ‘caught’ so many. While beach combing Daniel yelled “Kingies” and sure enough there were two huge Kingfish/ Trevally surfing down the waves, obviously in pursuit of food. They were very dark in colour and were brilliant to watch, fast in pursuit and also motionless next to the rocky ledge, despite the suck and pull of the waves. We watched them for ages but eventually had to go home and tell Dad.



Feral kids playing in their "home made fort"                     

Just before we left Boddam, and with Kingy news I had received from B and Daniel, I set off fly fishing on the seaward side of the island where Daniel had spotted these fish. I found a rocky outcrop and enough space to throw a fly. The wind was not making my life easy and casting a fly in 15 – 20 knots was not enjoyable. I fished hard for an hour before the strike arrived! As I was retrieving my line, there was a huge swirl and splash about 5 meters from me! My rod went down and I had a hook up! The line screamed through my fingers, peeling out of my stripping basket as it followed the fishes escape route; straight out to sea. This fish was huge and terrifically powerful. I could not get the rod up as it stripped line. I was screaming as, within seconds, it had 150 meters on me and was heading for the reef! Soon I felt the ominous scraping of line over rock. The fish slowed and stopped. As if knowing what would happen next, it took off again and with that I felt the reef once again and then the line then parted! It was gone! I reeled in the line, but there was no disappointment on my part. I had hooked into a bus, felt the take and the run. Having a fish that big on a 12 weight rod was unreal and, no, I was not too disappointed in loosing it. It was definitely a GT (Giant Trevally) and I walked back to the camp with a smile on my face!


But now we were keen to move back to Fouquet. B and I prepared Shayile and, in some 20 – 25 knots of wind, we tried to lift the anchors. The main anchor came up without issues, but the second anchor would have nothing of it. It remained fast to the coral. We called Heinz on Papagena and he and Robert on Emma Peel came across and assisted us in getting it up.  It had wrapped around a bommie, making getting it up by hand kind of difficult. Eventually it came loose and with that we motored to Fouquet, registering 31 knots maximum wind speed whilst crossing!

At Fouquet, we anchored off in about 16 meters of water and although we could feel the wind, it was flat water and the wind less effective. What a pleasure to be back!
We realized we had left Boddam for the last time and this would be our last week or 2 in Chagos. Kinda sad hey!


Our, now tatty, SA flag


B: While chatting about what we were looking forward to in ‘civilization’, Rob mentioned he was looking forward to reading a menu. Two nights later we arrive for supper on Moonlighter to a sit down meal with a long and delicious menu. The children had a lovely time making tents in the saloon and fell asleep underneath it. Jim has grandchildren the same age as Dan and Jen and he was wonderful at teaching them all sorts of things.

One day they went over to learn how to make bread. Jim explained that the yeast eats up the sugar and farts out the gas that makes the dough rise. They will never forget that. Jim was a lumberjack in his youth and still has one of his original axes, he calls it the ‘Forest Razor’ and it is exactly that sharp. We watched him sharpen it, shave a little and later he cut some hair and sliced some bread, it is one versatile tool. Lindy is a trained teacher and was also great with our kids, keeping a good balance of friendly and available but also giving them boundaries. We know that they are in very good hands with Jim and Lindy and appreciated all the times they schooled and entertained them.


Jim teaching the kids about bread making
Jens relaxing with Jim and Lindi                   



Our good friends Jim and Lindi on board Shayile

Just up from Fouquet was a small island and the Erias family and ourselves went there for the day. Young Manu just loved fishing and joined me in search of Trevelli. (Kingfish) We spotted them and then got to work. Within minutes I was on to my first fish, a Blue Finned Travelli. Over the next hour or so I landed 5, keeping 4 for the pot. Manu caught 2 and really enjoyed his day of fishing. Introducing him to fly fishing was great and he really enjoyed it! The island was explored and a relaxing day was had by all.


Daniel and Tito in a “swimming pool”


B: While at Takamaka we spent many wonderful evening on Moonlighter and Sabi Star. Jim (Canada) and Lindy (Australia) on Moonlighter are great company and have a lovely homely boat with a couch in it! Lindy always whipped up fabulous trays of sundowner snacks and Jim plied us with rum and cokes. Lindy and I are the same age and get on great guns; we also like to sneak off together for a sneaky cigarette!

Best of all Lindy was so kind as to use her teaching skills and had Dan and Jens over once a week for a lesson. Brilliant! We looked forward to spending more time together in South East Asia. Ian and Christine on Sabi Star with their daughter Donna (24), a nurse on a long holiday, were also great, generous folk. Sundowners on their boat were rather dangerous as Ian played the “Guess which liqueur this is?” game. Ouch, but great fun! Sabi Star is the national flower of Zimbabwe where Ian and Christine were born and raised but immigrated to Australia shortly after their first child and before Donna was born.


Rob, diving for Moonlighter’s tender


A little funny occurrence! One morning I got a strange call on the radio from Jim on Moonlighter. I jumped in the duck wondering why Jim wanted me to visit him without explaining on the radio.
On arriving Jim sheepishly told me what had happened. Whilst in his small tender, deploying a second anchor about 50 meters from Moonlighter, things happened! A slip of events, too much weight in the wrong place, and over went the tender. With chain and anchor on board, it sank like a stone leaving Jim treading water! Tender gone to the bottom, with the engine!

First we needed to find her and next rescue her from the sea bed. Unfortunately it was deep, perhaps 15 or 20 meters.
I swam out and dived the area looking for baby moonlighter! It was not easy and the water was murky. Eventually I spotted her but she was too deep for a free five rescue.

I called on Sabi Star where there was dive equipment and Donna kindly offered to assist. Jean Yves then joined the search and rescue party.
Kitted out we went over in search of the tender. We found her, sitting firmly on her engine with bow straight up! We attached a few ropes and then the work of hauling her to the surface commenced.
Within ½ hour she was on the beach, drying out! A rather embarrassing moment for Jim but he did laugh about it, seeing the funny side of the situation!


Baby Moonlighter rescued!

Over the next few days I spent the time getting Shayile ready for departure. The rudders needed tensioning and Jim on Moonlighter kindly assisted me in taking up some slack on the rudders. I got bit of a shock when we took in about 2 feet of slack cable! With the tensioning done, I found the rudders alignment now out. They now needed drilling and re-aligning, a task which would have to wait until we got to Gan in the Maldives.

(Gan is a town on the atoll of Addu in the Maldives.) 

I also went up the mast and checked all rigging and then dived Shayile and gave her bottom a good scrubbing. I wanted no resistance as we crossed the vast Indian Ocean! We also did some last minute washing, coconut gathering, and a last visit to the islands. A quick change of engine oil and a chat into the engines ears, we were now ready to depart Chagos!

Just before leaving, B developed terrible toothache. Without access to a dentist, we needed to make a plan. One of the other yachts anchored close by had a “do it yourself” dentist kit. What they did not have was the filling - the metal stuff!! Improvising, I got to work. Taking some apoxy I had on board, I brewed a mix. With B positioned, I got to work, filling her tooth with some epoxy. It did the job and with a new career in mind, I packed away my tools whilst B went off happy with her new filling!


Nadine’s birthday, just before departing Chagos

Just before leaving, we celebrated Nadine’s birthday. Everyone gathered at the Takamaka camp and we again had a festive time, eating, drinking, chatting and socializing the night away.

A few new yachts had also arrived and we shared a few experiences and travel stories. An interesting couple was Mark and Frazer from New Foundland. They had built their own steel yacht at home and set off for South America. They spent a number of years working off the southern tip of South America, gathering information for scientists. They had some wonderful experiences to share on their travels down in the Antarctic Circle. It made our tropical sailing seem like the easy route! One is constantly humbled by others’ and their experiences, but then again, this is a lesson in life!

We were now ready to depart. Erias left a day before us as we just had not quite got our act together! Typical Shayile, but I needed to be assured that everything was just right for the 3 day crossing to the Maldives.

            The kids taking a last swim at Takamaka


On the last night Jim and Lindi on Moonlighter and Ian, Christine and Donna on Sabi Star joined us for drinks and dinner. We chatted the night away discussing future plans and travel arrangements. A wonderful night was had by all and to enjoy our last night at Chagos with the “Moonlighters” and “Sabis” was special. They really had made our stay an unforgettable one. B and I went to bed that night, sad to be leaving this wonderful place, but knowing it was the right time and we needed to move on.


Dan, thanking Ian, and saying goodbye

Next morning, after a few more minor rudder adjustments, we pulled up the rubber duck and secured everything on Shayile. I pulled out the charts for Chagos, the crossing to Addu and one on the atoll of Addu itself. Each would assist us in navigating ourselves out of Chagos and across to the Maldives.

The engines were started and all electronic equipment turned on. Just before lifting the anchor, we got onto the VHF radio and said goodbye to those yachts left at Chagos. As the good luck and farewell replies came back, we swallowed those lumps in the throat (a few times!) and thanked everyone for making our Chagos adventure such a wonderful life experience. With that B went up front and we lifted the anchor. We motored past Moonlighter where Lindy gave us a send off by blowing into her conch. We replied on our horn and waved goodbye. (Moonlighter were going to follow in a week or 2) Then past Sabi for the same horn blowing session, before heading across the atoll towards the pass. B went up front checking for bommies and we crossed the bar at the pass heading out into the open ocean, sailing again for the first time in 3 months!

We promised each other that, given the opportunity, we would be back in Chagos, rather sooner than later! However it is a big world with lots to see and we needed to move again.













Monday 22 May 2006

Chagos (Peros Banhos & Salomon Atolls)



Salomon Atoll
The Salomon Atoll is the second atoll frequented by the majority of yachties that call on Chagos. With the imminent arrival of the SE trade winds around mid May, most yachties head this way.

It is a lot smaller than Peros Bahnos, being some 5 to 7 miles in diameter. Again, it consists of a number of small islands in a circle. The only entrance is through the northern gap at Ile de la Passé. Being a narrow pass, it is not an easy entrance and one has to be very careful manuvoring over the bar. It’s shallow, and there were numerous coral bommies to make the entry that much trickier!

We approached the entrance and pulled in our fishing lines. No fish this time. We then made our way carefully over the bar, avoiding the coral bommies and reefs. Just ahead of us was Erias. They were heading for the first island as one enters the atoll being Ile Anglaise. The majority of the French boats were anchored off there and Jean-Yves and Nadine were keen to catch up with them. We passed them by saying goodbye and telling them that we were heading up to Ile Boddam.

It was at this stage that B and I smelt a small electrical burning smell permeating from the starboard engine. I immediately shut it down. Although not too serious, (I mean it was only an electrical burn out somewhere!!!) I decided to continue sailing up to Ile Boddam and we could sort out the problem when we got there.

It was an interesting sail across the atoll. The whole interior of the atoll is littered with bommies.  Some are only 2 meters in diameter and others some 20 meters across. It is difficult to estimate their depth so all are avoided. We weaved our way amongst them slowly making our way up to Ile Boddam. Looking ahead towards the anchorage at Ile Boddam, we could count some 25 yachts and this was where the majorities of the yachts anchor and socialized. Once the SE winds become too strong and the anchorage becomes uncomfortable, most of the yachts head down to Ile Takamaka and Ile Fouquet, 2 smaller islands within the Salomon atoll.

One of the smaller islands within Salomon

To orientate readers with the Salomon atoll; we came in through the pass in the North of the atoll. Lying to our starboard was Ile Anglaise and heading in a SW direction was Ile Boddam. From the pass, Ile Fouquet and Ile Takamaka were in a southerly direction.  
Slowly we crept into the “Yacht Club” at Boddam. It was a fantastic sight! Here we were in this atoll in the middle of the Indian Ocean and tucked away in the lee of Boddam were some 20 – 25 yachts, anchored in amongst the numerous bommies heads. It was a beautiful sight! Well, some may say there were too many yachts and they may be right, but this amounted to some 50 odd people. Many stuck to themselves enjoying the solitude of the islands. Others enjoy the socializing and a few were hardly ever seen!

It was a great collection of yachts of every design, type and size. The majority of the yachts were mono-hulls, with only 3 or 4 catamarans and one trimaran.
We found ourselves a spot amongst the other yachts and dropped our anchor in about 10 meters of water. Anchored just behind us was the yacht, Iron Lady, and we could see a young child in mothers arms. We were in the right spot! As we backed up I heard the familiar sound of anchor and chain scraping on rock and coral. With us firmly in place I decided to dive the anchor and ensure all was ok. Sure enough, the anchor had somehow landed on sand but all around was rock and coral. The anchor was going no where. On went the bridle and we switched off the engine.


The anchorage off Boddam


Ile Boddam
Ile Boddam was to be our “home” for the next few weeks. The island itself is kind of banana shaped, with us anchored in the lee. Jutting out from the island was a pier and behind that the remains of a settlement. All this needed to be explored!
We did a quick tidy up of Shayile, dropped the rubber duck and headed to the beach.

At 4pm every afternoon, many of the yachties went ashore for sundowners and to play volleyball. We got ourselves together and headed in where we introduced ourselves to the many new faces and greeted the familiar faces; amongst them Heinz and Patricia on Papagena a catamaran, Peter on Belagear, Ian and Elizabeth on Ad Astra and Kim and Sinead on Rival Chief.
Soon Belinda and I were on the volleyball court giving it a full go. We socialized late into the night catching up with everyone before heading back to Shayile and bed.
With our water supply now running low, I needed to fill the tanks again. I went ashore and found the wells. Nearby were 2 metal water tanks that caught water from an old shed roof. These tanks stored rain water and were for drinking only. The well water was for washing. Whilst filling my jerry cans I met Neil and Nancy were from the West Coast of America, Seattle area. We also met Grie and Bert from the Netherlands. Both couples had been at sea for many years and we caught up on a few travel notes whilst our cans filled with water.

Once back on Shayile, I constructed a hose system whereby I could filter the water just collected through my, now redundant, water maker filters. It worked very well and soon all the water was filtered and into the tanks. A dash of Jik (bleach) in each tank and the task completed. (On the filtering issue, we did filter the water again using a Brita water filter just before drinking.)

Deserted beaches are our best!!

 
The 5th May arrived and the infamous Chagos Mexican party was on the cards for that evening. Apparently it was an annual affair with the owners of the yacht “Mr Curly”, Richard and Cathy, supplying bottles of tequila for everyone.

That evening we all got dressed up in our best Mexican outfits and headed for the party. We anchored Baby Shayile amongst the other tenders and made our way through the coconut trees to the party. We were greeted by a festivity fit for Paris Hilton! There was even a bar set up Mexican style, with tequila laid out for everyone. There was food for kings and Mexican music coming from the hi-fi set rigged up to a generator some place! Balloons were hanging everywhere and what a collection of colourful dresses and Mexican wear! What some people carry around with them on a yacht amazed me! B and I bellied up to the bar, threw the salt over our shoulders, downed the tequila and squirted each other with the lemon. Let the party begin!


                        Pete, B and Lindi - The Mexican Party!


Party time – Rob & Pete

It was a festive night and it great to be amongst the true yachtie fraternity in Chagos. The majority of these people sailed as a way of life. Many of them had been doing it for 20 years and more. This was the way they lived, socialized and grew old! Such interesting people to be with and we all partied on well into the morning before making our way back to Shayile.


B: Before leaving SA, I was very firm about my children being in bed around 7pm but those days are long gone. Most socializing happens late in the afternoon when the sun loses its heat and usually bedtime is around 8pm but at this anchorage where, every occasion was celebrated, that went by the wayside. The added complication was that children couldn’t lie on a blanket on the sand as huge coconut crabs came creeping out of the bush and rats were regular visitors too. Jenna occasionally succumbed to fatigue and fell asleep in a lap but Dan could keep going until midnight. Luckily school hours are fairly flexible ie. as soon as we are all awake and have had some breakfast. The downside is that now they know exactly what adults do after hours; they drink alcohol; talk sh*t and laugh loudly. At least now they know they aren’t missing anything. Sadly this year had the fewest number of children at Chagos in many years, but at least the swing was always free and the adults still found them delightful.

 Repairing outboard engines on Boddum – Jenna & Jim


High on my list of things to do was, 1. Fix the alternators (the electrical problem experienced coming across the atoll) and 2. Go fishing! Fishing I could do but fixing alternators was so far down my list of skills, open heart surgery may have been easier to perform! Yachties to the rescue! Walter on Sea Fever II was an electrical fundi and very familiar with alternators. He came across to Shayile and, with me making mental notes, he got to work. The problem was identified as a major short, a loose alternator and worn pulleys. All contributed towards its non performance. Within an hour Walter had it fixed and then went on to check the other one. With both alternators working like a charm, Walter left Shayile with a bottle of rum, a few greenbacks and some cruising notes I had collected on Africa. I really found it amazing how there was always someone in the know, to assist those who do not know. Really special and I was indebted to those sailors who had so often stepped in and assisted me with a problem I could not fix myself.

Well, I could fish, and this was next on my things to do! The best fishing for game fish was outside the reef, trawling on a rubber duck. My knowledge on fishing was to do it with a rod and reel. At Chagos I was exposed to the hand line technique. A large spool of line with a lure firmly attached at the end. What amazed me was the strength and size of the line used. Some were using 200kg “rope”, with 100 kg breaking strain leaders. When a fish took the lure and was well hooked, it did not stand a chance. It was literally winched in by hand. An amazing technique and highly successful. When in Chagos, it’s about food, and catching fish was of absolute importance. The fish needed to be caught and brought in as quickly as possible. Sport fishing was not an option.

I on the other hand prefer the feel of a big fish on a rod and reel. I like to feel the fish, fight it and bring it in. Nothing against it, but hand line fishing was not for me and I continued to fish with rod and reel!

A Wahoo caught off Boddam

Within the first week I had bagged a couple of Wahoo and 3 Tuna. I had also lost many, including a few lures. There were some large fish out there and losing them was part of the game; yes, even with a hand line, many got away.
One day I went out by myself and soon I was in to a big fish. After a lengthy fight I discovered it was a White Tipped Shark! I did everything possible to try shake the lure but to no avail. Because I could ill afford to loose another lure, the shark had to come along. I did my best to clear the duck of most loose lying equipment and then heaved the shark on board. It was not that big, about 1.5meters, but as it hit the ducky floor, it was not happy. It thrashed about like crazy and I was in trouble. At times I was even perched on the pontoons, hanging onto the engine, whilst the shark twisted and performed. I even took the petrol tank and managed to jam the shark in. With it mildly under control, I set off for the shore. Every so often it thrashed about, with me resorting to pirouettes on the engine cover as I was not keen for my feet to be around a thrashing shark! Once ashore I managed to retrieve the lure, sadly at the cost of one shark.  

Each afternoon when fish were caught, they were brought back to shore where they were gutted, cleaned and filleted. The left over carcasses were gathered and a shark meal prepared. All of the scraps were taken to the old pier and thrown into the water where the sharks were ready for it. Years of this daily routing had taught the sharks to hover around this area. It was an unbelievable, yet scary sight! The sharks, mostly Black Tipped and Nurse Sharks, went into a feeding frenzy and devoured the morsels of fish remains. They would often come right out the water seeking food. Norbert from the yacht Pamela, tied a few of the bigger carcasses to a line and fed the sharks on a hand line. It was amazing to see Norbert hanging on as the sharks fed. Daniel and Jenna, stood and watched in awe as I got busy with the video camera.
Dan and a Hermit crab at the parking lot off Boddam


Every evening at about 4pm, many of the yachties made their way ashore for a game of volleyball time, followed by sundowners and even dinner. It was great to get involved with volleyball with everyone getting some much required exercise. As those on the volleyball court battled it out, others sat around and socialized, talking about yacht repairs, cruising stories and more about fixing yachts!

The camp was well laid out on Boddam. Using the remains of an old building as a kind of storeroom, there was the volleyball court outside and numerous cooking facilities. There was a fire area for a traditional braai and next to it were 2 smoker facilities. One was a hot smoker and the other a cold smoker. (Hot smoker – direct heat and smoke, cold smoker – indirect heat and smoke, may be the best way to describe them) There was also a bread oven. Central to these facilities was the sitting area made up of logs and make shift benches. Looking down on this set up were numerous coconut trees and someone had even constructed a coconut opener. This comprised of a metal stake used to prize open coconuts.
At this camp, everything was available to make life as comfortable as possible! 

Daniel and Jenna were the “soul” to Boddam. Unfortunately there were no other kids at Boddam to play with, so they pretty much had to entertain themselves. Everyone got to know them and they were great to have around. They had a great beach and people, albeit adults, to play with. Each evening they were entertained by others and often taken on walks into the interior of the island by other adults, no doubt many missing their grand children back home.
Soon Dan and Jens were taking us on long walks visiting the many old ruins on the island. They took me to see the jail with its 4 cells and thick walls. We saw the hospital, still with a few bed pans lying around and the old church which had been cleaned out. It still had a few pains of stained glass in the windows! We also saw an abandoned camp where a sailor had to spend quite some time when his yacht was wrecked on Chagos. There were so many fascinating places to check out and Dan and Jens did a great job as tour guides to me and many other yachties. 


The Boulle Championships!
Party time again and this time it was the Chagos annual Boulle Championship. We all gathered at the French Camp, (A beach frequented by the French yachties) armed with food, drink and boulle skills. I cannot tell you how pleasantly surprised I was at each gathering where food was brought along to be shared out. The spread was unreal and how people concocted the kind of dishes I saw, I will never know.

As the afternoon went on, the boulle games continued and soon it was down to the finals. Yes, yours truly, was in the final, up against American Jack. Gathering all my boulle talents learned from my Ufudu Fly-fishing days, I managed to secure the winning trophy, beating Jack in a closely fought final. The trophy – a blow up plastic windmill hat, with the winning flags on it from winners gone by!!
Another great evening was had by all! 


Life at Ile Boddam rolled on and the days slipped by without time being a concern. It really was amazing how time means absolutely nothing out in paradise. Be it Friday, Sunday or Tuesday; 8am or 3pm. Who cared or wanted to know. We honestly lost all track of time and this added to the pleasure of being at Chagos. We were truly living a timeless way of life.


The “parking lot” & book swap day on Boddam


Fishing time again and Michael on Iron Lady, and I set off on another food finding mission. Into the IRB and out we headed over the reef and into the open sea. We then released out lures and motored up the reef, waiting for the strike. Soon I was on with my reel spinning as the fish took line. It was not a big fish and I recognised it as a Bonito. As I reeled it in I saw the shark attack! It came in from the right hand side at high speed. I tried to reel faster but it was no good. I felt the tug as the shark struck. Again I reeled in and soon I had a shredded Bonito in the boat. For some reason the shark had not bitten the Bonny but shredded it with its teeth. It looked like it had been through a grater! The lines went back out and an hour later I had 2 big Yellow Finned Tuna to my name. A fantastic fighting fish and very heavy! We headed back to the Yacht Club with our catch. After cleaning and filleting them, we shared the fish out to those yachties anchored around us, and then headed back to Shayile. First on the menu was sushi starter, followed by seared tuna rolled in sesame seeds!

 Catch of the season!

As the days passed by, the winds slowly changed to south easterlies. These winds start in about May and blow through until November. With the SE winds, Boddam would become uncomfortable and better shelter would be found at Ile Takamaka.


B: Some of my favourite memories of Boddam will be the times I spent ashore baking bread and coconut biscuits in an old rectangular tin ‘oven’ over an open fire. Irish Sinead showed me the ropes the first time and it was always a nice, quiet, longwinded affair, sitting in deck chairs, stoking the fire and chatting. Jim was usually tinkering with his outboard, Lindy often roasted coffee beans and peanuts in a pan and the children played for hours on the shore about 8m away. Sinead toasted her muesli in a pan following my mom Sally’s recipe, great way to save gas! The camp was rustic but homely and deck chairs provided an element of comfort. The only sad part is how much time I spent preparing food and how quickly it all disappeared. We were long since out of biscuits and sweet treats so I had to make regular batches of biscuits. Diesel had to be saved so the fridge was turned off (just used the top of the freezer) and the bread machine was forbidden. Washing laundry for a family of four is no joke but when you also have to haul the water up 2m in a bucket from the well, it becomes strictly a labour of love! The only good news was that the well was only 12m from the shore and in an open dry area so the mosquitos were only irritating, not hazardous. I realized the best thing was to hang the washing in the evening and it would be dry before lunch, if it didn’t rain or get blown overboard in the night. Sheets and towels are a real pain and everything we own is now faded, stained and tatty looking. No wonder people talk about ‘grotty yachties’ but sometimes it is unavoidable!


Lindi roasting coffee beans


B and Sinead cooking bread


Just before leaving Boddam, the whole family went for another dive off one of the bommies in the atoll. We kitted up and took the ducky across to the chosen bommies, not too far from Shayile. We went over the side swimming through the alleys of coral bommies. The coral was amazing, as it is in the atoll and the fish plentiful. I kept a careful lookout for sharks. As the family gently made our way along, slowly enjoying the scene, I spotted a Black Tipped Shark. It swam around a few times before moving off. On we swam but a few minutes later we were joined by another Black Tip. This one would not leave us alone and kept swimming around, inquisitive as to why we were there. We all stuck close together, swimming slowly but eying the shark out. Unfortunately it started to get “brave” and came in closer and closer. With a twitchy shark in the area, we decided it was time to leave its turf and we head back to the duck. Although I was quite sure it would not hassle us in any way, B and I were not comfortable with Dan and Jenna with us. These 2 just loved to swim off alone and we had to watch them carefully, especially with Uncle Johnny swimming close by! We climbed back onto the duck and headed back to Shayile. Fortunately, I had taken a few good photos of the sharks. Again I must reiterate that these sharks were not out to attack. They were more inquisitive than anything, but we had to be careful. A lady was bitten on the foot by a shark the previous year whilst wading in knee deep water.

As mentioned, the folks anchored at Boddam really enjoyed having Daniel and Jenna around. Being the only 2 kids there, they got the attention, especially from the older folks. They were taken on walks around the island, played with on the beach and spoilt at the socials. Particularly good to them was Nynke on Yacht Walrus. She took them for walks around the island following the many paths and exploring. They had picnics in the coconut trees and looked for shells. They came back to Shayile with all sorts of treasures and were even taught a few new rhymes by Lynke. The 2 of them certainly touched a few hearts and on more than one occasion, stole the show! B and I noticed how Daniel was gaining in confidence as he interacted with adults. He was not scared to put his views across and go into deep explanation about the movies he had watched. Dan had an unbelievable memory and could recite line for line extracts from movies he has seen. By throwing in a bit of acting himself, the adults were kept amused by his antics.


The volley ball court and evening meeting place


Finally it was time to move across to Ile Takamaka.  We had spent some 3 weeks anchored off Boddam, socializing, fishing, exploring and trying to relax. I say “trying to relax” because with so many yachts around and socials happening all the time, it was not always easy to take time out to relax! B will back me up here. If we aren’t cleaning Shayile, clothes, dishes, cooking food or drinking coffee, it was playing volleyball and having get togethers!


B: Volleyball was the one area where I was selfish. I loved the games which were physical and often witty and challenging. It was a time where I wasn’t interested in the children or Rob, I felt fit and strong from all my physical labours and being taller, bigger and stronger is an advantage on the sand court and I loved it.

We prepared Shayile and pulled up the anchor. Soon we were on our way to Takamaka, dodging big coral bommies that could rip out the bottom of the boat.

Ile Takamaka & Ile Fouquet
Making our way out of the Boddam anchorage and heading across to Takamaka was not a straight forward motor sail. As mentioned, there were bommies scattered about and we had to keep a careful lookout. Belinda stayed up front looking for bommies as I steered us out and across the atoll.

It was not a long way and within ½ an hour, we were looking for a spot just off Ile Fouquet. (Ile Takamaka and Fouquet are right next to each other, separated by a channel coming into the atoll from the open ocean)

We found a gap between the yachts Sabi Star, Pamela and Ostrica (Little Oyster). The anchor went down and we were set in about 23 meters of water; quite a deep anchorage. It is best to try avoiding deep anchorages if possible. Besides the fact that one has to let out a lot of chain; should the anchor foul up down there, it is not possible to free dive 23 meters and then release the anchor from around bommies of coral! One could lose an anchor and chain if it happened. This time however we did not have an option. There were coral reefs and bommies all around the island and it was unfortunately deep at the anchorage spots.

Proof of disaster showed itself to us. About 80 meters in front of us, just off a bommie was a yacht wreck. In 2005, this yacht was anchored off. The wind changed direction and blew extremely hard and within no time they were dragging anchor and struck a bommie. Being a ferrous cement yacht, it was holed on the port side from the sharp coral and began to sink. Every effort was made to try get her off the reef but unfortunately it failed. She floundered and sank. Most of the possessions and equipment on board was removed before she sank completely. A very sad day for the family on board and a sobering experience to other yachts there that day. The weather can change in an instant so good holding at anchorage, and having sea space, is vital. (Not being anchored too close to rocks)

With our anchor down, we were positioned for the next 6 – 8 weeks.




Takamaka and the anchorage

After a few days of quiet relaxing and enjoying ourselves, the Pacific Marlin arrived in Salomon. This vessel takes care of the Chagos Islands, policing the area and ensuring there are no illegal fishing boats fishing the Chagos archipelago. With the crew of the Marlin at sea for days on end, they enjoy calling in and spending a few days in Salomon. Here they are able to join the yachties, play volleyball and socialise together.

This visit however, was different. An IRB from the Marlin called on each yacht in the anchorage inviting us all for a braai that evening on board the Marlin. There was much excitement! Beer and meat was on the menu, a complete luxury for many in Chagos!

That afternoon everyone started to make their way across the atoll in their tenders to where the Marlin was anchored.  I put out a message to a few yachts around informing them that I would take Shayile. It would save having to all go across in our own tenders and, besides, it would be a lot more comfortable and easier! About 12 fellow yachties anchored close to Shayile, joined us on board and we all motored across to the Marlin. I used my chart plotter and put in waypoints all the way across the atoll to the Marlin. It would be dark when we returned and we needed to know exactly where to go in order to miss the bommies.

Basket ball on board the Pacific Marlin

When we got to the Marlin, they threw us a rope and we tied up behind. Everyone was ferried across to the Marlin and the party began. The spread laid on was unbelievable! Fresh salads on the tables and meat to feed an army. Pork, beef, bacon, chicken; it was all there for us to feast on!  Behind the Marlin, Shayile swung about on the rope attached to her bow. At times I was quite apprehensive about her as she was swinging through 180 degrees behind the Marlin. The wind had picked up and so had the sea. Nothing serious but Shayile was like a restless dog trying to shake her leash. Back and forth she swung, whilst on board the Marlin, everyone was tucking into meat and beer like it was their last meal! The meat was unbelievable! The chef had done a fine task and as the meat came off the braai, it was devoured by hungry yachties and the Marlin crew. There were 6 kids on board. Daniel and Jenna and 4 French kids, including Manu and Tito. They had a great time being shown around the ship. The crew took them up to the bridge and showed them where the captain sat. They were shown the gym, sleeping quarters and TV room and, down below, where they played darts and basketball. They were given gifts and best of all, sweets and all the ice cream they could eat! They had an absolute ball on board the Marlin!

The adults kept consuming vast quantities of beer, wine and meat, and washed it all down with plates of ice cream! Everyone mixed and mingled, danced to music and chatted to the Marlin crew. An unforgettable evening!

All too soon it was time to head back to our anchorage. With full bellies and big smiles, everyone said their thanks and goodbyes. Daniel and Jenna had made Captain Bob of the Marlin thank you cards. These were handed across to him and then it was back to Shayile. Only now we had more passengers for the trip home. As the weather conditions got worse, those trying to battle home against the wind in their small tenders, opted for Shayile! Soon we had a lot more passengers on board. About 6 tenders were tied up behind Shayile and 27 people on board! Far too many from a safely point of view but, as it was not a long trip, we took the chance and set off. I put Shayile on auto pilot and retracted the passage across the atoll following the way points back to our anchorage off Ile Fouquet.

Back at the anchorage many stayed on board and the party continued well after mid night. It was great to have everyone on board Shayile having a great time!

The life on Shayile!

Between the islands of Fouquet and Takamaka is a channel. The sea water funnels in between these 2 islands over some great coral. With the water only ever flowing into the atoll between these 2 islands and never running “out” through this channel, it is a great place to dive. By taking the tender as far as you can up the channel, one can drift dive the whole way back down “into” the atoll, enjoying great sea life beneath the crystal clear water. With it being totally un-spoilt, untouched and with plenty of marine life to watch, we all did this quite a few times. The kids loved it and it was extremely safe. One day we drifted over some Nurse Sharks as they “slept” totally unaware of our presence, or not concerned at all!

Again, each evening there was volleyball on Fouquet for those wanting a bit of exercise.

On Takamaka, there was no volleyball court but it had a great camp with lots of areas to socialize. It even had a crude pizza oven put together. Every so often a few would gather at the oven and bake bread all day. All the ingredients were taken ashore, bread dough prepared and then baked in the oven whilst everyone caught up on the gossip!
Just a short walk through the coconut trees from the camp, was the well and washing area. Again, yachties would gather with their washing and spend a few hours doing the laundry! More gossip, more “yacht club scandal” and this there was plenty of!!
This was a simple life, really getting back to basic living. Making bread, washing, catching meals and eating ashore, cooking on fires. What a great existence!

B back on board after a morning of washing

B: Yes, a great existence if you aren’t the one doing all the preparing, washing, kneading, baking and collecting of wood for the fire! Just as I have remained totally ‘ignorant’ of how to gut and fillet fish so has Rob remained ‘Domestically Challenged’ and has limited his efforts to hanging or taking down washing, probably only because they made his yacht look tatty.  Catching meals was Rob’s job but after the game fish disappeared, no-one knows why, he stopped fishing. He thinks reef/ bottom fishing is for ‘dummies’ too easy and I suspect its because reef fish, with scales and being smaller, are more hassle to clean that huge game fish. Fly fishing is a great sport but often no catch returns home, either because they were too small, too big, too beautiful and even too ugly! Thank goodness for the freezer because much to my surprise Rob is selective hunter gatherer, he says “I’m not that desperate” but I was. Surrounded by fish we often had tinned tuna for lunch!

Fishing at Taka Maka was not quite as easy as Boddam. We had to cross the atoll by IRB and then exit through the pass to reach the open ocean. On 2 occasions Norbert on Pamela and I went out and fished. Unfortunately the results were less than successful. The fish had gone off the bite and nothing was being caught by anyone. The occasional coral trout, (rock cod) were caught bottom fishing, but no game fish at all. Fishing down this neck of the woods was just not the same!


With water on Shayile running low, we soon needed to head back to Boddam to full our tanks with drinking water. At Takamaka the water was not quite as palatable. Although after a good filtering it would be ok, it just did not taste or smell too good! We needed to head back to Boddam and fill the tanks.

Hermit crab with its "Coconut Shell" House


We upped anchor and motored off towards Boddam. Now, again, my good old engines were not playing the game. The port engine was not achieving full revs and did not sound its normal self. I had to work on the starboard engine fixing, (you guessed it) water pump hoses. Half way across the atoll the port engine suddenly stopped and I could not start it. Even whilst trying to start, it sounded sick. Now what?  After dropping anchor at Boddam, I put my head in the engine room to try seeing if there was anything “different”. All looked ok to me but she sounded terrible when trying to start. I gave Ian on Sabi Star a call, and explained the situation. Ian had already assisted me with a bit of work on my water pumps and he certainly knew about diesel engines. After explaining the problem to Ian, he said we could look into it as soon as I got back to Takamaka. (I still had one good engine!)

Next morning I started with the water and went ashore with jerry cans, filled them at the tank and then returned to Shayile. It took pretty much most of the day to complete the task but we did it. Full water tanks again and my gym work out completed!

Anchored close by was Iron Lady with Michael, Natalie and young Maya on board. Michael enjoyed fishing and we had gone out a few times previously together. That afternoon we got our fishing tackle together and headed out over the reef on the IRB. I had no sooner put my lure over the side and next thing the reel was humming. I was on to a strong fish! We cut the engine and Michael reeled his lure in whilst I fought the fish. Within 10 minutes I had an 8 – 10 kg Tuna alongside the duck. Michael gaffed it and onto the boat it went. On we went and next it was Michaels turn. He brought in 2 Bonito in quick succession. Then Michael was into a Tuna. As it came along side I leaned over to gaff it. As I sank the gaff, the Tuna took off, yanking the gaff from my grip. Fortunately it came out and I was able to retrieve the gaff. Second time lucky and I got the Tuna onto the duck. Next up I hooked a Bonito and as I brought it in, I felt a little tug on the line and an impact in the water not too far off. A shark had taken the bonny. All that was left was the head! On we fished and soon I was in again only this time I realized it was no ordinary fish. It took the lure and sped off at high speed, the reel spinning incredibly quickly. As it slowed down, I felt the reel. It was cooking hot! Then the fight began and for a good 20 minutes I worked hard at holding the rod and playing the fish. It had gone deep, a sure sign it was a Tuna, and a big one! Slowly it rose to the surface and we got our first glimpse of it. A huge Yellow Finned Tuna! As it came along side, Michael leaned over to gaff it. As with my gaffing, he followed suit. Gaffed it and then the fish took off with the gaff in tow! Again the gaff came out and we were able to retrieve it. The fish swam behind the engine and jammed itself in. Perhaps just as well as circling around not far off was a shark. Both Michael and I worked hard to get it on board. A massive fish and I just sat there staring at this beautiful Tuna. It was fat and over 1 meter in length. Time to go home and we headed on back to Boddam.

With the fish filleted, we handed out pieces to those yachties anchored around us. It had been a good 2 – 3 weeks of no fish and the Tuna was most welcome. Another great days fishing.


Meals for a few days!


Although we now had fish on board, we had also given a lot away. We could do with more as we had none to pickle. (That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it!)

A day later, Michael and I grabbed our tackle and headed out across the reef. Within 15 minutes I had a fish on. This time a Wahoo. Fighting a Wahoo is exhilarating! It takes off with speed, then tapers off and ends with a few great runs. They are perhaps the fastest fish out there and a brilliant game fish to catch. The line actually hums as the Wahoo takes off through the water. Unbelievable! Anyway after a good 10 minutes I had it on board.

Michael also hooked and landed a Wahoo slightly smaller than mine. On we fished and as we were turning for home, both of us hooked into fish. Unfortunately my reel jammed and as the fish pulled, asking for more line, the reel jammed solid and seconds later I felt the line part. Fish and lure gone! Michael got his in, another Tuna. With 2 Wahoo and a Tuna we returned to Boddam. Enough fish to pickle!


 Ile Takamaka anchorage