Salomon Atoll
It is a lot smaller than Peros Bahnos, being some 5 to 7 miles in diameter. Again, it consists of a number of small islands in a circle. The only entrance is through the northern gap at Ile de la Passé. Being a narrow pass, it is not an easy entrance and one has to be very careful manuvoring over the bar. It’s shallow, and there were numerous coral bommies to make the entry that much trickier!
We approached the entrance and pulled in our fishing lines. No fish this time. We then made our way carefully over the bar, avoiding the coral bommies and reefs. Just ahead of us was Erias. They were heading for the first island as one enters the atoll being Ile Anglaise. The majority of the French boats were anchored off there and Jean-Yves and Nadine were keen to catch up with them. We passed them by saying goodbye and telling them that we were heading up to Ile Boddam.
It was at this stage that B and I smelt a small electrical burning smell permeating from the starboard engine. I immediately shut it down. Although not too serious, (I mean it was only an electrical burn out somewhere!!!) I decided to continue sailing up to Ile Boddam and we could sort out the problem when we got there.
It was an interesting sail across the atoll. The whole interior of the atoll is littered with bommies. Some are only 2 meters in diameter and others some 20 meters across. It is difficult to estimate their depth so all are avoided. We weaved our way amongst them slowly making our way up to Ile Boddam. Looking ahead towards the anchorage at Ile Boddam, we could count some 25 yachts and this was where the majorities of the yachts anchor and socialized. Once the SE winds become too strong and the anchorage becomes uncomfortable, most of the yachts head down to Ile Takamaka and Ile Fouquet, 2 smaller islands within the Salomon atoll.
One of the smaller islands within Salomon
To orientate readers with the Salomon atoll; we came in through the pass in the North of the atoll. Lying to our starboard was Ile Anglaise and heading in a SW direction was Ile Boddam. From the pass, Ile Fouquet and Ile Takamaka were in a southerly direction.
Slowly we crept into the “Yacht Club” at Boddam. It was a fantastic sight! Here we were in this atoll in the middle of the Indian Ocean and tucked away in the lee of Boddam were some 20 – 25 yachts, anchored in amongst the numerous bommies heads. It was a beautiful sight! Well, some may say there were too many yachts and they may be right, but this amounted to some 50 odd people. Many stuck to themselves enjoying the solitude of the islands. Others enjoy the socializing and a few were hardly ever seen!
It was a great collection of yachts of every design, type and size. The majority of the yachts were mono-hulls, with only 3 or 4 catamarans and one trimaran.
We found ourselves a spot amongst the other yachts and dropped our anchor in about 10 meters of water. Anchored just behind us was the yacht, Iron Lady, and we could see a young child in mothers arms. We were in the right spot! As we backed up I heard the familiar sound of anchor and chain scraping on rock and coral. With us firmly in place I decided to dive the anchor and ensure all was ok. Sure enough, the anchor had somehow landed on sand but all around was rock and coral. The anchor was going no where. On went the bridle and we switched off the engine.
The anchorage off Boddam
Ile Boddam
Ile Boddam was to be our “home” for the next few weeks. The island itself is kind of banana shaped, with us anchored in the lee. Jutting out from the island was a pier and behind that the remains of a settlement. All this needed to be explored!
We did a quick tidy up of Shayile, dropped the rubber duck and headed to the beach.
At 4pm every afternoon, many of the yachties went ashore for sundowners and to play volleyball. We got ourselves together and headed in where we introduced ourselves to the many new faces and greeted the familiar faces; amongst them Heinz and Patricia on Papagena a catamaran, Peter on Belagear, Ian and Elizabeth on Ad Astra and Kim and Sinead on Rival Chief.
Soon Belinda and I were on the volleyball court giving it a full go. We socialized late into the night catching up with everyone before heading back to Shayile and bed.
With our water supply now running low, I needed to fill the tanks again. I went ashore and found the wells. Nearby were 2 metal water tanks that caught water from an old shed roof. These tanks stored rain water and were for drinking only. The well water was for washing. Whilst filling my jerry cans I met Neil and Nancy were from the West Coast of America, Seattle area. We also met Grie and Bert from the Netherlands. Both couples had been at sea for many years and we caught up on a few travel notes whilst our cans filled with water.
Once back on Shayile, I constructed a hose system whereby I could filter the water just collected through my, now redundant, water maker filters. It worked very well and soon all the water was filtered and into the tanks. A dash of Jik (bleach) in each tank and the task completed. (On the filtering issue, we did filter the water again using a Brita water filter just before drinking.)
Deserted beaches are our best!!
The 5th May arrived and the infamous Chagos Mexican party was on the cards for that evening. Apparently it was an annual affair with the owners of the yacht “Mr Curly”, Richard and Cathy, supplying bottles of tequila for everyone.
That evening we all got dressed up in our best Mexican outfits and headed for the party. We anchored Baby Shayile amongst the other tenders and made our way through the coconut trees to the party. We were greeted by a festivity fit for Paris Hilton! There was even a bar set up Mexican style, with tequila laid out for everyone. There was food for kings and Mexican music coming from the hi-fi set rigged up to a generator some place! Balloons were hanging everywhere and what a collection of colourful dresses and Mexican wear! What some people carry around with them on a yacht amazed me! B and I bellied up to the bar, threw the salt over our shoulders, downed the tequila and squirted each other with the lemon. Let the party begin!
Pete, B and Lindi - The Mexican Party!
Party time – Rob & Pete
It was a festive night and it great to be amongst the true yachtie fraternity in Chagos. The majority of these people sailed as a way of life. Many of them had been doing it for 20 years and more. This was the way they lived, socialized and grew old! Such interesting people to be with and we all partied on well into the morning before making our way back to Shayile.
B: Before leaving SA, I was very firm about my children being in bed around 7pm but those days are long gone. Most socializing happens late in the afternoon when the sun loses its heat and usually bedtime is around 8pm but at this anchorage where, every occasion was celebrated, that went by the wayside. The added complication was that children couldn’t lie on a blanket on the sand as huge coconut crabs came creeping out of the bush and rats were regular visitors too. Jenna occasionally succumbed to fatigue and fell asleep in a lap but Dan could keep going until midnight. Luckily school hours are fairly flexible ie. as soon as we are all awake and have had some breakfast. The downside is that now they know exactly what adults do after hours; they drink alcohol; talk sh*t and laugh loudly. At least now they know they aren’t missing anything. Sadly this year had the fewest number of children at Chagos in many years, but at least the swing was always free and the adults still found them delightful.
Repairing outboard engines on Boddum – Jenna & Jim
High on my list of things to do was, 1. Fix the alternators (the electrical problem experienced coming across the atoll) and 2. Go fishing! Fishing I could do but fixing alternators was so far down my list of skills, open heart surgery may have been easier to perform! Yachties to the rescue! Walter on Sea Fever II was an electrical fundi and very familiar with alternators. He came across to Shayile and, with me making mental notes, he got to work. The problem was identified as a major short, a loose alternator and worn pulleys. All contributed towards its non performance. Within an hour Walter had it fixed and then went on to check the other one. With both alternators working like a charm, Walter left Shayile with a bottle of rum, a few greenbacks and some cruising notes I had collected on Africa. I really found it amazing how there was always someone in the know, to assist those who do not know. Really special and I was indebted to those sailors who had so often stepped in and assisted me with a problem I could not fix myself.
Well, I could fish, and this was next on my things to do! The best fishing for game fish was outside the reef, trawling on a rubber duck. My knowledge on fishing was to do it with a rod and reel. At Chagos I was exposed to the hand line technique. A large spool of line with a lure firmly attached at the end. What amazed me was the strength and size of the line used. Some were using 200kg “rope”, with 100 kg breaking strain leaders. When a fish took the lure and was well hooked, it did not stand a chance. It was literally winched in by hand. An amazing technique and highly successful. When in Chagos, it’s about food, and catching fish was of absolute importance. The fish needed to be caught and brought in as quickly as possible. Sport fishing was not an option.
I on the other hand prefer the feel of a big fish on a rod and reel. I like to feel the fish, fight it and bring it in. Nothing against it, but hand line fishing was not for me and I continued to fish with rod and reel!
A Wahoo caught off Boddam
Within the first week I had bagged a couple of Wahoo and 3 Tuna. I had also lost many, including a few lures. There were some large fish out there and losing them was part of the game; yes, even with a hand line, many got away.
One day I went out by myself and soon I was in to a big fish. After a lengthy fight I discovered it was a White Tipped Shark! I did everything possible to try shake the lure but to no avail. Because I could ill afford to loose another lure, the shark had to come along. I did my best to clear the duck of most loose lying equipment and then heaved the shark on board. It was not that big, about 1.5meters, but as it hit the ducky floor, it was not happy. It thrashed about like crazy and I was in trouble. At times I was even perched on the pontoons, hanging onto the engine, whilst the shark twisted and performed. I even took the petrol tank and managed to jam the shark in. With it mildly under control, I set off for the shore. Every so often it thrashed about, with me resorting to pirouettes on the engine cover as I was not keen for my feet to be around a thrashing shark! Once ashore I managed to retrieve the lure, sadly at the cost of one shark.
Each afternoon when fish were caught, they were brought back to shore where they were gutted, cleaned and filleted. The left over carcasses were gathered and a shark meal prepared. All of the scraps were taken to the old pier and thrown into the water where the sharks were ready for it. Years of this daily routing had taught the sharks to hover around this area. It was an unbelievable, yet scary sight! The sharks, mostly Black Tipped and Nurse Sharks, went into a feeding frenzy and devoured the morsels of fish remains. They would often come right out the water seeking food. Norbert from the yacht Pamela, tied a few of the bigger carcasses to a line and fed the sharks on a hand line. It was amazing to see Norbert hanging on as the sharks fed. Daniel and Jenna, stood and watched in awe as I got busy with the video camera.
Dan and a Hermit crab at the parking lot off Boddam
Every evening at about 4pm, many of the yachties made their way ashore for a game of volleyball time, followed by sundowners and even dinner. It was great to get involved with volleyball with everyone getting some much required exercise. As those on the volleyball court battled it out, others sat around and socialized, talking about yacht repairs, cruising stories and more about fixing yachts!
The camp was well laid out on Boddam. Using the remains of an old building as a kind of storeroom, there was the volleyball court outside and numerous cooking facilities. There was a fire area for a traditional braai and next to it were 2 smoker facilities. One was a hot smoker and the other a cold smoker. (Hot smoker – direct heat and smoke, cold smoker – indirect heat and smoke, may be the best way to describe them) There was also a bread oven. Central to these facilities was the sitting area made up of logs and make shift benches. Looking down on this set up were numerous coconut trees and someone had even constructed a coconut opener. This comprised of a metal stake used to prize open coconuts.
At this camp, everything was available to make life as comfortable as possible!
Daniel and Jenna were the “soul” to Boddam. Unfortunately there were no other kids at Boddam to play with, so they pretty much had to entertain themselves. Everyone got to know them and they were great to have around. They had a great beach and people, albeit adults, to play with. Each evening they were entertained by others and often taken on walks into the interior of the island by other adults, no doubt many missing their grand children back home.
Soon Dan and Jens were taking us on long walks visiting the many old ruins on the island. They took me to see the jail with its 4 cells and thick walls. We saw the hospital, still with a few bed pans lying around and the old church which had been cleaned out. It still had a few pains of stained glass in the windows! We also saw an abandoned camp where a sailor had to spend quite some time when his yacht was wrecked on Chagos. There were so many fascinating places to check out and Dan and Jens did a great job as tour guides to me and many other yachties.
The Boulle Championships!
Party time again and this time it was the Chagos annual Boulle Championship. We all gathered at the French Camp, (A beach frequented by the French yachties) armed with food, drink and boulle skills. I cannot tell you how pleasantly surprised I was at each gathering where food was brought along to be shared out. The spread was unreal and how people concocted the kind of dishes I saw, I will never know.
As the afternoon went on, the boulle games continued and soon it was down to the finals. Yes, yours truly, was in the final, up against American Jack. Gathering all my boulle talents learned from my Ufudu Fly-fishing days, I managed to secure the winning trophy, beating Jack in a closely fought final. The trophy – a blow up plastic windmill hat, with the winning flags on it from winners gone by!!
Another great evening was had by all!
Life at Ile Boddam rolled on and the days slipped by without time being a concern. It really was amazing how time means absolutely nothing out in paradise. Be it Friday, Sunday or Tuesday; 8am or 3pm. Who cared or wanted to know. We honestly lost all track of time and this added to the pleasure of being at Chagos. We were truly living a timeless way of life.
The “parking lot” & book swap day on Boddam
Fishing time again and Michael on Iron Lady, and I set off on another food finding mission. Into the IRB and out we headed over the reef and into the open sea. We then released out lures and motored up the reef, waiting for the strike. Soon I was on with my reel spinning as the fish took line. It was not a big fish and I recognised it as a Bonito. As I reeled it in I saw the shark attack! It came in from the right hand side at high speed. I tried to reel faster but it was no good. I felt the tug as the shark struck. Again I reeled in and soon I had a shredded Bonito in the boat. For some reason the shark had not bitten the Bonny but shredded it with its teeth. It looked like it had been through a grater! The lines went back out and an hour later I had 2 big Yellow Finned Tuna to my name. A fantastic fighting fish and very heavy! We headed back to the Yacht Club with our catch. After cleaning and filleting them, we shared the fish out to those yachties anchored around us, and then headed back to Shayile. First on the menu was sushi starter, followed by seared tuna rolled in sesame seeds!
Catch of the season!
As the days passed by, the winds slowly changed to south easterlies. These winds start in about May and blow through until November. With the SE winds, Boddam would become uncomfortable and better shelter would be found at Ile Takamaka.
B: Some of my favourite memories of Boddam will be the times I spent ashore baking bread and coconut biscuits in an old rectangular tin ‘oven’ over an open fire. Irish Sinead showed me the ropes the first time and it was always a nice, quiet, longwinded affair, sitting in deck chairs, stoking the fire and chatting. Jim was usually tinkering with his outboard, Lindy often roasted coffee beans and peanuts in a pan and the children played for hours on the shore about 8m away. Sinead toasted her muesli in a pan following my mom Sally’s recipe, great way to save gas! The camp was rustic but homely and deck chairs provided an element of comfort. The only sad part is how much time I spent preparing food and how quickly it all disappeared. We were long since out of biscuits and sweet treats so I had to make regular batches of biscuits. Diesel had to be saved so the fridge was turned off (just used the top of the freezer) and the bread machine was forbidden. Washing laundry for a family of four is no joke but when you also have to haul the water up 2m in a bucket from the well, it becomes strictly a labour of love! The only good news was that the well was only 12m from the shore and in an open dry area so the mosquitos were only irritating, not hazardous. I realized the best thing was to hang the washing in the evening and it would be dry before lunch, if it didn’t rain or get blown overboard in the night. Sheets and towels are a real pain and everything we own is now faded, stained and tatty looking. No wonder people talk about ‘grotty yachties’ but sometimes it is unavoidable!
Lindi roasting coffee beans
B and Sinead cooking bread
Just before leaving Boddam, the whole family went for another dive off one of the bommies in the atoll. We kitted up and took the ducky across to the chosen bommies, not too far from Shayile. We went over the side swimming through the alleys of coral bommies. The coral was amazing, as it is in the atoll and the fish plentiful. I kept a careful lookout for sharks. As the family gently made our way along, slowly enjoying the scene, I spotted a Black Tipped Shark. It swam around a few times before moving off. On we swam but a few minutes later we were joined by another Black Tip. This one would not leave us alone and kept swimming around, inquisitive as to why we were there. We all stuck close together, swimming slowly but eying the shark out. Unfortunately it started to get “brave” and came in closer and closer. With a twitchy shark in the area, we decided it was time to leave its turf and we head back to the duck. Although I was quite sure it would not hassle us in any way, B and I were not comfortable with Dan and Jenna with us. These 2 just loved to swim off alone and we had to watch them carefully, especially with Uncle Johnny swimming close by! We climbed back onto the duck and headed back to Shayile. Fortunately, I had taken a few good photos of the sharks. Again I must reiterate that these sharks were not out to attack. They were more inquisitive than anything, but we had to be careful. A lady was bitten on the foot by a shark the previous year whilst wading in knee deep water.
As mentioned, the folks anchored at Boddam really enjoyed having Daniel and Jenna around. Being the only 2 kids there, they got the attention, especially from the older folks. They were taken on walks around the island, played with on the beach and spoilt at the socials. Particularly good to them was Nynke on Yacht Walrus. She took them for walks around the island following the many paths and exploring. They had picnics in the coconut trees and looked for shells. They came back to Shayile with all sorts of treasures and were even taught a few new rhymes by Lynke. The 2 of them certainly touched a few hearts and on more than one occasion, stole the show! B and I noticed how Daniel was gaining in confidence as he interacted with adults. He was not scared to put his views across and go into deep explanation about the movies he had watched. Dan had an unbelievable memory and could recite line for line extracts from movies he has seen. By throwing in a bit of acting himself, the adults were kept amused by his antics.
The volley ball court and evening meeting place
Finally it was time to move across to Ile Takamaka. We had spent some 3 weeks anchored off Boddam, socializing, fishing, exploring and trying to relax. I say “trying to relax” because with so many yachts around and socials happening all the time, it was not always easy to take time out to relax! B will back me up here. If we aren’t cleaning Shayile, clothes, dishes, cooking food or drinking coffee, it was playing volleyball and having get togethers!
B: Volleyball was the one area where I was selfish. I loved the games which were physical and often witty and challenging. It was a time where I wasn’t interested in the children or Rob, I felt fit and strong from all my physical labours and being taller, bigger and stronger is an advantage on the sand court and I loved it.
We prepared Shayile and pulled up the anchor. Soon we were on our way to Takamaka, dodging big coral bommies that could rip out the bottom of the boat.
Ile Takamaka & Ile Fouquet
Making our way out of the Boddam anchorage and heading across to Takamaka was not a straight forward motor sail. As mentioned, there were bommies scattered about and we had to keep a careful lookout. Belinda stayed up front looking for bommies as I steered us out and across the atoll.
It was not a long way and within ½ an hour, we were looking for a spot just off Ile Fouquet. (Ile Takamaka and Fouquet are right next to each other, separated by a channel coming into the atoll from the open ocean)
We found a gap between the yachts Sabi Star, Pamela and Ostrica (Little Oyster). The anchor went down and we were set in about 23 meters of water; quite a deep anchorage. It is best to try avoiding deep anchorages if possible. Besides the fact that one has to let out a lot of chain; should the anchor foul up down there, it is not possible to free dive 23 meters and then release the anchor from around bommies of coral! One could lose an anchor and chain if it happened. This time however we did not have an option. There were coral reefs and bommies all around the island and it was unfortunately deep at the anchorage spots.
Proof of disaster showed itself to us. About 80 meters in front of us, just off a bommie was a yacht wreck. In 2005, this yacht was anchored off. The wind changed direction and blew extremely hard and within no time they were dragging anchor and struck a bommie. Being a ferrous cement yacht, it was holed on the port side from the sharp coral and began to sink. Every effort was made to try get her off the reef but unfortunately it failed. She floundered and sank. Most of the possessions and equipment on board was removed before she sank completely. A very sad day for the family on board and a sobering experience to other yachts there that day. The weather can change in an instant so good holding at anchorage, and having sea space, is vital. (Not being anchored too close to rocks)
With our anchor down, we were positioned for the next 6 – 8 weeks.
Takamaka and the anchorage
After a few days of quiet relaxing and enjoying ourselves, the Pacific Marlin arrived in Salomon. This vessel takes care of the Chagos Islands, policing the area and ensuring there are no illegal fishing boats fishing the Chagos archipelago. With the crew of the Marlin at sea for days on end, they enjoy calling in and spending a few days in Salomon. Here they are able to join the yachties, play volleyball and socialise together.
This visit however, was different. An IRB from the Marlin called on each yacht in the anchorage inviting us all for a braai that evening on board the Marlin. There was much excitement! Beer and meat was on the menu, a complete luxury for many in Chagos!
That afternoon everyone started to make their way across the atoll in their tenders to where the Marlin was anchored. I put out a message to a few yachts around informing them that I would take Shayile. It would save having to all go across in our own tenders and, besides, it would be a lot more comfortable and easier! About 12 fellow yachties anchored close to Shayile, joined us on board and we all motored across to the Marlin. I used my chart plotter and put in waypoints all the way across the atoll to the Marlin. It would be dark when we returned and we needed to know exactly where to go in order to miss the bommies.
Basket ball on board the Pacific Marlin
When we got to the Marlin, they threw us a rope and we tied up behind. Everyone was ferried across to the Marlin and the party began. The spread laid on was unbelievable! Fresh salads on the tables and meat to feed an army. Pork, beef, bacon, chicken; it was all there for us to feast on! Behind the Marlin, Shayile swung about on the rope attached to her bow. At times I was quite apprehensive about her as she was swinging through 180 degrees behind the Marlin. The wind had picked up and so had the sea. Nothing serious but Shayile was like a restless dog trying to shake her leash. Back and forth she swung, whilst on board the Marlin, everyone was tucking into meat and beer like it was their last meal! The meat was unbelievable! The chef had done a fine task and as the meat came off the braai, it was devoured by hungry yachties and the Marlin crew. There were 6 kids on board. Daniel and Jenna and 4 French kids, including Manu and Tito. They had a great time being shown around the ship. The crew took them up to the bridge and showed them where the captain sat. They were shown the gym, sleeping quarters and TV room and, down below, where they played darts and basketball. They were given gifts and best of all, sweets and all the ice cream they could eat! They had an absolute ball on board the Marlin!
The adults kept consuming vast quantities of beer, wine and meat, and washed it all down with plates of ice cream! Everyone mixed and mingled, danced to music and chatted to the Marlin crew. An unforgettable evening!
All too soon it was time to head back to our anchorage. With full bellies and big smiles, everyone said their thanks and goodbyes. Daniel and Jenna had made Captain Bob of the Marlin thank you cards. These were handed across to him and then it was back to Shayile. Only now we had more passengers for the trip home. As the weather conditions got worse, those trying to battle home against the wind in their small tenders, opted for Shayile! Soon we had a lot more passengers on board. About 6 tenders were tied up behind Shayile and 27 people on board! Far too many from a safely point of view but, as it was not a long trip, we took the chance and set off. I put Shayile on auto pilot and retracted the passage across the atoll following the way points back to our anchorage off Ile Fouquet.
Back at the anchorage many stayed on board and the party continued well after mid night. It was great to have everyone on board Shayile having a great time!
The life on Shayile!
Between the islands of Fouquet and Takamaka is a channel. The sea water funnels in between these 2 islands over some great coral. With the water only ever flowing into the atoll between these 2 islands and never running “out” through this channel, it is a great place to dive. By taking the tender as far as you can up the channel, one can drift dive the whole way back down “into” the atoll, enjoying great sea life beneath the crystal clear water. With it being totally un-spoilt, untouched and with plenty of marine life to watch, we all did this quite a few times. The kids loved it and it was extremely safe. One day we drifted over some Nurse Sharks as they “slept” totally unaware of our presence, or not concerned at all!
Again, each evening there was volleyball on Fouquet for those wanting a bit of exercise.
On Takamaka, there was no volleyball court but it had a great camp with lots of areas to socialize. It even had a crude pizza oven put together. Every so often a few would gather at the oven and bake bread all day. All the ingredients were taken ashore, bread dough prepared and then baked in the oven whilst everyone caught up on the gossip!
Just a short walk through the coconut trees from the camp, was the well and washing area. Again, yachties would gather with their washing and spend a few hours doing the laundry! More gossip, more “yacht club scandal” and this there was plenty of!!
This was a simple life, really getting back to basic living. Making bread, washing, catching meals and eating ashore, cooking on fires. What a great existence!
B back on board after a morning of washing
B: Yes, a great existence if you aren’t the one doing all the preparing, washing, kneading, baking and collecting of wood for the fire! Just as I have remained totally ‘ignorant’ of how to gut and fillet fish so has Rob remained ‘Domestically Challenged’ and has limited his efforts to hanging or taking down washing, probably only because they made his yacht look tatty. Catching meals was Rob’s job but after the game fish disappeared, no-one knows why, he stopped fishing. He thinks reef/ bottom fishing is for ‘dummies’ too easy and I suspect its because reef fish, with scales and being smaller, are more hassle to clean that huge game fish. Fly fishing is a great sport but often no catch returns home, either because they were too small, too big, too beautiful and even too ugly! Thank goodness for the freezer because much to my surprise Rob is selective hunter gatherer, he says “I’m not that desperate” but I was. Surrounded by fish we often had tinned tuna for lunch!
Fishing at Taka Maka was not quite as easy as Boddam. We had to cross the atoll by IRB and then exit through the pass to reach the open ocean. On 2 occasions Norbert on Pamela and I went out and fished. Unfortunately the results were less than successful. The fish had gone off the bite and nothing was being caught by anyone. The occasional coral trout, (rock cod) were caught bottom fishing, but no game fish at all. Fishing down this neck of the woods was just not the same!
With water on Shayile running low, we soon needed to head back to Boddam to full our tanks with drinking water. At Takamaka the water was not quite as palatable. Although after a good filtering it would be ok, it just did not taste or smell too good! We needed to head back to Boddam and fill the tanks.
Hermit crab with its "Coconut Shell" House
Next morning I started with the water and went ashore with jerry cans, filled them at the tank and then returned to Shayile. It took pretty much most of the day to complete the task but we did it. Full water tanks again and my gym work out completed!
Anchored close by was Iron Lady with Michael, Natalie and young Maya on board. Michael enjoyed fishing and we had gone out a few times previously together. That afternoon we got our fishing tackle together and headed out over the reef on the IRB. I had no sooner put my lure over the side and next thing the reel was humming. I was on to a strong fish! We cut the engine and Michael reeled his lure in whilst I fought the fish. Within 10 minutes I had an 8 – 10 kg Tuna alongside the duck. Michael gaffed it and onto the boat it went. On we went and next it was Michaels turn. He brought in 2 Bonito in quick succession. Then Michael was into a Tuna. As it came along side I leaned over to gaff it. As I sank the gaff, the Tuna took off, yanking the gaff from my grip. Fortunately it came out and I was able to retrieve the gaff. Second time lucky and I got the Tuna onto the duck. Next up I hooked a Bonito and as I brought it in, I felt a little tug on the line and an impact in the water not too far off. A shark had taken the bonny. All that was left was the head! On we fished and soon I was in again only this time I realized it was no ordinary fish. It took the lure and sped off at high speed, the reel spinning incredibly quickly. As it slowed down, I felt the reel. It was cooking hot! Then the fight began and for a good 20 minutes I worked hard at holding the rod and playing the fish. It had gone deep, a sure sign it was a Tuna, and a big one! Slowly it rose to the surface and we got our first glimpse of it. A huge Yellow Finned Tuna! As it came along side, Michael leaned over to gaff it. As with my gaffing, he followed suit. Gaffed it and then the fish took off with the gaff in tow! Again the gaff came out and we were able to retrieve it. The fish swam behind the engine and jammed itself in. Perhaps just as well as circling around not far off was a shark. Both Michael and I worked hard to get it on board. A massive fish and I just sat there staring at this beautiful Tuna. It was fat and over 1 meter in length. Time to go home and we headed on back to Boddam.
With the fish filleted, we handed out pieces to those yachties anchored around us. It had been a good 2 – 3 weeks of no fish and the Tuna was most welcome. Another great days fishing.
Meals for a few days!
Although we now had fish on board, we had also given a lot away. We could do with more as we had none to pickle. (That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it!)
A day later, Michael and I grabbed our tackle and headed out across the reef. Within 15 minutes I had a fish on. This time a Wahoo. Fighting a Wahoo is exhilarating! It takes off with speed, then tapers off and ends with a few great runs. They are perhaps the fastest fish out there and a brilliant game fish to catch. The line actually hums as the Wahoo takes off through the water. Unbelievable! Anyway after a good 10 minutes I had it on board.
Michael also hooked and landed a Wahoo slightly smaller than mine. On we fished and as we were turning for home, both of us hooked into fish. Unfortunately my reel jammed and as the fish pulled, asking for more line, the reel jammed solid and seconds later I felt the line part. Fish and lure gone! Michael got his in, another Tuna. With 2 Wahoo and a Tuna we returned to Boddam. Enough fish to pickle!
Ile Takamaka anchorage
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