Bali & Mt Ijen (Java)

Java - Mount Ijen

I phoned Nono, our guide from Menjangan, and planned our trip to Java. With all arrangements confirmed, we packed our bags, put Shayile back onto a mooring, hired a car and set off for Teluk Gilimanuk. It was a long drive up through central Bali and then along the north western coastline towards Gilimanuk but it was enjoyable and interesting to see another part of Bali. We passed through many rice fields, local villages and tourist centers on route, and after 4 hours of driving, we pulled into the Marine Park at where Nono was waiting for us. After a quick lunch, we changed vehicles and climbed into a mini bus organised by Nono for the trip. With a driver taking control of our safety, we set off for the ferry terminal at Gilimanuk. Just outside the terminal, we were stopped by police and we noticed money changing hands. Then into the terminal where payment for the trip was made. On the ferry, more money exchanged hands once the vehicle was parked. B and I just looked at us in amazement! It was an old rust bucket of a ferry but did the required task and we crossed the Selat Bali straits to the town of Ketapang on Java mainland. Here we got back into the mini bus and headed off through the town and out into the country side.

Local village on Java, on way to Mt Ijen

We soon began the slow climb up into the surrounding hills. The scenery changed from paddy fields to farm lands where cloves trees were grown. Then into the coffee plantations, much to the delight of B and I!! Climbing higher we entered the rain forests and soon emerged on the top of the volcanic mountainous range. Now descending, we passed through cabbage and other vegetable fields. Clearly mass deforestation had taken place years before and it was now replaced by hills of cabbages! We soon reached our home stay for the night where we checked in. It appeared to be an old military base or a company compound of sort, perhaps set up when logging was an industry in the area. It was a tired place but what does one expect in this mountainous region of Java. We upgraded our room to "VIP status" and settled in, but not before our compulsory cup of Indonesia coffee!

Next morning we were up early and on our way up to Mount Ijen.. Arriving at the base camp, we parked and walked across to a small Warung where we tucked into a bit of breakfast, comprising of noodles and eggs. Nono gave us a quick talk about Mt Ijen and what to expect as we walked up to the crater rim. At about 9am, the Bentley family, along with Nono, set off up Mt Ijen. Within 500 meters, we came across the first guy carrying sulphur down from the top. Between a strong flattened bamboo pole was 2 woven grass baskets. With the bamboo pole slung over one shoulder and supported by his upper back muscles, large quantities of sulphur chunks were in the baskets and on their way down Mt Ijen. Nono informed us that they weighed upward of 70kg's with some guys carrying up to 90kg's! As we walked on, B and I came to the conclusion that this was a slight exaggeration. Carrying a 20kg back pack whilst hiking can be strenuous, perhaps the weight was between 40 and 60kg's. More guys passed us and along the path we soon found abandoned baskets of sulphur. Nono informed us that the "mules" carry 2 loads at a time. 2 empty baskets are carried to the top and loaded. Then one is carried for an hour or so, and then put down. Back they go for the second basket and it is then carried to where the first one was left. This procedure takes place all the way down to the bottom. Coming across one load lying alongside the path, we decided to try pick it up. With difficulty I lifted it off the ground and, turning to B, explained that perhaps it was a little more than 50kg's! After about 2 hours, we reached the weigh-in station some 2km from the base station. Here we watched as guys carrying the sulphur on their backs, placed the loads on a scale where it was weighed. To our amazement, the loads varied in weight from 70kg's to 85kg's! We could not believe that loads like this were carried down the volcano by men! At the weigh in station, we bought packs of cigarettes. These were to be handed out to guys on their way down with loads, especially if a photo was required of them. Yes, they carry the loads and smoke like chimneys!

Daniel offering a cigarette to a sulphur carrier 

On we went higher up towards the crater rim. Soon we entered cloud and concerned ourselves with the possibility of not being able to see into the crater on reaching the top. An hour later we reached the top and stood on the crater rim. It was a barren landscape; very rocky with volcanic stones and pebbles. Looking into the crater rim, we saw a huge lake of green coloured water, perhaps with a hint of yellow to its color. Billowing out of the crater was foul smelling smoke, an egg like smell from the sulphur.    

The family on the crater rim of Mt Ijen

At this stage we were still wondering where the sulphur was mined and Nono explained that it was mined down in the crater rim and that we might see it as we traversed the crater rim. It was not easy going as the smoke was overpowering at times. We reached the point where the human mules were emerging from the crater itself. After some discussions with one of the guys carrying sulphur, Nono told me that the guy would take me down into the rater to the mine itself. Not to be outdone, Daniel asked if he could join us, or should I say, told us he would join us! Nono, B and Jenna remained up top whilst Daniel and I, along with our guide, descended into the crater. It was a tricky climb down over boulders and slippery stones under foot. To complicate matters was the foul, choking, smelly smoke that consumed us every 15 minutes or so. It was like walking in the mist, but not nearly as pleasant! We wrapped our shirts around our faces and kept going! On we went, down into the crater, as human pack mules loaded with sulphur slowly made their way out. We then appreciated the difficulty of the climb out. Once at the rater rim it was down hill and I still am not sure which part was the more difficult; going up or down! About 40 minutes later we were at the bottom and emerged at the mines. The sloping crater wall fell into the lake. On the slopes, fissures billowed plumes of smoke and from these fissures, molten sulphur has solidified and was now being chipped and prized away using huge steel rods. The whole area was coated in a thick layer of yellow sulphur dust. Each of the fissure was "tapped" by a pipe, directing the smoke and molten sulphur as required. The sulphur itself is quite soft and breaks up quite easily. Once chunks have been broken off, they are loaded into the woven baskets.



Loading baskets with sulphur

           

                                                                        Daniel in the mine

Once loaded to the required capacity, it is lifted up onto the mule’s backs and away it goes on its 4km journey down to the base camp. It is weighed twice, once on the volcano and the other at base camp. The human mules are then paid 50 cents, (S.African) 500 rupee per kg! Carrying 2 loads at an average of 150kg's per load, these guys get paid R75 a day. (USD10) Doing it every day and perhaps a bit of money can be made but with loads this heavy and the demand on the legs, back and shoulders severe, only 2 or 3 trips can be done each week. That amounts to R900 a month!! Worse still, the sulphur goes to pharmaceutical companies, and we all know the money these guys make, regardless of the product! The toll on the body must be devastating, with the knees taking a pounding on the way down.

Men at work in the crater

We spent half an hour in the crater watching the guys at work and appreciating the appalling conditions they put up with in order to make a living! Daniel was even given a chunk of sulphur as a memento. As mentioned, the whole mine area is covered by a yellow film of sulphur dust and choking in sulphur fumes and soon it was time for us to head on out. The climb out was tiring as we made our way up over boulders and loose gravel, every so often being overcome with fumes billowing out below us. We emerged at the crater rim relieved to be out of the mine pit, but fascinated by what we had seen and experienced. B and Jenna had walked back to the beginning of the descent from the crater rime in order to escape the intoxicating fumes. B was very relieved to see us, and Daniel went on to explain to his mom all he had seen down at the mine. We then all turned and slowly made our way back down to the weigh in station, and from there we slowly ambled on down Mt Ijen as human pack mules passed us on their way down.

Carrying the sulphur out of the crater

At the bottom, now back in the parking lot, we sat around and chatted amongst ourselves, still on a high from having experienced something so special. I turned to Daniel and Jenna and commented on how privileged they were to see such a sight. How many adults, never mind children of their age, would experience such an adventure up and into a live volcano. Further more which children would experience what they have been through in the past 3 years. Sailing the seas, visiting countries and islands not seen by many, trekked in the mountains of Thailand, walked in the jungles of Borneo and seen Orangutans in the wild, snorkeled amongst the best coral gardens in the Andaman Islands and lived in paradise on the deserted islands of Chagos, and so the discussion went on. With lunch coming up, we left Mt Ijen and drove down towards the town of Ketapang. On the way down, we stopped at a coffee plantation and picked coffee beans and hugged a coffee tree! 

Then it was off to lunch at a local Warung where we all tucked into Soto ayam, a chicken soup dish with shredded cabbage and boiled eggs! An hour later we were on the ferry and on our way back to Bali. Again the exchange of money took place no fewer than 4 times before we reached Bali. Nono very kindly took us to a residential house where we bought 3 huge pumpkins at a very reasonable price. I'm sure it was a friend of Nono and we appreciated the assistance as the whole family loves B's pumpkin soup! That afternoon we said our thanks and goodbyes to Nono. He had taken us on an adventure of a lifetime, something so unique and different in this wonderful world of ours! With that we hopped back into our car and headed off down the SW coast of Bali. As it was late in the afternoon, we decided to find a place to stay on the coast, not wanting to drive through the night on these extremely busy roads, roads that were in appalling condition and extremely dangerous with all the heavy trucks streaming in from Java. We came to the small village of Medewi where we discovered a surfing competition was happening. After a few attempts at finding a place, we were directed to a home stay, some 5 km's out of town, and surrounded by paddy fields. Now 8pm at night, we checked in and then set off in search of food. As I waited to join the main road, we witnessed a motor bike accident happen in front of our eyes! With the roads under constant construction and warnings of their "work in progress" very difficult to spot, some poor guy had driven into an area of the road that had been dug up for repairs. With the bike coming to a sudden stop, he flew through the air and landed in the bush on the side of the road! With pedestrians running from all directions, we pulled away leaving the unfortunate guy in the care of bystanders. That evening we ate at a very nice restaurant and then fell into bed, tired after a long day of walking and driving!

View from our room at Medewi

Next day, after a small breakfast, we were able to appreciate just where we were. Stretched out in front of the home stay were fields of rice. Beyond that was the ocean with some spectacular surf breaks and beaches. We all decided on a walk through the paddy fields and down to the beach. It was really interesting to walk amongst the rice fields and appreciate the labour that went into preparing the fields and growing the rice. After 3 hours of walking about and playing with the local kids, we returned to the home stay, paid the bill and set off back to Shayile.

B & Jenna with Balinese kids

Final days in Bali

With Bali having been well explored and circumnavigated by land and sea, it was now time to prepare for the next leg of our trip. Within the next 2 months we would be entering Australia and, with their strict controls on what it brought into the country, we decided to ship as much of our belongings home to South Africa as possible. We had accumulated many souvenirs and other artifacts along the way. We now needed them off Shayile and sent home. I did some enquiring into costs and soon we had a crate ready for shipment back to S.A. We filled it with all sorts, not required for the trip to Australia. Shayile must have breathed a sigh of relief as more than half a ton of "stuff" was shipped off back to South Africa! 

Jenna with local kids at Serangan

Toby and Vicky were also about to leave Bali as well and we decided to set off together sailing up to Lombok. Toby organised a meal on the shore with Wayan, Monday and those that had assisted us whilst in Serangan. A few fish were cooked, along with rice and plenty off beer. I gave the guys a bottle of rum which they consumed that night! It was no restaurant, sitting under a pondok and chatting together but the evening went off well, until we got the bill. Over R500 for 4 adults and 2 kids. Clearly we had been providing all and sundry with food, beer and entertainment! Although I have no problem with providing for the guys, they pulled the proverbial ring and we all left that night with a bad taste in our mouths. Not the way we wanted it to end but, again, a reflection of "fleece them whilst you can" attitude. I made it clear to Monday the next day that that was unacceptable. When I told him what the night had cost us, he was shocked, but with Wayan the boss, he had little else to say. That concluded all dealings with Wayan and his services in Serangan! 

With plans to depart from Bali in progress, we went out and stocked up on food and other essentials. We also hired a car for 2 days and drove out to Kuta, the tourist capital of Bali! Central Kuta was where the bomb went off a few years ago, killing scores of people, mostly Australian tourists. We visited the site of the bomb blast and  found it extremely difficult to comprehend why anyone would do such a thing in such a "neutral" area full with tourists. Its a whole understanding on its own!  In Kuta we did some last minute shopping, mostly clothes for ourselves and a McDonalds ice cream! 

Lembongan 

Back in Serangan, I did one last diesel run, filling up the Shayile's tanks and jerry cans. With no "outside assistance", this time I got the diesel at the pump advertised price, not with 500 rupee added on for "government tax" which went to the pump attendant and Monday!! With Shayile ready for departure I had one last issue to tackle. The dreaded engines!! Ever since Lovina, the starboard engine was showing signs of not being too happy. It had overheated off Lovina and there were now bubbles in the heat exchanger. Although I suspected a blown head gasket, she was still running surprisingly well and I hoped that it was perhaps something else. I dropped a note to Gary on Yacht Aquarius, asking him for his advice and possible solutions. At the time, Gary was in Australia and, on getting further advice from a marine engineer mate of his, he wrote back to me. The news was not good and he stated that it was a blown head gasket and that it needed attention before leaving Bali. He went on to say that, although running surprisingly well at the moment, it was sure to go bad, and Bali may be the last viable option to get the task done. Taking his advice, I decided to put a new head gasket on. We left the anchorage at Serangan and motored down to the harbour of Benoa where the Bali Marina was situated. I organised a mechanic to come visit Shayile and confirm the diagnosis. We motored into Bali Marina and, frankly, were appalled at what we saw. It was no marina, but a broken, badly maintained concrete walk on that supported about 30 vessels. Then the cost of 22USD a day, no water, no electricity! It was filthy dirty and, going on our previous experiences of marinas, this was not for us! The mechanic confirmed the problem, and I told him to meet us back at Serangan where we would fix the engine. He agreed and with that, having spent one night at the marina, we motored back to Serangan. Within 2 days, the engine was fixed and we were ready to leave Bali. 

Jenna with a ritual dancer

Departure from Bali

As the current down the Lombok straits are fierce, we decided to head up the coast to Labuan Amuk where we would spend the night. Then we would crawl our way north and across to Lombok.  On the 7th May 2008, we finally upped anchor and motored out of Serangan and up towards Amuk. Then the winds kicked in and the currents played havoc as we crawled our way north. At about 2pm, with the wind howling, creating a lee shore in Amuk and currents against us, we decided to turn and head for Lembongan, our old surf spot. To fight our way up the coast, and into an anchorage over rock and a lee shore, was not a sensible thing to do. We arrived in the anchorage at Lembongan, picked up a mooring buoy and settled in for a few days. 

Arriving in Lembongan

We spent the next 3 days relaxing and surfing all we could whilst a huge ground swell made the Lombok straits look rather ugly! I have never seen currents and tides react in such a way, with standing waves 3 miles out in the straits and not the place you want to spend time in! After an enjoyable 3 days, we decided it was time to move on out and make our way up to Lombok. The day before we left, we woke up to the sight of a pinisi fishing boat high on the reef at Shipwrecks surf break! It seemed he was doing his best to avoid the currents and something went wrong, putting him on the reef. Throughout the day we watched him as he made an effort to get off with the high tide, smoke billowing, as he thrust his engine in reverse and tried to dislodge the vessel. Another fishing vessel joined in and they did their best to pull the boat off the reef, however it was stuck fast and did not budge. Next morning, with the pinisi still high on the reef, we decided to head on out of Lembongan. With the sun rising, we motored out of the bay towards the straits. In the distance we could see the current as it flowed past the point. It looked like a river in full flow and I made my way towards it, hugging the coast and passing close to the stranded pinisi. Then as we crept out into the current, Shayile's bows were violently pushed out and we were in the current. The speed bled off very quickly as B sat at the computer monitoring our speed and direction, and I steered Shayile. Within a minute I called down to B saying that we were going backwards and B confirmed it!! Sure enough, we were driving forward at 8 knots but going backwards at 2 knots. It was rather scary as Shayile was dictated to by the current. I swung her around, now going with the current and we took off! Then slowly we angled Shayile back in towards Lembongan. By this time we had virtually passed the bay but slowly we made ground back in towards our anchorage. Out the current, B and I looked at each other and agreed; lets try another day. The current was just too strong! We hooked up to our old mooring buoy and thought about our next "escape" plan. Nothing beats local knowledge and I decided to dingy across to a local charter catamaran anchored close by. On board I met Roberto, the owner and skipper. We caught up on sailing stories and the like and then discussed the currents. Now, in my time at Bali and other current effected areas in the region, I must have asked no fewer than 10 people on how best to tackle the currents, and I must have received 6 different answers! In this area, the tides and currents do not coincide. Moon phases dictate the direction and state of the currents. Another very interesting discovery from Roberto, was that the Pacific Ocean to the north, is 15 cm higher than the Indian Ocean to the south, as earlier mentioned. However with moon phases and tide intervention, the currents can moderate or intensify. It's catching the right time that is crucial. Further to this there is a small counter current running up the Bali coast, making a northerly path a little easier. We gathered what info we could and decided to leave much later, hopefully making the journey a bit easier.

B’s Best Beer Brew!!

Next day we were up and away at about 10pm, not 6pm like the previous day. This time the poor pinisi was being pulled off the reef by a tug! Although we experienced the strong currents for the first hour or so, our speed and direction improved and soon the current was down to 1.5 knots against us. With time now against us, we could not make to Lombok, and headed towards Bali and Labuan Amuk where we would spend the night. True to form, the wind intensified and sailing into the huge bay, we again realised we had problems. We were on a frightening lee shore! Just next to Amuk is a ferry terminal situated in a very small bay. I decided there must be protection in there and we headed across to Teluk Padang. As we entered, it seemed ok, but was very small! With no obvious anchorage, I approached the beach whilst B tried to shout across to the ferry dock workers where best to anchor. Just then the depth gauge went from 14 meters to 9 meters to 5 meters to 1.1 meter, all in about 8 seconds! I swung Shayile about expecting us to run aground, but she made it! Must have been all the "stuff" we shipped home that enabled her to avoid running aground! The dock workers shouted back that this was no good and that we needed to go back to Labuan Amuk! Out we motored and back to Amuk, this time seeking a new anchorage in the western part of the bay. Fortunately we found a vacant buoy and grabbed it. With the wind pumping in, I set an anchor alarm and we settled in for a rather rough night! 



Finally we leave Bali

We just could not shake Bali! But with a good start up the coast, we motored out of Amuk and hugged the coast as we headed north. As we put the sails up and motor sailed, we soon come into contact with a flotilla of small sailing boats. They are actually fishing boats, all with wonderfully coloured sails and we all heading in the same direction. There must have been 200 - 300 of these small sailing vessels with, usually, one occupant! It was a spectacular sight as we made our way through the flotilla. At the NE tip of Bali, we turned and headed across towards Lombok. The wind increased, the motor was turned off and Shayile was up on her toes across the straits towards Lombok. It was a great days sailing and we loved it! Back at sea, sailing away, with Australia firmly set in our minds!

Kalimantan (Borneo) to Bali

Pulau Keramian

At about 8.30am the next morning, we rounded the north east tip of Pulau Keramian and made our way south towards a group of fishing boats we saw in the distance. There was a lot of reef about and we found it difficult to find a sheltered spot. We finally dropped the anchor but, I must admit, I was not too happy with our position. Ah yes, visiting hours! Within 10 minutes we had our first visitors on board. However they came with advice. One of the guys was a skipper of a fishing boat and he told us we must move. He pointed south and I took him up on his advice. As I upped the anchor, he steered Shayile proudly, weaving his way between other fishing boats and calling out to them. I could picture the "chirping" going on between them as he steered Shayile! With me next to him, he steered us in between 2 reefs and closed in on the island. As we got closer, the sea settled and soon we were in a protected "hole", surrounded on 3 sides by reef. It was perfect and we dropped the anchor, putting out lots of chain. After a bit of social interaction with the fishermen, they departed, but not for long. Soon there were no fewer than 7 boats anchored all around Shayile, curious to see who were and what we were up to.

   

Pulau Keramian beach

            Daniel and Jenna out catching squid as the sun sets behind the island

For 5 days we never moved Shayile. The anchorage was superb and the scenery even better. The water was mostly clean, but I'm hesitant to say good for snorkeling. Every day we had visitors. They arrived at about 6am and came and went all day. Some were great company. They arrived, chatted, looked around and left after 1/2 hour. Others made themselves at home, arriving at the wrong time, and staying for hours! Very tiring indeed and not easy to get them off Shayile!! We met a young guy one afternoon who spoke a bit of broken English. B had no eggs left and asked him if he could get some for us. He said yes but needed money. With no change I gave him 50 000 Rupiah (R50) hoping that we would see him, the eggs and our change again! Sure enough, next day early he arrived with the eggs, and a small bit of change! His name was Diyeng and he kindly invited us back to his house. Daniel and I decided to go ashore with him whilst B and Jenna remained on Shayile and made a fantastic batch of peanut butter biscuits! (We were still not comfortable to leave her unoccupied) We jumped into the dingy and headed ashore, landing at an old jetty where we tied. We then followed him as he guided us through to a small homestead which was surrounded by coconut trees. There we met his grandparents and a few other family members. No English at all but greetings and formalities were exchanged. From here we walked on through the coconut plantations and small homes perched on stilts and scattered about in the coconut trees. We came upon a small gathering where a lady was serving coffee to a few guys. We joined them and had ourselves a strong, gritty brew of coffee. Each person there wanted us to come back to their house!  They eagerly invited  us back, even bribing us with TV! Fortunately our "guide" took control of all communication and explained the situation. After a heart pulsing brew of coffee, we went on and soon arrived at Diyeng's house. His mother was baking what looked like doughnuts, all laid out on coconut leaves. These little "donuts were stuffed with a sweet coconut mixture and others had a chocolate filling to them. We put in a request for a few! Daniel soon expressed an interest in coconuts and Diyeng grabbed a machete and we headed on into the coconut trees to cut a few down. Young Diyeng climbed a tree with ease and then got busy, hacking away, dropping about 8 coconuts. We gathered them up and returned to his house. There his older brother invited us to his house, so we set off again! We emerged at a small village where there were about 7 houses with a mosque at its center. Kids came from everywhere and soon we were surrounded by children and parents, all eager to touch Daniel, calling him Hercules because of his big muscles. Then they would try work out where we came from and why we were there! Diyeng's brother went off and I soon heard him starting a generator. He rushed back and invited us into his modest house to watch TV! On it came and there was Oprah doing her thing! Here we were in the middle of the Java Sea, on a very remote island, watching The Oprah Show!! Too entertaining! As I was in no mood to sit glued to the TV, we excused ourselves after 20 minutes and thanked everyone for their hospitality. We picked up our coconuts but unfortunately the doughnuts were not ready. Diyeng kindly offered to bring us some the next day. We returned to Shayile loaded with coconuts and enjoyed an afternoon cup of coffee with delicious peanut butter cookies!  

 

A brew of coffee with a few islanders                                    

 

       Daniel surrounded by local kids in the village

As we were surrounded by fishing boats, we decided it was time to be the "visitor" and nor the "visited." We motored across to them and spent some time on one of their fishing boats. We discovered that this was the "mother ship". The smaller boats were the ones that went out and caught the fish and lobsters. Each day they would pull up along side the mother ship and sell their catches. When this vessel was full of fish, it motored off for the island of Java, where the fish were again sold. Although very basic boats, they did have ice on board and huge plastic containers for the storage of the fish. The ice was crushed up and the fish were put into the holds, layered between the ice. We had a very interesting time on board watching them sort and pack their fish away. Most of the fish were shoal barracuda. On leaving we were kindly given a few lobsters (Crayfish) and a fish. I was pleasantly surprised to notice how happy these guys were. Everyone was happy, smiling and enjoying their tasks. Whether it was just them moment, or perhaps they were always happy, I have no idea, but great to see! (Just an observation of mine!) That evening we feasted on another meal of crayfish. We were very fortunate, as quite a few fishermen had pulled up along side Shayile for a social visit and kindly gave us crayfish, calamari and fish, in exchange for a few items of clothing. These were the pleasant visitors, the guys who were genuinely interested in having a look at Shayile, a chat with us and perhaps a beer. They would also arrive with something to trade and we enjoyed their company. However we then got the guys arriving just for a look / see and would continually pester us for something. It was unreal! Some would arrive and, seeing my shoes on Shayile, immediately try them on and ask for them. Then my mask would be tried on and that requested. Everything they took a fancy to was tried out and gestures made that they wanted them! Most times these were older men, lone fishermen trying their luck but unfortunately not pleasant folk. One memorable old codger arrived in a rainstorm in a small canoe with two very scruffy looking old chickens which he wanted to sell to us. The kids enjoyed feeding the chickens popcorn as they sheltered in our dingy. We didn't enjoy the grumpy old guy sitting in our lounge for far too long or us having to wash away the chicken poop when he left!

Whilst there I did try my luck at a bit of fly fishing but no luck. Each day we did the school thing, read and relaxed. Unfortunately even school our relax time and meals were disturbed by visitors. Perhaps we are harping on a bit, but it reached the stage where we were anxious when I boat came by. I cannot blame the guys at all and hence we never ever chased them away. They were curious and I'm sure had perhaps never seen a sailing boat off their island. We were a complete novelty, and those that did come on board, no doubt had a good story to tell back in the village. So we did not deny any of them access, we understood their culture and curiosity, but it certainly got to us. The final straw was when a guy came aboard who could speak a bit of English. He brought a friend along and kept telling me how important this other "friend" was (who spoke no English!) They arrived on a fishing boat and the 2 of them were dropped off!! He then wanted to borrow our ducky, and just took too many liberties. B was mad and retreated to our cabin, as I asked him if he was going to swim back to shore! Of course not and so I had to load them into the ducky and take them ashore. Then we had to visit his house and when I finally said it was home time, they looked offended. The best was when he insisted on returning to Shayile for some hot water! These were not the guys that represented the generosity and friendship of the islanders. With that we decided it was time to move on. Visiting hours on Shayile was over! Pulau Keramian was a fantastic place and we had thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

       

            On board one of the large fishing boats

B having a chat with a fisherman 

     

Pulau Kangean

The next leg was another overnight trip. With no wind at all, we motored virtually the whole way. Being in the busy Java sea, we had to avoid a few ships and other fishing vessels, but it was otherwise an uneventful trip. We arrived at Pulau Kangean early in the morning whilst Belinda was on watch. A stunning sunrise welcomed us to the island and we made our way into a bay on the NW corner. Up ahead I could make out what appeared to be a small village. The plan was to stop off, grab a few provisions from a market and then find ourselves a secluded spot on the southern coast. We dropped anchor in 8 meters of water, about a mile from a jetty. We then went ashore in search of a market. We were met on the jetty by a few local guys and told that the market was some 10 km's away. It was decided that I should go to the local town and buy what was needed. Daniel wanted to come along as well, so we jumped onto a motor bike taxi (3 of us up!) and scooted off. B and Jenna returned to Shayile. Our "taxi driver" spoke a bit of English enabling us to communicate just what we were after. At the small town, we were hustled along towards the market. Being very similar to the market in Kumai, we went about buying fruit and veggies. With not much to see and nothing worth while buying, we made our way back to Shayile. On route, I noticed a group of women attending to rice on the side of the road. I asked the driver to stop and we all climbed off. It was a very picturesque sight. Just off the road were paddy fields. Alongside the road, the ladies were laying out rice to dry. A few were also separating the rice from the stalks. We must have spent 1/2 hour there watching these ladies at work. We also caused bit of a traffic jam. As we left the town, a number of motor bikes followed us. When we stopped, they too stopped. Now others were pulling over, curious to see us and keen to ask a few questions. Always interesting. With the sight seeing over, we returned to Shayile with fruit and veggies for the next few days.

That evening, a squall came through and for the first time in absolute ages, Shayile began to drag her anchor! I sleep very lightly and can feel" every movement of Shayile, every tide change and wind shifts. As the wind picked up, I switched on the anchor alarm and prepared for a blow. The wind and the rain hit us hard and Shayile slowly started to move off. B and I raced up front and let out more anchor chain. That halted the dragging immediately and for the next hour or so, we collected rain water for clothes washing. (Our water maker was working, and had been for some 5 weeks now!!!)  As the squall passed, we dried off and went back to bed.

     

Crayfish for dinner 

        

                                    Both Dan and Jenna tucked into coconut flesh on a daily basis!

The next day we upped the anchor and set off, heading in a southerly direction. I located a small bay on the southern coast which looked to offer shelter, and was in a great position to begin our leg across to Bali. We entered the bay that afternoon and dropped anchor. Again, a very picturesque little cove with rice fields and other crops off in the distance. A few fishing boats were hard at it close by. Visiting hours!! No sooner had we dropped anchor and organised Shayile, when 2 boats pulled up and tied on to Shayile. On climbed the invited guests and conversation commenced! After an hour or so, they left us and went off fishing. We spent 2 nights at this anchorage, swimming, fishing, and entertaining locals. On our last afternoon there, the same group of fishermen climbed aboard Shayile twice in the space of 3 hours. The last time they really settled in and at about 7pm, I had to kindly ask them to leave as we were tired. Getting the message, they climbed aboard their boats, moved about 20 meters away and dropped anchor! Another boat joined them, a did a few dug out paddle boats! B was fuming and just wanted space. I to was tired of the constant entertaining, or just keeping them occupied. Even when we went inside and totally ignored them, they just sat around smoking up a storm, unconcerned that we were not part of a discussion! We decided to move on.

Next morning at 1am, we lifted the anchor and motored out from amongst the gathering of small fishing boats. It was a 75 mile run down to Bali and we wanted to arrive in Bali in day light hours, hence the early start. It was not to sneak away from our visitors!!



Bali

With the wind now something of the past, the trip to Bali was under motor virtually the whole way. I say virtually, a we did motor sail when a small breeze teased us. As the sun started to come up at 5am, I picked out the silhouette of Bali way off in the distance. Seeing the mountain outline through the clouds was impressive and certainly an inspiration. We closed on the northern coast of Bali at about 5pm that afternoon and made our way between the fringe reefs off the town of Lovina. We were welcomed to Bali with dolphins and a stunning sunset. We found a spot in 10 meters of water, just off a beach littered with outrigger type canoes, and dropped the anchor. Welcome to Bali!!

Bali sunset off Lovina  

17th March - 7th May 2008 : Bali

Having spent the past 5 weeks or so, cruising the islands and other remote locations in Indonesia, we were all very excited to be in Bali. It conjures up images of beaches, surf, tourists, and the ultimate tropical destination! We now wanted to experience this paradise and enjoy the Balinese way of life for 6 weeks or so, before heading on east.

N. Coast of Bali - Lovina

We spent the first 3 days at Lovina, on the north coat of Bali, really just settling in, knowing we now had a base for the next 6 weeks. Our first day ashore opened our eyes and, sadly, not for the better. Arriving on the beach we were accosted by desperate but lethargic touts trying to sell us souvenir trinkets, clothing, shells and offering us tours and transport around Bali. They were not easy to shake off and when Daniel and Jenna showed interest in a few necklaces, they would not leave us alone. It was the first of many lessons on how to treat these touts as they harass you for a sale! Once rid of these irritating guys, we walked the beach front. It was not a pretty beach, nor is most of the northern coast of Bali, but tourists do visit Lovina and the surrounding area to go on dolphin sight-seeing trips. As we walked on, we encountered the litter and the stray dogs of Bali, something that would haunt us for the entire duration of our stay in Bali. The litter and garbage!! It was everywhere and no one seemed to pay any attention to the plastic bags and bottles lying on the beaches and walkways. At a small beach front homestead, we saw a lady take a large plastic bag half full with left over food and throw it to the ducks on the beach. That was it! The sea would carry the bag away, once the ducks had nibbled away at what was available to them! We were all quite shocked and debated what kind of people would live with this kind of filth surrounding them? Why not a quick tidy up from time to time? We returned to Shayile saddened by what we saw as our introduction to Bali, but eager to experience more of the island.

Lovina fruit & veg market

Lovina is known for its hot springs and, when in Rome...., we decided to go check them out. We caught a bemo, a type of taxi, out to the hot springs, situated in the hills just above Lovina. On the way out it bucketed down with rain and once dropped off in the parking area, we all dashed for cover. Lining the small lane to the springs are numerous souvenir stalls, with eager shop keepers doing everything to drag customers into their shop. Sadly they all sell exactly the same thing but none the less. With B having a look around to pick up some new sarongs to dry off with, Daniel and I wandered on up the road in the rain. At one shop we managed to shelter for a while, waiting for B to catch up. Across the road from us, on the payment outside was a baby monkey, chained to a pillar. It was so, so sad. Not an expert on monkeys, but this baby was no older than 2 months. It was tiny, and very wet! In a cowering, sad, frightened appearance, it sat hiding its head low on its chest, with its arms covering its face. Daniel asked me why it was there and I had no answer but to reply humans can be very cruel at times. He got more concerned for the poor monkey and eventually I tried to ask the shop keeper why it was there, knowing full well it was for entertainment and a money making little skit. With the "No speak English", we left. Daniel began to cry, asking why we could not take it and let it go. How do you answer the question knowing full well the baby monkey was either stolen from its mother or its mother killed for it. Not 3 shops further down the alley, we came across another one, in exactly the same position. Daniel was distraught by what he saw, asking me now could people treat animals so badly, why it was chained and cold and wet. I had to agree with him and do my best to explain that not all people are good when it comes to the treatment of animals and that these animals should be living in their natural habitat, not being used by some selfish individual to make money, and later to be discarded like an old bicycle. We need to live and let live Daniel, and I could see the confusion in his eyes as to why people would do such a thing.

Lovina Hot Springs 

We entered the springs and it was like going back in time. The 40's, and it had not been upgraded or any form of maintenance carried out. The setting was very picturesque and, although raining, the swimming pool like baths into which the hot spring water ran, looked inviting. We stored our belongings in a locker and as we headed on down to the springs, Daniel called me across to see something. There in a cage about 1 meter x 1 meter was a porcupine. The floor was all concrete and scattering of old fruit lay about on the floor. It lay huddled in a corner with its nose up against the cage. I looked on in disgust! Why? Daniel was now angry with the people, saying how would they like to be locked up in a cage like that and I could only agree. Was this a representation of the Balinese culture towards the treatment of animals? We had seen the total filth of garbage and plastic in the sea and on the beaches. Stray tatty, flea infested dogs roamed the streets and now this. Bali was slowly dropping in our ratings! We headed off and jumped into the water. For the next hour or so we did our best to enjoy the warm spring water. Unfortunately it smelt quite a bit, only natural, and was kind of slimy. We sat under the fountains and played about until our skin was shriveled up! After grabbing our towels and clothes, we got changed in the most disgusting change rooms I have ever been in, in my life! A quick lunch at the restaurant, and we left. Although very interesting, we felt a lot more could have been done to what was perhaps Lovina's primary tourist attraction. 

 

West Bali National Park

We spent a few more days anchored off Lovina and then decided to head west towards the NW tip of Bali where there was a National Park and a marine reserve, and the snorkeling reputed to be great. We upped anchor was motored west, a trip of 25 miles or so. It was a pleasant trip and we sat about, doing school work, reading, listening to music and admiring the huge volcano's high up on Bali, a very different sky line to what we had been used to. A few hours and B called out to me asking what was up ahead in the water. As we approached we ran into a flotsam of garbage! It must have been over a km long, obviously formed in a current line. It was so bad that we even began filming the filth as we motored on by. B commented that this was dumped garbage, not the occasional plastic bag in the water scenario. What was this place called Bali and how do people live like this? I always try giving the benefit of the doubt and identifying the "perhaps that is why", but this was a shocker! Unfortunately our insight into this total disregard for nature and selfish behavior, had only just begun!!

We approached the island of Menjangan which was inside the marine reserve and began looking for a place to anchor. It was difficult as, being a volcanic island, the sea bed drops off very quickly to depths not convenient for anchoring in. Seeing a small hut on the island, I jumped into the rubber duck and went ashore, whilst B kept Shayile just off in deeper water. A ranger explained to me that the only anchorage was across the bay, on Bali mainland and that we should head on across there. I thanked him and returned to Shayile.  On reaching the so called anchorage, again we battled to find a spot to anchor. There was a lot of rock and coral about and it was very deep. On the shore was a camp where dive boats lined the beach and bungalow type huts scattered in the bush behind, all for those visiting the marine reserve. We finally dropped anchor, but felt the grinding as the anchor dragged across rock and coral. 

Family evening on Shayile

Next day I went ashore to enquire about snorkeling the island in the marine reserve. Out came the calculator and I was hit with a R460 fee for 4 hours diving! Although reputed to be the best diving in Bali, I was not prepared to pay that amount. It was ludicrous! I went back and gave it another go, saying we had our own boat and own snorkel gear. They finally brought it down to R200, but were informed that we needed to take a guide with us. Having come so far to snorkel, I agreed and we set off back to Shayile with our guide Nono. Little did we know at the time, but Nono would be instrumental in taking us on a very exciting excursion up a volcano on Java.

We motored out to Menjangan Island and found a mooring buoy unoccupied. Out of interest, Menjangan is home to what is believed to be Bali's oldest temple, Pura Gili Kencana. We quickly tied up and I dived down to examine the strength and condition of the mooring lines. With all ok, the whole family got their gear together and we set off on the duck, Nono showing us the way.  We did what can only be described as an incredible drop off dive. From 1 - 2 meters, the ground dropped off over a wall of coral and disappeared into the depths below. The wall was stunning and we slowly edged our way along, swimming with the current and enjoying all the stunning coral and sea life. It certainly was one of the best snorkels we had had so far but, true to form, it was spoilt by submerged plastic bags, polystyrene, bottles and other garbage. Back on Shayile we brought up the subject with Nono and we could see the regret on his face. Nono had completed his degree and was keen to become a lawyer. He was also actively involved in the marine reserves activities and, what appeared to be, above and beyond the call of duty. He had formed a small organisation called "Friends of Nature" and did his part in trying to keep the reefs clean and the coral grounds free of garbage. He explained to us his frustrations and difficulties in even trying to influence his fellow rangers in the need to protect and look after the marine reserve. We sympathized with him and told him how, in 3 years of sailing, we had never experienced this type of wholesale litter in the ocean. I hope that more people like Nono will take up the cause and do what needs to be done in cleaning up the sea around Bali. On returning to the camp, Nono pointed out a volcano on the eastern tip of Java called Mount Ijen. He told us it was an active volcano and certainly worth seeing. As a tour guide, he did take parties up Mt Ijen and said that he would take us if we were keen. The few photos he showed us looked fantastic! We told him it sounded like a wonderful adventure and that we would consider it and phone him. In those 5 hours or so together, we got to know Nono quite well and he seemed like an intelligent, level headed guy. At the camp, he said good bye to us and hopped off. We then set off back to Lovina on Shayile.

The trip back had its moment when the port engine overheated. I immediately switched off and got busy. It seemed like there was a lot of sludge in the fresh water cooling system and I did my best to get rid of it. After adding more water and cleaning it every 30 minutes or so, it ran well again. We sighed with relief after worrying that perhaps we had done damage to our engine! Back in Lovina, we dropped anchor and settled in for the night.

Lovina beach with local tourist boats

Not keen to hang around Lovina much longer, we went off to the local market and bought a few fruits and veggies for the trip down to Benoa, the port of Bali. This was our second visit to the market and not the best place to go buying provisions. Again, a health hazard with garbage and litter strewn everywhere! Gritting our teeth, we bought the necessary and headed back to Shayile.



Trip to Serangan

Next morning early, we upped anchor and set out through the break in the reef and out into the open sea. We headed east following the coast line around the northern tip of Bali and then down the NE coast. This stretch of coastline is ruggered and, looking at the shoreline, we could  see it had been recently battered by  storm surf. (We later found out that this occurred when we had all the bad weather in Palau Belitung.) There were a lot of sand bags holding up sand banks and construction was being carried out where roads had been washed away. At about 4pm, we found a spot to anchor. Unfortunately it was totally exposed to the elements and not an anchorage at all, but we decided to go for it. If it turned nasty during the night, we could easily move on. With anchor down, we relaxed and planned the trip down to Benoa. We still wanted to see the "real" Bali!

Friday night family party on Shayile

We were up early the next morning and after another fine cup of coffee, we commenced our trip down to Bali. It was at this stage that my computer literally packed in! Fortunately I had Daniels and set that one up as my navigation facility. I would now need to get mine repaired in Denpasar on Bali. We motored off down the coast towards the eastern tip of Bali. It was here that we picked up the first bit of current to be experienced in these waters. The straits between Bali and Lombok islands are infamous for their strong currents. Looking at a chart, you will notice the Indonesian islands stretching from east Java, right across to the Tanimbar Islands. Almost a "dam" of islands. As the Pacific Ocean is 15cm higher than the Indian Ocean, the water flow is from north to south (Pacific to Indian Ocean) These Indonesian islands, with their channels between each of the islands, now act like sleuth gates forcing the water down between the islands causing extreme currents. At times these currents can reach 8 - 10 knots!  Fortunately we were now going with the flow as we rounded the eastern tip of Bali and headed south. At about 3pm, we reached the bay of Labuan Amuk, the planned anchorage for the night. Amuk is a large bay and we motored up into the NE corner and dropped the anchor. As we pulled on the anchor, we heard the familiar grating noise of anchoring on rock! It finally took and although not ideal, we were holding and Shayile was in a safe area. B fired up a cup of coffee and we sat and looked out towards the beach where outrigger sailing boats and hotels lined the beach front. It was a pretty setting and looming some 3142 meters above us  tucked away in the clouds, was the sacred volcano mountain of Gunung Agung, "the navel of the world" and Bali's "mother mountain".

Shayile with Mt Gunung Agung

Next day we were woken up with Daniels exciting voice. There were squid under Shayile and the right size! We all jumped up, prepared squid lures and got busy! Within half an hour, we had 5 on board and lunch was in the making. With the arrival of the squid, we now had no immediate plans of heading on just yet. Squid (calamari) is a favorite dish for all of us and we were keen to enjoy every meal! We stayed at Amuk for 3 days. We swam, squid fished and carried on with the routine of schooling each morning. We also did a bit of boogie board ski-ing and visited the beach. It was a pleasant 3 days and, once we decided to head on, our calamari health levels had improved some what!

Serangan anchorage

Next stop was Benoa, the main port of Bali and home of the marina. As we motored on down the coast, I telephoned the marina to get rates. They informed me that the daily rate was 15US dollars! This excluded water and electricity. I had also read in a pilot report that it was not a particularly attractive marina and with that price, we decided to rather head into the anchorage of Serangan. The village of Serangan is close to Benoa and lies on a river where there is a small anchorage. We headed for the entrance and made our way in between the fringe reefs and surf breaks. Quite a sight and not much room for error on entering the river, infact intimidating for first time arrivals! We motored in and dropped our anchor close to another catamaran at anchor. Soon a local guy came out to us and told us we could pick up one of his mooring buoys for 90 000 Rupee. (R90) I kindly informed him that this was more than we paid at Rebak Marina in Langkawi! The price then dropped to 65 000 rupee (and would later drop to 50 000) but I was not interested. Already the money grabbing had commenced! Serangan was a small island or peninsula but the ex presidents son decided to turn it into a marina. This was a great idea as Bali sorely lacks a good marina. Within months a man made island was created by dredging the river and constructing the beginnings of the marina. Unfortunately not all was going his way and soon he ended up in jail, where he still is, on fraud and embezzlement charges. (How surprising!) Today the marina lies incomplete but certainly awaiting development. Now safely anchored in Serangan, our plan was to explore Bali mainland and visit the volcano on Java with Nono. We also planned to get in some surfing, reprovision, and then head off. All this should take about 5 weeks. With a plan in place we set about preparing for our first trip, a weeks tour of Bali by vehicle.

Landing jetty at Serangan

Going ashore at Serangan, I met Wayan, a local guy who rents out moorings and assists yachties with provisioning, fuel, etc. Glayva, (Mark and Rachael) had given me Wayan's details and told me he could assist us. Fortunately we also met Wayans side kick, Made (Monday), who turned out to assist me over the next few weeks, albeit at a price. An example of this was the diesel run. Requiring diesel, Monday offered me his assistance. We grabbed the jerry cans and, taking the rubber duck, headed to the garage. At the pump, discussions commenced with Monday and the attendants. I took note of the price of diesel being 4600 rupee and the process began. When I came to pay for the first load, the price was now 5000 rupee. I was informed that this is a government tax for boats. No receipt, no documentation, but this was the price! (I was not overly concerned as in Langkawi, there was a government tax on diesel) I did a number of trips, each time paying the "government tax"! 6 weeks later I returned without Monday and this time needing a lot of diesel, there was no more government tax! What a surprise!! In the anchorage was another yacht which was on its way through to Singapore. Monday kindly organised to fill their tanks with diesel. On completing the task, he came across to Shayile. "Rob, if he (the skipper) asks you how much for diesel, tell him 5500 rupee!" Talk about trying to put me on the spot. Well, if anyone is too lazy to go check out the pump price for diesel, they are going to get ripped off! Unfortunately this was an ongoing issue with Wayan, Monday and his team, and led to us eventually not doing any business with them. Not that it got any better with someone else, as it was all the same. Play hard, negotiate, argue, negotiate, reject them, play their game, ignore their emotions, play hard! Only then will you get a price considered fair, but never good! 

 

Jenna entertaining the kids at Serangan

    

Daniel on the beach at Serangan

An interesting aspect to life in Bali is the way the Balinese name their children. Basically there are only four first names! The first child born is called Wayan, the second called Made (Ma-de), the third in Nyoman and the forth is called Ketut. And the fifth, sixth, seventh etc, well they are Wayan, Made, Nyoman and Ketut again! Very simple, but for us westerners, quite confusing! With Monday always there to assist us, we needed to buy some food and he managed to organised us a vehicle for the day. When the vehicle agreed on did not materialise, he went away and returned with a hi-ace type taxi! It was a rickety old specimen of a vehicle, but served the purpose of a quick visit to Makro, yes Makro, and also to hand my computer in for repairs! The family bailed in and off we went. Heading out of Serangan, there was a huge sinkhole in the road and, not seeing it, we plowed into it at 60km/h! The kids hit the roof and the poor vehicle was almost air born. Checking that everyone was ok, Daniel informed me the back side window had shattered! I assumed the torque on the frame had smashed the window and there was glass on the floor. Fortunately the window was still held together and in place. Jenna insisted that the window was broken before we left, as she was sitting next to it, but none the less I was concerned! After handing in my computer for repairs, we drove into the town of Denpasar, we found a Mc Donald's. With Daniel and Jenna hanging for some junk food, we decided to pop in for lunch. With lunch done, I tried to start the car but it was dead! There the family was, push starting this rust bucket in the parking lot at Mc Donald's! On completing the shopping and returning the car, the broken window was pointed out to us but nothing pursued in terms of having to pay for it, perhaps confirming Jenna's observation that it was broken before leaving. There was also the "lets take a chance as they may pay for it" by the vehicle owners!



A trip to central Bali and Ubud

With a few provisions in place, we hired another car suitable for a tour of Bali and, with Shayile safely on a mooring, (now 40 000 rupee!), we climbed into the car. Armed with our 10 year old Lonely Planet travel guide, we set off. It was a long drive through towns and villages. As we passed into the more rural area, the scenery improved and we entered rice farms with paddy fields covering the landscape. Our first overnight stop was up in the volcanic mountains in central Bali. As no accommodation had been booked, we would need to find it once at a suitable destination. We drove up to the Danau Bratan area in the central mountains. It was a pleasant drive through the rice terraces and we ascended into the cool, mountainous country around Danau Bratan. (It is a lake up in the mountains) Passing Bratan we went on to Danua Buyan and stopped for lunch at a quaint little restaurant overlooking the lake of Buyan. Looking down into the lake, we could see abandoned temples along the shores. With lunch done, we headed back towards Bedugal, the main town in the area. Here we began our search for accommodation. Using our Lonely Planet as a guide, we visited quite a few guest houses and bungalow type accommodation. Again, the price always started at about 300% higher than the going rate and, again, we spent time bargaining down prices for the night. Most of the accommodation on offer was far from satisfactory. They were mostly old and dirty and, with no upkeep in any of the rooms and with poor facilities, we moved on to the next one. Eventually we found something vaguely suitable and, after hard bargaining, checked in for the night. That afternoon we went off to the local market in Bedugul and began a 2 hour hard bargaining shopping outing. As soon as we arrived at the first shop in the market, we were surrounded by touts thrusting all kinds of souvenirs and trinkets in our faces! Now wising up to the bargaining procedures, we totally ignored them, and went in to where the shops were. Again, we were virtually man handled into the shops by eager traders. B went off shopping for gifts and items to take home one day, whilst the kids and I went off looking at what was on offer. Jenna needed a watch as hers had packed in one day after Christmas, her Christmas present! We came across a guy with a tray of watches strapped around his neck. On offer were genuine imitation watches, all with labels! Jenna took a fancy to a "Chanel" watch and I did my best to bargain him down to a price I though acceptable. Jenna eventually got her watch. I also caught sight of a Rolex watch. Starting at 700 000 rupee, I offered 100 000 and then I  turned and walked away. For the next 1 to 2 hours, the tout followed me around and slowly the price came down. Every time I offered a price he would plead bankruptcy and shock that I would him insult him with such a price! None the less, down came the price and I eventually picked it up for 150 000 rupee. Even at that price I am sure I did not get the bargain of a life time but the tout certainly expressed the signs that I had ripped him off. All part of their tact to get a better price!! I then gave Daniel and Jenna R50 each to buy something that they fancied, also doing my best to try introduce them to the art of bargaining. With my assistance, Daniel bought a so called traditional blow pipe complete with darts. Unfortunately I did not get to Jenna in time and she was taken. I was furious, but the deal was done and we all learned a lesson in bargaining! After an interesting few hours, we decided to buy dinner and head back to the bungalows. As we all love chicken satays, I ordered 30 tiny shriveled up Chicken satays. Once cooked we then bought a few mielies and headed back to the bungalow. That evening we sat and ate our dinner, but soon realised that the chicken was not all chicken. We had been sold quite a few bunny satays! The kids were not too happy, but we ate them. Again, one needs to be so careful when ordering. Clearly the guy cooking the chicken satays did not have enough so snuck in quite a few bunny satays! (Very popular in the area).

Rob chatting to a paddy field worker

Next morning we attempted breakfast at the inn, but after an unsuccessful attempt, decided to head into town and buy some breakfast there! Unfortunately we were not that impressed with the area and what it had to offer. Although naturally stunning, it seemed a "has been" area and not somewhere to spend a week relaxing! Although we planned to spend 2 days there, we thought it best to head off down to the art and crafts district around the town of Ubud. We set off back down and again, an interesting drive down through the rice fields and villages. We stopped off for lunch at a Babi Guling restaurant just outside Ubud. These are pork restaurants scattered across Bali and serve only pork! It was an interesting meal of assorted pork meat, fat and sausages along with rice and a few vegetables. Interesting but not a restaurant we were going to rush back to! After lunch we continued towards Ubud and soon entered the stone carving sector of Ubud. Ubud is renown for its art and crafts and, interestingly enough, the town is "divided" or separated by areas pertaining to the nature of the crafts produced. There is the wood carving area, the stone carving area and the weaving area. This is very noticeable as you drive through the different parts of Ubud. Lining the roads is row upon row of shops all carrying out the same craft! We entered Ubud and began our search for accommodation. Referring to our Lonely Planet, we looked for a "home stay". This is a kind of B&B where one can live in the home of a local Balinese family and experience a part of their way of life. At a tourist information centre of sort, B went in to enquire on places to stay. One was pointed out and a rate of 250 000rupee given. The guy giving the info jumped in with us and we drove the short distance to the hotel. On inspecting the room, we decided to take him up on the offer. However things had now changed and the price was now 350 000 rupee! When asked why the change in price, we were told this was a superior room and the others were not available. With that I picked up our bags and told B and the kids to jump in the car. This was a typical stunt to pull on price and we were not falling for it, regardless of the quality of the room!  After a checking out a few home stays, we eventually found the Nuriani Roof Garden Guest House. The folks were pleasant and the house very clean and presentable. We checked in for 3 days.

 

Ubud

With a place to stay, we were ready to tackle Ubud! Over the next 3 days, we explored Ubud and did our best to bargain for artifacts, presents and other pieces of art we found we really could not live without! Ubud is really one big shopping center with all the traps of one. With the constant harassment from shop keepers and the need to negotiate and bargain for everything, it can get quite tiring. On occasions, when something was spotted that we found interesting, we didn't even have the energy to begin the whole process, and walked on by! Entering a shop meant being shown every item and explained how it was made by their poor granny at home. (As the same item appeared in every shop down the lane, poor granny must have been very busy! The bargaining process usually went something like this : After picking up something we liked, we would enquire on a price. Opening price was usually 3 to 4 times its value. "400 000 rupee for the picture." Too much, not worth it, I would reply. "How much you want?" (Putting the ball in our court) 50 000 rupee, I would reply and walk away. "You are killing me.... how about 300 000 rupee?"  Heading towards the door, my reply "50 000". "Ok, ok, special for you 200 000. Now the plan is to loose interest and begin looking at something else! "Ok, I make special price, first customer for day, 150 000rupee" (Amazing the difference already!) "70 000", came my reply, now showing total lack of interest. "Oh no, you bunkrot me, cannot do!" Now outside the store we stand and look about. "Ok mister, for you 100 000 rupee". (There is a sign of him now being totally dejected by the way the bargaining process is going; he is now playing on our emotions!) "70 000 is my price. Any more and I have a very bad feeling in my body", I would reply. "Ok, ok (now looking miserable) your take it for 75 000. I lose money!" Done, and I hand over the 75 000 rupee, with the shopkeeper now showing signs that business is really tough!. Deal done we walk away, feeling we did well. Only to chat to someone later with the same article and find they got it for 50 000!!! Yes, we got some fantastic bargains and, yes, sometimes we paid too much, but it was all part of the process of buying anything in Bali. Fortunately we did find the "wholesale" side of Ubud and bought most of our goods there, not having to do too much negotiating and the prices were a lot cheaper.

Rice Fields outside Ubud

           

Best meal in Bali at Nuri’s!

The home stay was very interesting and great to learn a bit about the day to day life in a typical middle to upper class family. What amazed us was the religious aspect. Each house has its family temple, (Sanggah Kemulan) usually situated in the front garden and occupying a large space. These were elaborate thatch like structures of all sizes. They are not necessarily dedicated to any particular deceased person, but a "home" and place of worship for the ancestors, and may include shrines to the Hindu trinity. Each morning a ritual takes place where offerings are made up and placed throughout the house, in various places including outside the house walls. The process and commitment to the preparation and placing of these offerings astounded us. Banana leafed plates with flowers, rice, fruit and incense sticks. Once each one is positioned, a small pray takes place. This ritual takes place every morning and, it seems the wealthier the household, the more elaborate the offerings are.

Ancestors temple at Nuriani Guest House

Throughout Bali, down the streets, one will see these offerings in various places, usually only to be eaten by the hundreds of dogs that scavenges around! At Nuriani's we were able to chat to the head of the family and interact with the wife and children. It was great to learn a bit about their way of life. One evening we all went to a traditional dancing show. Again, very interesting with costumes and props used in playing out a religious dance performance. At the end, much to the delight of Daniel, there was a fire dance where some deranged guy danced away barefooted on burning coconut husks! 

 

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Ancient temple visit, with us in the rice fields

Back to Serangan

Having spent 5 days in Ubud, shopped and bargained ourselves exhausted and seen the sites, we drove back to Serangan where Shayile was waiting for us. With the anchorage not a favorite of ours, we decided to head out and across to the island of Lembongan. Whilst in Serangan, we had met an Australian couple on a catamaran. Toby and Vicki were avid surfers and spent 3 to 6 months of the year in Indonesia surfing! They mentioned to us that Lembongan was a great anchorage and offered good surf breaks. Without hanging about, we lifted anchor and set off across the straits to join Toby and Vicki at Lembongan. Battling current, we finally entered the anchorage and managed to pick up a mooring buoy. Each morning, huge tourist ferry boats arrive and anchor up in the small bay. The tourists then embark on a day of parasailing, jet ski-ing and enjoying various other water sports on offer. Then, in the afternoon, they load up and head back to Bali, leaving the anchorage for us to enjoy into the evening. What Daniel and I really enjoyed was the surf on offer. 3 great surf breaks were on our doorstep, ranging from "Play grounds" for beginners, to "Laceration" through to "Ship wrecks" where the big stuff was on offer. With Playgrounds within paddling distance of Shayile, myself and Daniel would jump off and paddle out to the surf break. There we would spend many hours in the surf brushing up on those surf skills. Daniel became a real little "Surfer Dan" and would wake up each morning and check to see what the surf was doing. Then he would report in to me on the conditions and the waves, and off we would go for our morning surf together. I never attempted "Ship wrecks" but "Lacerations" produced a great wave and I spent time working on my skills of sitting on a board, chatting to mates, and enjoying the scenery! After a week of surf, relax and sundowners with Toby and Vicki, a signal came through that it was time to leave!

Daniel & Jenna after a morning surf 

One evening, the surf picked up and a huge ground swell began to roll into the small bay at Lembongan. Thinking it was tidal, we put up with the motion and then went off to bed. As the night progressed, the size of the swells increased. B and I began to keep anchor watch as the swell increased and the waves began to form on the reef close to us. Toby was anchored closer to the beach and in the middle of the night, he realised that it was no longer a safe bet. Should the mooring line break in the now huge swell, he would be on the beach in no time. They cast off and went further out to another buoy. Through the night we watched as Shayile rose and sank as each swell passed under us. We could see the other large boats anchored further out to see, rising as swells came in. Then they were on us and, at times, we wondered if they were going to break! It was not a pleasant night and early the next morning, we cast off and motored out of Lembongan! Toby and Vicki followed a few hours later. I'm sure the surfers had fun for the next few days but Shayile was not in the surfing mode! Crossing back to Bali was an experience! With current with us, Shayile was doing over 10knots under motor! The swells coming up the straits were the biggest I had ever seen and should they develop into rollers, we would have been in trouble! We later learned that this does occur and huge surf breaks can develop in the straits at times, leading to extremely dangerous conditions for boats. Back in Serangan, we began to plan out next outing - Java and a visit to a volcano!

Kumai & Banjarmasin (Borneo)

Borneo - Indonesian Kalimantan

With the weather now settled, we had a very enjoyable run across to Kalimantan. The sea had calmed down and although the wind blew, it was extremely comfortable. This was perhaps our best passage to date. When crossing the shipping lane, trusty AIS served us well again. (Thanks Joao Mendes - Yacht Mahi Mahi!!) One incident that caught our attention was when a huge tanker went by us, some 3 miles away. On passing us, it made a U-turn and came back on its track. Here we were in the middle of the ocean with a tanker making a U-turn in a shipping lane! I got on the radio and called them up, asking why they had changed course so drastically. I got a reply that they were testing their rudders and that everything was ok. We was kind of surprised by the maneuver? About 15 minutes later, what sounded like the captain of the tanker, called us up. He confirmed that they were carrying out a turning maneuver and that they were now going to turn again and proceed on their course south. Obviously he noted our concern and just called to put our minds at rest! I thanked him and we continued on our voyage east.   

         

More visitors outside Kumai

The Kumai River

We closed in on the Kumai River at about 3pm the next day. Being late in the afternoon, we decided to anchor off the coast and enter the river the next morning. The coast line here is shallow and the shallow depth of 6 meters extends some 4 miles out off the coast. Getting close in to the shore line is not always possible, especially if you do not know the area! We dropped anchor about 3 miles off the coast in 5 meters of water. True to form, within 30 minutes we were hit by a squall. Poor Shayile went on her roller coaster ride again and it became very uncomfortable. Not again! Looking up, we saw many fishing boats heading in towards the shore. Obviously there must have been some kind of village there and the boats were all heading in that direction. With that, we decided to follow the fishing boats in, relying on their local knowledge to keep us out of any trouble. With Maxsea, I had a track to get out, not having to rely on any guidance should we decide to up and leave at any time! I tucked in behind one of the boats and in we went. Sure enough, ahead we saw a village and many small fishing boats anchored off. We finally dropped anchor in 3 meters of water, had the customary visitors, young prawn fishermen who we entertained and then went to bed! We were in Kalimantan, Borneo.

Next day we left early and motor sailed up the Kumai River. The water turned a dirty brown as we negotiated our way in. Perhaps the word "negotiate" is incorrect as the river is about 300 meters wide at its narrowest point! There are sand banks that need to be considered but, as we passed small coastal ships leaving the river, we figured Shayile was ok for depth! As we went further up the river, we entered a jungle environment. Lining the river were palm trees literally growing out of the water. Behind them were mangrove trees, with jungle extending inland from there. (It's interesting to note here, that having read cruising notes of other yachts having visited Kumai, the haze and smoke from extensive burning of the forests is so bad that visibility is sometimes down to less than a mile!) On the river, we passed barges and other coastal trading vessels, bring goods to Kumai and picking up what they could for further trade. For the first time we came across Bugis and Madura schooners used by the Indonesians as trading vessels. However with modern shipbuilding, these are losing popularity, but certainly are unique to Indonesia. As we approached the town of Kumai, we noticed small ships and other boats moored up alongside wharfs. It was not a big town, but the port must serve as a gateway to the interior with the amount of cargo coming and going. We dropped our anchor on the opposite side of the river, away from the port activities. Anchored not far from us was another yacht, the first we had seen since Singapore, but they left within a few hours of us arriving.  We were in Kumai to see the town and, especially, the Orangutans. A few companies offered a guided service into the Tanjung Puting National Park and we needed to tee-up a tour. Within a few hours, we had 2 companies come out and talk us through their packages. That evening B and I decided on one company, going for a 3 day, 2 night tour. Total cost R2 800  for 3 days with 4 crew on a house boat with all meals and drinks, tours and park fees too! (+/- $100 each)

 

    The main road of Kumai

  

                                                                        Daniel at lunch in Kumai

As we had not officially stopped in Indonesia, or had the opportunity to draw money, we needed to do a few formalities first. The next morning we went ashore by dingy and stopped outside Harry's Yacht Services. (Love the name!) Waiting for us as Rudi, who was to be our guide into the National Park. He organised a taxi for us and soon we were heading out of town, on our way to Pangkalanbun, which had a bank and access to ATM's. (not even Kumai could offer the service!)  We must have spent a few hours there, drawing money, buying a few necessary fruits and vegetables and even a souvenirs or 2. Daniel and I bought a huge knife! Jenna became the new owner of some takkies for jungle walking. We then returned to Kumai where we had lunch at, what appeared to be the best restaurant we could find, see picture above. After paying for our tour and dropping off our washing , much to B's delight, and went back to Shayile to prepare for the early morning start into the Tanjung Puting National Park.

Tanjung Puting National Park

The Orangutan rehabilitation centers at Tanjung Puting are like no other in Indonesia. Juvenile or orphaned orangutans are reintroduced into the wild at these centers. As the orangutans grow and learn to live in the wild, they spend longer and longer away from the camps. Many "cannot kick an old habit" and return periodically at feeding times! The increased destruction of the orangutans natural habitat due to logging, farming and mining, worsened by the fires, has made it even more difficult to fully rehabilitate these animals back into the wild.

Canadian researcher Dr Birute' Galdikas, known as "Ibu (mother) professor", began taking in orangutans in the early 1970's, assisted by the Leakey Foundation, the US philanthropic foundation which sponsors research on all great apes. Dr Galdikas properly knows more about orangutans than anyone. In her early days in Tanjung Puting, she would spend weeks tracking wild orangutans and was the first to document the birth interval for these apes, being about once every eight years. This on its own makes them vulnerable to extinction.

The park encompasses more than 305 000 hectares and is home to a vast variety of fauna and flora. It is home to crocodiles, hornbills, wild pigs, bear, cats, macaques, proboscis monkeys, gibbons, pythons and countless more. It is also a habitat for the dragon fish, an aquarium fish worth R700 each, highly sort after by collectors in SE Asia.

Visiting the Orangutans

At 8am the next morning, out Klotok arrived alongside Shayile with Rudi, a skipper, cook Juju and assistant Adi, They were all on board to make our trip into Tanjung as enjoyable and comfortable as possible. Included in the price was a "guard" who was left on Shayile to look after her whilst we were away. We loaded all our luggage on board and climbed onto the roof / deck of the klotok. It was rustic but very comfortable and spacious enough for all of us. At the rear end, (stern) was the toilet and shower which hung off the back! The skipper then started the old diesel engine and we motored on down the river. How wonderful it was to be relaxing whilst others did all the driving, navigating, cooking and cleaning! We pulled up a few cushions and prepared cameras and binoculars for the journey into the park. We turned off the main (Kumai) river and motored up a tributary. Lining the banks were the palm trees and mangroves mentioned earlier. The water was the colour of strong milk coffee, and littered with vegetation debris floating on down the river. As we got further up river, the vegetation lining the river slowly changed and we entered the jungle. It was great to just relax on the deck and look out at the scenery as it passed us by. I even managed to spot 2 small crocodiles on the river banks.

        

      Jenna looking out for wild life

                                                            Fishermen, the dirty water and the palm trees!

   

On deck relaxing as we go up river

     

                                                                         The toilet and shower "room"

After 2 hours, we turned off into an even smaller tributary which must have been 4 - 10 meters wide, the water now having changed to "dark tea without milk" colour, as the leaves and twigs lying on the river bed, slowly rotted and released the tea colour into the still river. Soon we came across our first troop of Proboscis Monkeys with their distinguishable long rubbery noses hanging down on their faces. They are also called Belunda or Dutch monkey because of their long red noses and big tummies. We stopped the klotok and spent 1/2 an hour watching them go about their business high up in the trees. As they slowly made their way further into the jungle, we went on up the river making our way to Camp Leakey, our first stop.

At Camp Leakey, we pulled up next to the jetty and tied up. After a very enjoyable lunch, it was time to go visit the camp and hopefully see a few Orangutans. We armed ourselves with cameras and mosquito lotion and set off along the suspended walk way towards the camp. As we entered camp Leakey, I was surprised by its rustic appearance. I did expect something a bit more "organised". Scattered in the bush were wooden dwellings with smaller storage huts close by. It had been there some time and appeared to need some maintenance. However I need to give a bit of slack here. For an Orangutan research center with, presumably, a tight budget and limited staff, it was an extremely well run establishment! As I got to learn more about the center and the wonderful people that work there, I discovered what an amazing facility this was, and how one women could make such an impact on the survival and research into the Orangutans in Kalimantan. We gathered together with Rudi outside one of the huts, casually chatting about the Orangutans and the "do's and don'ts" when encountering them. No sooner had we finished chatting, we heard something making its way through the trees above the camp. There, slowly and gracefully making its way towards us, was an Orangutan! The guides soon identified it as Chris, a rather lazy Orangutan that tends to hang around the camp looking for food. As it perched itself on a branch on the edge of the clearing, Rudi took out a few bananas and enticed Chris closer. It was really special to see this ape as he groped down towards Rudi's hand and slowly took a banana. Over the next 20 minutes, it remained there whilst Daniel and Jenna fed him bananas and watched him, almost human like, peel and eat them.

     

    Daniel feeding Chris, whilst Jenna waits her turn

 

                                                                        Junior at the feeding platform

You may ask, are these Orangutans truly wild, and the answer is yes. Being a facility for the released of rehabilitated Orangutans, and a facility where these apes can be studied in their natural vegetation, it is no zoo. Every Orangutan lives out in the jungle. However, only differing from human DNA by 4%, they are clever creatures. For weeks on end they will wander through the jungle going about finding food and company, and then they will return to Camp Leakey, almost "checking in" and getting a bit of "free food." Then they are off again, sometimes not spotted for months on end. It is for this reason that seeing Orangutans in the Tanjung  Puting Park is certainly nor guaranteed! The feeding that takes place at Camp Leakey, (and the other camps) is purely a supplement to relieve stress on the released animals and is NOT a means of keeping them alive and sheltered.

Each afternoon at 2pm, a whole stack of bananas are taken into the jungle and dumped onto a feeding platform. Then the rangers go about making loud calls to alert the nearby animals. Those Orangutans in the area will come down from the trees and feed. It was here that we would see them feeding, that is if there were any in the area! We made our way through the jungle for about 2km's on route to the feeding platform. As we approached the clearing, in the path ahead was an Orangutan with a baby on its back, slowly making its way along the path with all of us towards the platform! It was quite unperturbed by our presence behind it and just ambled on towards her afternoon snack. Her name was Princess and is, perhaps one of the most well known Orangutans in Tanjung Puting. She was raised in the park at the same time as Dr Birute' Galdikas's own son. She bonded with one of the Researchers and he taught Princess sign language to communicate with, and she now knows over thirty signs. Princess is about 30 and has had 5 babies. An orangutan baby is never physically separated from its mother for the first 6 months of its life, and then continues to live with its mother for the next 8 years. They are weaned at about 7 years and have to leave and fend for themselves when the next baby arrives, usually at age 8 after the mother produces a new offspring in a leafy nest high in a tree. An orangutan pregnancy lasts 9 months. As Princess ambled in with her little furry orange scrap, (+ 4 months old) draped across her shoulders, her 8 year son, Percy, grabbed a bunch of bananas and ran over to give them to his mother and little sister. It was a very sweet and touching sight. After a little cuddle, Princess shambled over to where all us tourists sat on rustic benches and she climbed up next to us and enjoyed her bananas. Amazing and we were all thrilled at her nonchalance.

 

Blowing B a kiss!!

Pondering, after a good feed of bananas

We all sat around under the trees and watched as the Orangutans as they slowly made their way out of the trees and down to the feeding platform for bananas. We must have spent 2 hours there just watching the antics of these magnificent creatures. Almost human like they eat, interact and groom themselves, certainly with no concept of time or pace at which to do things! After a while, it began to rain and the Orangutans took the necessary action and made umbrellas! We laughed and laughed, as each one of them picked some vegetation, made themselves an umbrella and sat out the rain up in the trees! After an entertaining afternoon watching the Orangutans, we returned to Camp Leakey and then back to our Klotok for sundowners and dinner. It was a memorable day in the jungle observing these incredible human like apes in their natural vegetation.

       

An Orangutan umbrella!!

                                                                         Daniels umbrella hat



The Klotok motored down river for about 1km and there we anchored up for the night. Te meals on board were excellent and Juju did a fine job each meal time in preparing something that the whole family tucked into and enjoyed. We all sat around and chatted and then climbed into our tent of a mozzie net, where our beds had been prepared for us. We were still on the upper deck and great to be out in the open, amongst the jungle and its creatures. Thank goodness for the mozzie net as they dive bombed the net trying to get in! After reading books, we all fell asleep exhausted after a full days activities.

Next day we went back to Camp Leakey and there we picked up a guide who would take us trekking into the jungle. The four of us, Rudi and the guide set off on what was quite an epic walk! Unfortunately with the guide not able to speak English, we battled to communicate and gather information on the jungle around us. However it was still very interesting and we stopped many times to admire trees, look for Orangutans, examine Tarantula holes in the ground and explore off the track. It was very humid and wet in the jungle which made going tiring. After 3 hours, Daniel started to loose his sense of humour. It came to a head when he slipped on the path and fell, right onto a gathering of Fire Ants!! They bit into him and the poor guy went crazy trying to get rid of them. We all came to his rescue, but the damage was done and he wanted out of the rain forest! At that moment I looked down towards my foot, only to see a leach had attached itself to my ankle! I had not felt the little blighter at all and it had attached itself through my sock. We got rid of it but then the blood flowed from the wound where the leach had been busy. They release an anti-coagulant when sucking and this prevents blood clotting. With that, the bleeding continues for quite some time, perhaps an hour or more! Rudi decided to "fix" the problem and took tobacco, put it into a band aid and stuck it over the wound. He told me this would stop the bleeding. Now whether this was some ancient, traditional medication for leach bits, or bit of "Crocodile Dundee / Let me trick the guests into believing I know this traditional medication"; I have no idea. It did not work and the bleeding continued for over an hour!!

      

     "Kate Moss" and Daniel taking a break in the jungle

Our guide, B, Jenna and Daniel under a Buttress Tree

We arrived back in Camp Leakey much to the joy of Daniel. We did a look around the information center which had many fascinating articles and information on Orangutans, the jungle, its destruction and ongoing support to keep the Orangutan project going successfully.

After lunch which we enjoyed back on our Klotok, we went back into Camp Leakey to watch the afternoon feed in the jungle. However it poured down with rain and the feed was cancelled. Although disappointing, we had an entertaining afternoon in Camp Leakey watching a few Orangutans make their way through the camp. Chris was in a bad mood! He wanted food and the rangers refused to feed him in the camp. It was like a kid performing as he threw his toys out the cot. Within 20 minutes he had virtually destroyed a 8 meter high tress, ripping all its branches off and pulling down the vines that grew up its trunk. It was amazing to watch the strength as he ripped the branches to shreds. Next to visit the camp was Kosasi, a legend male Orangutan that featured in a documentary on the National Geographic program. He was found in a loggers camp and brought to Camp Leakey. Still very young, he wandered off into the jungle and everyone thought that was the end of him. However, months later he reappeared at Camp Leakey and, over time, developed into a dominant male Orangutan. When Julia Roberts visited  Tanjung Puting, Kosasi was there and even tried to give her a big hug, which caused a fiasco as rangers tried to step in and assist Julia! Although a dominant male in the jungle for years, poor Kosasi had been ousted by Tom, a younger dominant male, and now Kosasi was on his own. He was a huge ape, but looking a bit tatty from numerous fights in the jungle. Seeking sanctuary, he visits Camp Leakey every so after, looking for a meal. After many hours of enjoying the Orangutans, we left Camp Leakey and returned to our Klotok. Again we motored on down the river and anchored up for the night. The 4 of us enjoyed a great dinner and then all climbed into our mozzie net tent and chatted away about the day and the sights we had seen.

       

              The kitchen and chefs on our Klotok

Jenna asleep in our mozzie tent bed

Waking up to our last day in the park, we motored on down to Camp Two. After breakfast, we went ashore and back into the jungle for the morning feed. Unfortunately we just had one male Orangutan came down for food. Although perhaps disappointing for eager camera clad tourists, it is great news for the rangers. With no Orangutans visiting the feeding platforms, it meant that there was ample food in the jungle and that there was no need for the local Orangutans to supplement their diet with bananas! We left Camp Two and an hour down stream, we pulled up outside a village. We disembarked and, with Rudi showing us the way, we meandered through the village, meeting the people, taking a few pictures and just taking in the way of life of these villages. A few worked for the Orangutan Foundation, whilst most were farmers and fishermen. What caught our attention, (and has throughout the parts of Indonesia that we have so far visited) is the happiness and seemingly contentment with their way of life. Us westerners may question their basic, almost hand to mouth existence, wondering how they get fulfillment from their day to day living. Words like "ambition" and "growth" and "careers" seem to not exist! Without living their way of life, we may not know. I'm sure there are other dynamics that put stress and pressure on their daily lives but, they just seem so content!!

After the village it was off to our last camp for the afternoon feed. Again not a big turn out of Orangutans but we sat around quietly and watched those few come down for an afternoon feed. I could sit for hours on end watching these fascinating apes go about eating, grooming, interacting and climbing. They each have individual personalities with each one almost reminding you of someone you know based on their interaction with others or perhaps their shy way as they move about in the jungle!

With the last feed at Camp Three, we returned to our Klotok and headed for home. Our venture into the park had been a "once in a lifetime" adventure and one we will never forget! How fortunate Daniel and Jenna are to having witnessed these wonderful apes, the Orangutans, in their natural habits. With pessimism, I wonder if Daniel and Jenna would be able to give their children the same adventure. With the demise of the rain forests and jungles in Borneo and Sumatra, the future for Orangutans looks bleak.

    

                       A village house built on stilts

Village children making a fish trap

We returned to Kumai late that afternoon and boarded Shayile. All was well with her and, although looking very dirty around the hull due to the water, she was in high spirits and welcome us home!

With not much else to see in Kumai, we stayed on a further 2 days exploring the town and buying a few provisions for the next leg of our journey. B and I left Dan and Jenna on Shayile and went into the market one morning. We had a very interesting time walking around visiting the vendors trading their wares on small tables and even on the floor. B managed to find most the fruit and vegetables required for the next leg through to Banjarmasin, but we decided to return again in the afternoon with Daniel and Jenna. After lunch we did return and, again wandered through the market (Pasar) with Daniel and Jenna in tow. Jenna was a hit and everyone wanted to touch her and have a photo taken. Most people have cell phones with a camera facility, so poor Jenna was harassed to within an inch of her life, whilst folks took pictures of her! An interesting feature within the town of Kumai is the "apartment blocks" designed for birds! Yes, the local Chinese have a thriving business, using these specially designed apartments for birds to nest in. Swallows, thousands of them, nest in the apartments and the owners then harvest the nests, which are then exported to China. There they are apparently used to make bird nest soup! We never indulged in any but we did buy 1kg of prawns for R20, but paid R8 for a pineapple!! After walking every alley and walk way, we eventually returned to Shayile for a feast. Myself and Dan got busy cleaning the prawns whilst B and Jenna prepared garlic butter. The 1kg of prawns hardly went the distance as we tucked into them like starved nomads! With supplies, full water and lots of diesel, we were ready to leave Kumai. With strong tidal currents in the river, we had to time our exit with a falling tide. Next morning we left the anchorage in Kumai as the tide was going out and made our way down to the mouth of the Kumai river. We anchored up in a protected bay and spent the rest of the day schooling and relaxing. The plan was to start early the next morning, timing it that we would arrive in Banjarmasin mid day or perhaps later the next afternoon.

   

Traders at the market in Kumai

Banjarmasin

The leg from Kumai to Banjarmasin, along the Kalimantan southern coast was pleasant enough and with the wind from behind, we even flew the spinnaker. Unfortunately we also had to motor a fair bit of the way as the wind died completely. The only advantage to motoring on calm seas is I get to enjoy my sleep. With the therapeutic humming and vibrating engines, I feel quite comfortable and sleep is a pleasure. 30 hours later we arrived at the entrance to the Barito River. Banjarmasin is not a place visited by many yachts and we have yet to meet anyone who has been there. Guide books hardly mention the place but those that did had interesting reports on how it was the "Venice of the East". With its waterways and floating markets, we thought it would be an interesting place to visit, nothing like anything we had seen before. Besides that, it was not too far off the route to Bali. So with no guidelines on what to expect or where to go, we approached the channel leading up the river. First surprise was the number of ships anchored just outside the channel. There must have been no fewer than 30 large ships all at anchor. Fortunately we timed it just right as the tide started to push. This would assist us up the river. Unfortunately every other vessel using the river had the same plan! As we entered the channel, tugs towing barges and ships of all kind converged on the channel. Worse still, the "rules of the road" did not apply! (International rules there to assist ship movements and the instructions necessary for safe passage at sea.) Here it was free for all! Worse still, it made the Singapore straits look like a back road. I saw a barge up ahead and tucked in behind it, figuring we were safe from traffic heading down river. Up ahead, we saw a "traffic jam". With the tide pushing but not full enough for many of the large barges and ships, a few barges had run aground. This posed no real concern to them and they just sat it out waiting for the tide to fill and carry them off the sand!  At this stage, we pulled out of the lane and made our way across to shallow waters. Here we would be safe from the traffic. With our draft of only 1 meter, Shayile would have sufficient water under her keels. I have to admit it was nerve racking business and both B and I commented that this was not for the feint hearted, perhaps reason why so few yachts actually visited Banjarmasin! Hopefully it would be worth the stress and effort. About 2 hours later, we entered the river mouth. It was a huge river, even bigger than the Kumai river and must have been 600 meters to 1 km wide. It was chocolate coloured water with vegetation and other debris everywhere! I was even apprehensive about the engines cooling system being clogged up with debris. As we motored on in, I clung to the left hand bank, staying well away from the traffic. We were shocked to see how the barges swung out, as the tidal current pushed them out from behind the barges towing them. Getting in the way would be a disaster! Although the traffic stayed with us, the scenery improved and soon we were looking out onto paddy fields and small villages lining the river banks. Everyone was waving at us, calling out greetings and smiling from ear to ear. Another indication that yachts are hardly  seen??!

     

            Tugs pulling massive barges up the river

    

Rural villages on the Barito River (Banjarmasin)    

4 hours after entering the channel, we approached what appeared to be the beginning of the city of Banjarmasin.  Up ahead were huge barges anchored in the middle of the river, tugs were moving about and an assortment of ships and other boats were going about their business. Our first plan was to try check in. We had now been in Indonesia for 5 weeks without being able to check into the country. Although it gave us an additional months stay in Indonesia, (3 month visa + the one month where we did not check in) we felt we were starting to push our luck and questions may be asked as to why we took so on to check in. Identifying the river junction ahead where we were to turn off out of the main river, we angled towards it. Going on the crude charts and outdated information we had, it was up this tributary that customs and immigration were located. We turned into the small channel and motored through one of the most fascinating housing establishments we had ever seen. Lining both sides of the river were hundreds of houses all built on stilts and interlinked by wooden walkways. Some of the houses, and even shops, were actually floating on huge rafts made up of bamboo poles and what appeared to be reed. With this river / channel only about 10 to 30 meters wide, we had to pick our way through, avoiding the shallow inside banks. We marveled at the surroundings. Small river craft zoomed up and down, kids played in the river, and everyone waved to us! We motored past floating hardware stores, general dealers, motor mechanics, mosques and schools. It was an amazing sight and we snapped happily away with our cameras. Unfortunately we were also entering logging territory and soon we came across a huge saw mill where, outside, there were hundreds of logs floating about outside. Barges were off loading huge logs, freshly cut and ready for the saw mill. This was just the beginning and we were to see a lot more. Soon we came to an "intersection" where up ahead there appeared to be a harbour where small boats were tied up. Close by was the customs building, but there appeared to be no life at all. A bunch of guys on boats tied up along side, called us over, showing us where to tie up. I steered Shayile alongside and we tied up to a boat. No sooner were we secure when no fewer than 8 guys descended on Shayile, all very cheerful and friendly. I did my best to get some information on customs and immigration, only to be told "besok." (tomorrow) They were obviously closed for business. Not keen to remain in a harbour environment, tied up alongside trading boats, we motored back out into the main river and found a spot on the opposite bank, as much away from the hustle and bustle of the barges and ships. We were in Banjarmasin and this place was a hive of activity.

    

        Dan & Jenna with the ladies at customs

Kids at the Water Police station

The following day, we needed to get the checking in procedures over and done with. Daniel, Jenna and I climbed into the ducky. Whilst B stayed behind on Shayile, we sped across the river towards the customs building. Tie-ing  up, we went ashore and were soon given directions on where to check in. In all it must have taken us 3 hours to complete procedures at customs and immigration. Again Jenna was a hit and everyone wanted a photo of her. Taking kids to these official offices has a distinct advantage at times. Daniel and Jenna get pampered and whole checking in procedures seem to go off a lot smoother! The staff were friendly and insisted on taking 300 photos of the kids! Once done, we left and walked a short distance down the road to the local police station. I was instructed to go there to get permission and advice on where best to anchor for the night. 150 more photos, and advice to go to the Water Police on the main river. We eventually turned to Shayile and motored down the river to the Water Police. A few formalities there and they told us to anchor directly off their offices. (which were right on the river) I did feel kind of exposed with barges and other vessels passing close by in both direction, but we were told it would be ok?!  With Shayile "safely" anchored off a police station, we took the opportunity to go exploring on the rubber duck. We needed to take a closer look at all the floating houses ands waterways. With cameras in hand, we set off and motored down a channel, lined with houses. It turned into an unbelievable experience, one of those travel moments that exposes you to something never seen before! Puttering along slowly we were able to take pictures, wave to the local folk and stop off when we saw something interesting. For 2 hours we motored and were awe struck by the way of life, the daily existence in an environment so foreign to anything we had  previously seen on our travels. We returned to Shayile later in the afternoon, and chatted away over a cup of coffee on the whole experience.

B: I was amazed at the amount of bathing, washing and even teeth brushing that went on in the muddy river. Men in underpants and women in sarongs stood and sat on little platforms, kind of staircases at different levels for different tidal conditions, and scooped water over their heads with long handled bowls. Apparently the Indonesians just don't 'see' each other at times like these, also very few women had their heads covered and very few men wore skullcaps. Children swam around, some with nifty armbands and 'pool-type' floatation toys then were soaped down and dried off. All this took place just before sundown and before the mosquito's made their appearance. The amounts of brightly coloured laundry was boggling, virtually every house was adorned with batik cloth and clothing, sheets and shirts. We had already been exposed to the men's habit of washing their large underpants and leaving them to dry in prominent sunny places whilst in Kumai. Now I understood the reason - they are worn to wash in! We also chatted to a guy who was washing his beautiful but scarred and battle-worn fighting cock. We were invited into lots of homes but decided just to chat and wave from the dingy and were carried along by a wave of excited children. It was wonderful just seeing, smiling and waving with no-one asking us for anything. We were never refused when we asked permission to take photo's, in fact most people insisted that they were photographed. Incredible that people who live in 'wooden crates' in swarms of mosquitoes with no privacy and on top of each other, could be so happy and colourful. We loved it, very uplifting!

       

                     Houses lining the river

Happy folk, washing themselves and their clothes

       

Local trading store on stilts

                                                            Welcoming committee in Banjarmasin!



Unfortunately we were in for another "night from hell!" I went off to bed apprehensive about our position in the river, and the amount of traffic that was passing. I could not sleep, and jumped up every 10 minutes as barges passed by. Soon there were "maneuvers" of barges close by, with tugs puling the barges in all directions. With that on the go, there were other ships and barges passing us and the maneuvering barges. It was unsettling and should one of those barges misjudge the current or a small turn, we would be side swiped and destroyed. I was not happy and after one particularly close shave, told B we needed to move closer to the police station and away from the traffic lane! Next problem was the wind, current and lack of depth the closer we got to the police station. We must have anchored no fewer than 15 times, trying to get Shayile into the best position possible, away from the traffic but safe from not swinging onto land! Eventually I pulled out our stern anchor and dropped that astern, with our primary anchor up front. With 4 meters of water under us, we were safe for 5 hours, before the tide would chase us further out into deeper water. With the remainder of the night disturbed by broken sleep, and the tide now going out, we awoke at 4.30am and moved Shayile into deeper water. Not a good night at all.

Something we were keen to see was the floating market with takes place each morning from sunrise to about 10am. Still tired from lack of sleep, B and I had a cup of coffee and then woke up Daniel and Jenna. We hopped into the ducky and set off up the canals towards the town of Banjarmasin, looking for the market. Again it was an enjoyable trip, again taking in all that the canal had to offer in terms of day to day commerce and activities. We meandered our way up river for about 6km's and then took a small canal off into the city itself. Fascinating! It must have been 6 meters wide with houses looming overhead, bridges to pass under and small boats buzzing up and down going about their business. Eventually we exited the canal, emerging back into the main Barito River. It was here that we found the floating market. Littering the banks of the river, up against the many dwellings, were boats, stacks of them, each selling or trading their wares. They were mostly small boats with fruit and vegetables on display. Others were little bakeries and some even delicatessens! Larger boats were little "restaurants" with small boats tied up along side and their occupants enjoying a morning meal and coffee. On the waters edge shops, supermarkets, hardware stores and eating houses all traded with passing boats. It was all happening at the morning market and we enjoyed taking it all in. We bought fruit and vegetables and then pulled up alongside a boat selling little cakes, rice and other small eats. I was given a long bamboo stick with a spike on the end and told to "spear" what was wanted. It was exciting as I selected what Dan, Jena and B were calling out to me. We then ordered 2 cups of coffee and sat back and enjoyed the little feast! Unfortunately we did get ripped off on the price but, hey, it was an experience and only really amounted to about R17!! Finishing up with snacks, we visited a few stores before heading on back to Shayile, this time following the main river. It was up at this stretch of river that we witnessed the logging industry at its worst! Situated along the river banks were huge mills, all involved in the production of planks, plywood and other forest destroying activities. Outside these saw mills were barges laden with logs, all waiting to be chopped up. In the few days that we were in Banjarmasin and the number of barges we saw with logs present, one cannot comprehend the number of huge trees, not plantation trees but trees from the jungle, that have been destroyed! It is very sad indeed! Human greed and complete ignorance.

   

Canal leading towards the floating market

                                                              Choosing eats off a boat with a "spike stick"



Belinda choosing a water melon

 

                                                                        Sun hats for Jenna and Daniel

Returning to Shayile, we decided it was time to move. We were not prepared to spend another night in the river, anxious about being hit by a barge. We upped anchor and motored on down the river, looking for shelter and protection. In the middle of the Barito River, a little way down stream, there is a huge island. We identified a passage between the island and mainland, away from the main "highway" and took Shayile up, looking for an anchorage. Off some paddy fields, we dropped anchor and relaxed, knowing we were well away from everyone and now able to enjoy a good nights sleep!

We spent 3 days at this anchorage, again catching up with school work and other on board chores. We also explored the paddy fields around us and, oh yes, had visitors! One guy even gave us a ride in his long tail boat! We bought fruit off the locals and just chilled out in a beautiful little anchorage. After 3 days, we decided it was time to move again, this time due south, on our way to Bali. There was an island on route which appeared to be a possible anchorage, but we would need to explore that possibility once we were there. We upped anchor and made our way out into the "highway" on route out of the Barito River. Again, total carnage in the channel leading out into the open sea. Barges were running aground and others were doing their best to avoid the shallow spots. We decided to keep well out of the way but that too was scary as we inched our way over depths as shallow as 2.2 meters, leaving just over a meter under the keels! 3 hours later we were out and into the deep seas. After a rain squall the sky lit up with a massive double rainbow, replicating B's mood as she had just had replies to her long overdue emails to her bridesmaids Jo and Angie. The sails went up, the auto pilot went on and we settled into life on another ocean leg. Unfortunately the wind did not last long and we soon had a motor on, cruising at a steady 4 knots. The wind never really returned and for the next 18 hours we motored south towards the island of  Pulau Keramian.