I phoned Nono, our guide from Menjangan, and planned our trip to Java. With all arrangements confirmed, we packed our bags, put Shayile back onto a mooring, hired a car and set off for Teluk Gilimanuk. It was a long drive up through central Bali and then along the north western coastline towards Gilimanuk but it was enjoyable and interesting to see another part of Bali. We passed through many rice fields, local villages and tourist centers on route, and after 4 hours of driving, we pulled into the Marine Park at where Nono was waiting for us. After a quick lunch, we changed vehicles and climbed into a mini bus organised by Nono for the trip. With a driver taking control of our safety, we set off for the ferry terminal at Gilimanuk. Just outside the terminal, we were stopped by police and we noticed money changing hands. Then into the terminal where payment for the trip was made. On the ferry, more money exchanged hands once the vehicle was parked. B and I just looked at us in amazement! It was an old rust bucket of a ferry but did the required task and we crossed the Selat Bali straits to the town of Ketapang on Java mainland. Here we got back into the mini bus and headed off through the town and out into the country side.
Local village on Java, on way to Mt Ijen
We soon began the slow climb up into the surrounding hills. The scenery changed from paddy fields to farm lands where cloves trees were grown. Then into the coffee plantations, much to the delight of B and I!! Climbing higher we entered the rain forests and soon emerged on the top of the volcanic mountainous range. Now descending, we passed through cabbage and other vegetable fields. Clearly mass deforestation had taken place years before and it was now replaced by hills of cabbages! We soon reached our home stay for the night where we checked in. It appeared to be an old military base or a company compound of sort, perhaps set up when logging was an industry in the area. It was a tired place but what does one expect in this mountainous region of Java. We upgraded our room to "VIP status" and settled in, but not before our compulsory cup of Indonesia coffee!
Next morning we were up early and on our way up to Mount Ijen.. Arriving at the base camp, we parked and walked across to a small Warung where we tucked into a bit of breakfast, comprising of noodles and eggs. Nono gave us a quick talk about Mt Ijen and what to expect as we walked up to the crater rim. At about 9am, the Bentley family, along with Nono, set off up Mt Ijen. Within 500 meters, we came across the first guy carrying sulphur down from the top. Between a strong flattened bamboo pole was 2 woven grass baskets. With the bamboo pole slung over one shoulder and supported by his upper back muscles, large quantities of sulphur chunks were in the baskets and on their way down Mt Ijen. Nono informed us that they weighed upward of 70kg's with some guys carrying up to 90kg's! As we walked on, B and I came to the conclusion that this was a slight exaggeration. Carrying a 20kg back pack whilst hiking can be strenuous, perhaps the weight was between 40 and 60kg's. More guys passed us and along the path we soon found abandoned baskets of sulphur. Nono informed us that the "mules" carry 2 loads at a time. 2 empty baskets are carried to the top and loaded. Then one is carried for an hour or so, and then put down. Back they go for the second basket and it is then carried to where the first one was left. This procedure takes place all the way down to the bottom. Coming across one load lying alongside the path, we decided to try pick it up. With difficulty I lifted it off the ground and, turning to B, explained that perhaps it was a little more than 50kg's! After about 2 hours, we reached the weigh-in station some 2km from the base station. Here we watched as guys carrying the sulphur on their backs, placed the loads on a scale where it was weighed. To our amazement, the loads varied in weight from 70kg's to 85kg's! We could not believe that loads like this were carried down the volcano by men! At the weigh in station, we bought packs of cigarettes. These were to be handed out to guys on their way down with loads, especially if a photo was required of them. Yes, they carry the loads and smoke like chimneys!
Daniel offering a cigarette to a sulphur carrier
On we went higher up towards the crater rim. Soon we entered cloud and concerned ourselves with the possibility of not being able to see into the crater on reaching the top. An hour later we reached the top and stood on the crater rim. It was a barren landscape; very rocky with volcanic stones and pebbles. Looking into the crater rim, we saw a huge lake of green coloured water, perhaps with a hint of yellow to its color. Billowing out of the crater was foul smelling smoke, an egg like smell from the sulphur.
The family on the crater rim of Mt Ijen
At this stage we were still wondering where the sulphur was mined and Nono explained that it was mined down in the crater rim and that we might see it as we traversed the crater rim. It was not easy going as the smoke was overpowering at times. We reached the point where the human mules were emerging from the crater itself. After some discussions with one of the guys carrying sulphur, Nono told me that the guy would take me down into the rater to the mine itself. Not to be outdone, Daniel asked if he could join us, or should I say, told us he would join us! Nono, B and Jenna remained up top whilst Daniel and I, along with our guide, descended into the crater. It was a tricky climb down over boulders and slippery stones under foot. To complicate matters was the foul, choking, smelly smoke that consumed us every 15 minutes or so. It was like walking in the mist, but not nearly as pleasant! We wrapped our shirts around our faces and kept going! On we went, down into the crater, as human pack mules loaded with sulphur slowly made their way out. We then appreciated the difficulty of the climb out. Once at the rater rim it was down hill and I still am not sure which part was the more difficult; going up or down! About 40 minutes later we were at the bottom and emerged at the mines. The sloping crater wall fell into the lake. On the slopes, fissures billowed plumes of smoke and from these fissures, molten sulphur has solidified and was now being chipped and prized away using huge steel rods. The whole area was coated in a thick layer of yellow sulphur dust. Each of the fissure was "tapped" by a pipe, directing the smoke and molten sulphur as required. The sulphur itself is quite soft and breaks up quite easily. Once chunks have been broken off, they are loaded into the woven baskets.
Loading baskets with sulphur
Daniel in the mine
Once loaded to the required capacity, it is lifted up onto the mule’s backs and away it goes on its 4km journey down to the base camp. It is weighed twice, once on the volcano and the other at base camp. The human mules are then paid 50 cents, (S.African) 500 rupee per kg! Carrying 2 loads at an average of 150kg's per load, these guys get paid R75 a day. (USD10) Doing it every day and perhaps a bit of money can be made but with loads this heavy and the demand on the legs, back and shoulders severe, only 2 or 3 trips can be done each week. That amounts to R900 a month!! Worse still, the sulphur goes to pharmaceutical companies, and we all know the money these guys make, regardless of the product! The toll on the body must be devastating, with the knees taking a pounding on the way down.
Men at work in the crater
We spent half an hour in the crater watching the guys at work and appreciating the appalling conditions they put up with in order to make a living! Daniel was even given a chunk of sulphur as a memento. As mentioned, the whole mine area is covered by a yellow film of sulphur dust and choking in sulphur fumes and soon it was time for us to head on out. The climb out was tiring as we made our way up over boulders and loose gravel, every so often being overcome with fumes billowing out below us. We emerged at the crater rim relieved to be out of the mine pit, but fascinated by what we had seen and experienced. B and Jenna had walked back to the beginning of the descent from the crater rime in order to escape the intoxicating fumes. B was very relieved to see us, and Daniel went on to explain to his mom all he had seen down at the mine. We then all turned and slowly made our way back down to the weigh in station, and from there we slowly ambled on down Mt Ijen as human pack mules passed us on their way down.
Carrying the sulphur out of the crater
At the bottom, now back in the parking lot, we sat around and chatted amongst ourselves, still on a high from having experienced something so special. I turned to Daniel and Jenna and commented on how privileged they were to see such a sight. How many adults, never mind children of their age, would experience such an adventure up and into a live volcano. Further more which children would experience what they have been through in the past 3 years. Sailing the seas, visiting countries and islands not seen by many, trekked in the mountains of Thailand, walked in the jungles of Borneo and seen Orangutans in the wild, snorkeled amongst the best coral gardens in the Andaman Islands and lived in paradise on the deserted islands of Chagos, and so the discussion went on. With lunch coming up, we left Mt Ijen and drove down towards the town of Ketapang. On the way down, we stopped at a coffee plantation and picked coffee beans and hugged a coffee tree!
Then it was off to lunch at a local Warung where we all tucked into Soto ayam, a chicken soup dish with shredded cabbage and boiled eggs! An hour later we were on the ferry and on our way back to Bali. Again the exchange of money took place no fewer than 4 times before we reached Bali. Nono very kindly took us to a residential house where we bought 3 huge pumpkins at a very reasonable price. I'm sure it was a friend of Nono and we appreciated the assistance as the whole family loves B's pumpkin soup! That afternoon we said our thanks and goodbyes to Nono. He had taken us on an adventure of a lifetime, something so unique and different in this wonderful world of ours! With that we hopped back into our car and headed off down the SW coast of Bali. As it was late in the afternoon, we decided to find a place to stay on the coast, not wanting to drive through the night on these extremely busy roads, roads that were in appalling condition and extremely dangerous with all the heavy trucks streaming in from Java. We came to the small village of Medewi where we discovered a surfing competition was happening. After a few attempts at finding a place, we were directed to a home stay, some 5 km's out of town, and surrounded by paddy fields. Now 8pm at night, we checked in and then set off in search of food. As I waited to join the main road, we witnessed a motor bike accident happen in front of our eyes! With the roads under constant construction and warnings of their "work in progress" very difficult to spot, some poor guy had driven into an area of the road that had been dug up for repairs. With the bike coming to a sudden stop, he flew through the air and landed in the bush on the side of the road! With pedestrians running from all directions, we pulled away leaving the unfortunate guy in the care of bystanders. That evening we ate at a very nice restaurant and then fell into bed, tired after a long day of walking and driving!
View from our room at Medewi
Next day, after a small breakfast, we were able to appreciate just where we were. Stretched out in front of the home stay were fields of rice. Beyond that was the ocean with some spectacular surf breaks and beaches. We all decided on a walk through the paddy fields and down to the beach. It was really interesting to walk amongst the rice fields and appreciate the labour that went into preparing the fields and growing the rice. After 3 hours of walking about and playing with the local kids, we returned to the home stay, paid the bill and set off back to Shayile.
B & Jenna with Balinese kids
Final days in Bali
With Bali having been well explored and circumnavigated by land and sea, it was now time to prepare for the next leg of our trip. Within the next 2 months we would be entering Australia and, with their strict controls on what it brought into the country, we decided to ship as much of our belongings home to South Africa as possible. We had accumulated many souvenirs and other artifacts along the way. We now needed them off Shayile and sent home. I did some enquiring into costs and soon we had a crate ready for shipment back to S.A. We filled it with all sorts, not required for the trip to Australia. Shayile must have breathed a sigh of relief as more than half a ton of "stuff" was shipped off back to South Africa!
Jenna with local kids at Serangan
Toby and Vicky were also about to leave Bali as well and we decided to set off together sailing up to Lombok. Toby organised a meal on the shore with Wayan, Monday and those that had assisted us whilst in Serangan. A few fish were cooked, along with rice and plenty off beer. I gave the guys a bottle of rum which they consumed that night! It was no restaurant, sitting under a pondok and chatting together but the evening went off well, until we got the bill. Over R500 for 4 adults and 2 kids. Clearly we had been providing all and sundry with food, beer and entertainment! Although I have no problem with providing for the guys, they pulled the proverbial ring and we all left that night with a bad taste in our mouths. Not the way we wanted it to end but, again, a reflection of "fleece them whilst you can" attitude. I made it clear to Monday the next day that that was unacceptable. When I told him what the night had cost us, he was shocked, but with Wayan the boss, he had little else to say. That concluded all dealings with Wayan and his services in Serangan!
With plans to depart from Bali in progress, we went out and stocked up on food and other essentials. We also hired a car for 2 days and drove out to Kuta, the tourist capital of Bali! Central Kuta was where the bomb went off a few years ago, killing scores of people, mostly Australian tourists. We visited the site of the bomb blast and found it extremely difficult to comprehend why anyone would do such a thing in such a "neutral" area full with tourists. Its a whole understanding on its own! In Kuta we did some last minute shopping, mostly clothes for ourselves and a McDonalds ice cream!
Lembongan
Back in Serangan, I did one last diesel run, filling up the Shayile's tanks and jerry cans. With no "outside assistance", this time I got the diesel at the pump advertised price, not with 500 rupee added on for "government tax" which went to the pump attendant and Monday!! With Shayile ready for departure I had one last issue to tackle. The dreaded engines!! Ever since Lovina, the starboard engine was showing signs of not being too happy. It had overheated off Lovina and there were now bubbles in the heat exchanger. Although I suspected a blown head gasket, she was still running surprisingly well and I hoped that it was perhaps something else. I dropped a note to Gary on Yacht Aquarius, asking him for his advice and possible solutions. At the time, Gary was in Australia and, on getting further advice from a marine engineer mate of his, he wrote back to me. The news was not good and he stated that it was a blown head gasket and that it needed attention before leaving Bali. He went on to say that, although running surprisingly well at the moment, it was sure to go bad, and Bali may be the last viable option to get the task done. Taking his advice, I decided to put a new head gasket on. We left the anchorage at Serangan and motored down to the harbour of Benoa where the Bali Marina was situated. I organised a mechanic to come visit Shayile and confirm the diagnosis. We motored into Bali Marina and, frankly, were appalled at what we saw. It was no marina, but a broken, badly maintained concrete walk on that supported about 30 vessels. Then the cost of 22USD a day, no water, no electricity! It was filthy dirty and, going on our previous experiences of marinas, this was not for us! The mechanic confirmed the problem, and I told him to meet us back at Serangan where we would fix the engine. He agreed and with that, having spent one night at the marina, we motored back to Serangan. Within 2 days, the engine was fixed and we were ready to leave Bali.
Jenna with a ritual dancer
Departure from Bali
As the current down the Lombok straits are fierce, we decided to head up the coast to Labuan Amuk where we would spend the night. Then we would crawl our way north and across to Lombok. On the 7th May 2008, we finally upped anchor and motored out of Serangan and up towards Amuk. Then the winds kicked in and the currents played havoc as we crawled our way north. At about 2pm, with the wind howling, creating a lee shore in Amuk and currents against us, we decided to turn and head for Lembongan, our old surf spot. To fight our way up the coast, and into an anchorage over rock and a lee shore, was not a sensible thing to do. We arrived in the anchorage at Lembongan, picked up a mooring buoy and settled in for a few days.
Arriving in Lembongan
We spent the next 3 days relaxing and surfing all we could whilst a huge ground swell made the Lombok straits look rather ugly! I have never seen currents and tides react in such a way, with standing waves 3 miles out in the straits and not the place you want to spend time in! After an enjoyable 3 days, we decided it was time to move on out and make our way up to Lombok. The day before we left, we woke up to the sight of a pinisi fishing boat high on the reef at Shipwrecks surf break! It seemed he was doing his best to avoid the currents and something went wrong, putting him on the reef. Throughout the day we watched him as he made an effort to get off with the high tide, smoke billowing, as he thrust his engine in reverse and tried to dislodge the vessel. Another fishing vessel joined in and they did their best to pull the boat off the reef, however it was stuck fast and did not budge. Next morning, with the pinisi still high on the reef, we decided to head on out of Lembongan. With the sun rising, we motored out of the bay towards the straits. In the distance we could see the current as it flowed past the point. It looked like a river in full flow and I made my way towards it, hugging the coast and passing close to the stranded pinisi. Then as we crept out into the current, Shayile's bows were violently pushed out and we were in the current. The speed bled off very quickly as B sat at the computer monitoring our speed and direction, and I steered Shayile. Within a minute I called down to B saying that we were going backwards and B confirmed it!! Sure enough, we were driving forward at 8 knots but going backwards at 2 knots. It was rather scary as Shayile was dictated to by the current. I swung her around, now going with the current and we took off! Then slowly we angled Shayile back in towards Lembongan. By this time we had virtually passed the bay but slowly we made ground back in towards our anchorage. Out the current, B and I looked at each other and agreed; lets try another day. The current was just too strong! We hooked up to our old mooring buoy and thought about our next "escape" plan. Nothing beats local knowledge and I decided to dingy across to a local charter catamaran anchored close by. On board I met Roberto, the owner and skipper. We caught up on sailing stories and the like and then discussed the currents. Now, in my time at Bali and other current effected areas in the region, I must have asked no fewer than 10 people on how best to tackle the currents, and I must have received 6 different answers! In this area, the tides and currents do not coincide. Moon phases dictate the direction and state of the currents. Another very interesting discovery from Roberto, was that the Pacific Ocean to the north, is 15 cm higher than the Indian Ocean to the south, as earlier mentioned. However with moon phases and tide intervention, the currents can moderate or intensify. It's catching the right time that is crucial. Further to this there is a small counter current running up the Bali coast, making a northerly path a little easier. We gathered what info we could and decided to leave much later, hopefully making the journey a bit easier.
B’s Best Beer Brew!!
Next day we were up and away at about 10pm, not 6pm like the previous day. This time the poor pinisi was being pulled off the reef by a tug! Although we experienced the strong currents for the first hour or so, our speed and direction improved and soon the current was down to 1.5 knots against us. With time now against us, we could not make to Lombok, and headed towards Bali and Labuan Amuk where we would spend the night. True to form, the wind intensified and sailing into the huge bay, we again realised we had problems. We were on a frightening lee shore! Just next to Amuk is a ferry terminal situated in a very small bay. I decided there must be protection in there and we headed across to Teluk Padang. As we entered, it seemed ok, but was very small! With no obvious anchorage, I approached the beach whilst B tried to shout across to the ferry dock workers where best to anchor. Just then the depth gauge went from 14 meters to 9 meters to 5 meters to 1.1 meter, all in about 8 seconds! I swung Shayile about expecting us to run aground, but she made it! Must have been all the "stuff" we shipped home that enabled her to avoid running aground! The dock workers shouted back that this was no good and that we needed to go back to Labuan Amuk! Out we motored and back to Amuk, this time seeking a new anchorage in the western part of the bay. Fortunately we found a vacant buoy and grabbed it. With the wind pumping in, I set an anchor alarm and we settled in for a rather rough night!
Finally we leave Bali
We just could not shake Bali! But with a good start up the coast, we motored out of Amuk and hugged the coast as we headed north. As we put the sails up and motor sailed, we soon come into contact with a flotilla of small sailing boats. They are actually fishing boats, all with wonderfully coloured sails and we all heading in the same direction. There must have been 200 - 300 of these small sailing vessels with, usually, one occupant! It was a spectacular sight as we made our way through the flotilla. At the NE tip of Bali, we turned and headed across towards Lombok. The wind increased, the motor was turned off and Shayile was up on her toes across the straits towards Lombok. It was a great days sailing and we loved it! Back at sea, sailing away, with Australia firmly set in our minds!
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