Wednesday 1 February 2006

Tanzania to Kenya, and on to the Seychelles

TANZANIA TO KENYA, AND ON TO THE SEYCHELLES



6th – 11th March 2006
We motored out of Dar Yacht Club and into the open ocean. The plan was to head in a north easterly direction, then alter course slightly to east and on to the Seychelles. Well, this was the plan, but, with sailing, one is never sure.


Sailing out of Dar Yacht Club


Up went the sails and off we went, very happy that we were finally moving again.

Not 25 miles out the bilge pumps started to go again. (Bilge pumps are small water pumps situated in lowest points on a yacht which pump out any water that may gather at these low points) Both port and starboard bilge pumps were running. This meant that water was getting in from somewhere and the likely place was the engine rooms. Sure enough, on checking I discovered there was a trickle of water coming from both water pumps. A slow trickle might be ok and I left it. All we had to do was ensure there was enough water to keep the engines cool and that the leaks did not get worse. However I was not happy with the situation.

The first night out was not pleasant with squally weather and very unsettled sea. This lead to “hull slapping” on Shayile and not a comfortable trip. I just could not get to sleep and was constantly thinking about the rudders, the engines and other boat related concerns. The “hull slapping” only aggravated my efforts to try sleep. (Nothing new I reminded myself. When I was in business it was exactly the same and I then I battled with a busy mind!) Having not sailed for so long we needed to rebuild our confidence in Shayile and in ourselves. This was “sea trial” time and a lot needed to be tested. Embarking on a 1000nm trip is not the best was to conduct sea trails but we really had no choice. So, under the circumstances, sleep did not come easily to me and it sucked!

Next day the water problem got worse. The bilge pumps were running more often and I needed to get in there and try checking it out. Sure enough, on removing both pumps I discovered water was pouring out of the pumps, more than likely at the seals. I removed one of the seals and tried to fix it best I could. On replacing it and starting the engines, it was just as bad. We were now some 200nm off Tanzania with faulty water pumps. This in turn would lead to insufficient cooling of the engines and could then lead to more engine damage.
Now what? I had to make a decision. We needed the power and we needed the engines. There was no way I could risk another 8 days at sea with the possibility of not having any engine power.
I made a call to turn around and head for Kenya. B backed me up but she was bitterly disappointed. We had planned to meet her parents and do some cruising together in the Seychelles. This may be over. With more tears and frustrations we turned and headed in a north westerly direction; our aim Mtwapa Creek, just north of Mombasa. We were 240 miles out and we now had to turn around! I was furious as I had paid over 480 dollars on the pumps alone, only to have them fail hopelessly.

Over the next 2 days we slowly made our way back. Daniel and Jenna kept themselves entertained with school work, colouring in and DVD’s. They play well together and often entertain themselves in their cabin with their bionicles, dolls and Lego.


                                              
Daniel & Jens doing a show for us whilst on passage


One delightful little experience was an unexpected guest that popped in. Visitors at sea are few but one evening we got a welcomed passenger in the form of a bird! As B experienced the best of this passenger, I left it up to B to describe its memorable visit. My interaction with the bird was great. I woke up early after being on watch. As I was lying there, this bird flew into my cabin and then landed on my hand and sat there for a good 3 minutes. It was not at all scared and from my hand he flew off up into the saloon. Really another special moment, remembering this was a wild bird hooking a ride, or a rest, across the ocean.       


 B and her morning cup of coffee!
B: I was sitting watching the sun come up when I saw a brown ‘moth’ flying towards me. To my great delight, a little fluffy brown bird landed on my knee! I froze but couldn’t stop smiling as the bird seemed totally unafraid of me. After a brief pause it flew through the door and began a thorough tour of Shayile. First it sat on the microwave in the galley, hopped along the counter and then flew determinedly down to the children’s cabin. There it landed on Daniels naked butt and promptly ‘pooped’. After a good look at the books and toys it flew into the back cabin where Rob and Jenna were sleeping and landed on Rob’s hand waking him up. What a treat! It stayed with us for about and hour, sat on all our outstretched hands, perched on the vege basket and ate some small bugs or spiders. Once it flew out the back but returned minutes later. After a short nap on the microwave it flew away leaving us sad but feeling so blessed. I looked it up in a bird book and think it was a starling, we just called it ‘Fluffy Bum’.

We also got a welcome meal later that day. I caught a 14kg Tuna and B prepared some excellent sesame coated seared Tuna. An excellent meal and the best eating fish around!



I could live on B’s tuna; breakfast, lunch and supper!

As we came in closer to the Kenyan coastline, we picked up good wind and the sea remained quite flat. Shayile responded and soon we were doing a steady 8 – 10 knots! It was exhilarating sailing and we loved it! The rudders had certainly been put through their paces and were doing great!

At about 5pm, we entered the channel leading into Mtwapa creek. A tricky little entrance but once inside, what a beautiful place! It’s quite a large river and hardly a creek, but really scenic and green. A few houses lined each side of the river, along with a few bars, restaurants and deep sea fishing outfits.
We soon saw Peter and Dale on Belagear up ahead and we dropped anchor next to them. Peter was going to put Belagear on the hard and check out a few issues he had with the propeller.
Once the anchor was down Pete and Dale came across for coffee and we gave them the update on why we were there!

That evening we went ashore for a drink and for me to try get some info on whom or where I could get my water pumps sorted out. It just so happened that a fishing competition was about to start the next day and there were a number of people at the bar at Kenya Marineworld. I managed to make progress and was introduced to Gary and Fransie who managed the place. Gary and Fransie had also been cruising and “got stuck” in Mtwapa. They have been there some 15 years now. Gary teed me up with the people I needed to see. With the next day being Sunday, and a fishing competition, not much was going to happen. I needed to wait for Monday.

Sunday was spent cleaning Shayile and attending to other chores. That evening we all went ashore and attended the fishing competition prize giving. A great evening was had with the winning catch coming from none other than a yacht! They landed, tagged and released a 70 kg Black Marlin. (Or should that have been called a “Sail” fish!!)
We ate dinner there that night and then headed on back to Shayile.

Next morning I was up early, removing water pumps and taking them to the workshop. We disassembled them and discovered the problem. Not only were the seals the wrong size, they were the wrong type! There was no way that they were going to do any sealing. Completely wrong!!!


Dan & Jenna checking out a local Boa!


I went through to Mombasa and tried to find the required seals. Going into Mombasa I caught a “Matatu”. (Hi-Ace type taxi vans) Boy, what an experience and how I got to Mombasa in one piece, I have no idea! It makes the SA taxi drivers seem like law abiding citizens! At a robot, a scuffle broke out between our driver and another. Spanners were out and much abusing and trying to hammer each other with spanners!!

On getting to Mombasa, I immediately set about finding the shops I had been recommended. No luck with the seals. This went on for hours and eventually an Indian trader assisted me and said he could have them brought down from Nairobi next day. I had no option but to return next day for the seals. I placed the order and left. Mombasa is a dirty big city. Certainly buzzing with activity and life, but not at all clean. I walked around town, bought a few DVD’s and even had lunch at a tired old Wimpy! Then it was time to check my insurance premiums and policies were all up to date as I needed to catch a taxi back to Mtwapa Creek. A life threatening ride!


Mtwapa Creek – Kenya

Next day, we all decided to visit Mombasa. The whole family, and Dale, hopped into a regular “car” taxi and we headed into Mombasa. Fortunately my seals were waiting for me and, without hesitation; we paid and headed out back towards Mtwapa. On the way back we stopped at a great shopping centre to stock up on provisions. (again!) We must have spent a good 3 hours there shopping, looking, and enjoying the shopping mall experience. A cup of coffee later and we headed back to the Creek.

Everything was loaded onto Shayile and I immediately headed off to the workshop to get cracking on the water pumps. We completed one, but as the day ran out, I would have to return the next day to fix the other one.
Whilst B and the kids, (Ok, B) prepared Shayile for departure, I got busy on the pumps and within an hour, the mechanics from Kenya Marineland had fixed it. I now had two reconditioned water pumps to go with my reconditioned engines. Back to Shayile and I installed them. After a quick test run of about ½ hour, they seemed fine. No leaks and the water was pumping great. With that, we filled up with water, said our goodbyes and headed off down the Mtwapa Creek and out to sea.

It was an overcast rainy midday as we left. I was certainly feeling a lot more confident with the engines. They sounded great and no leaks!
Within 2 hours we were back out and into the open ocean, on our way to the Seychelles. Albeit again!

Leaving from Kenya has its advantages. The distance is slightly less but, more importantly, one can pick up the easterly flowing current a lot easier, or so we thought!!


Leaving Kenya, on route to the Seychelles


15th – 25th MARCH 2006

Crossing : Mtwapa Creek, Kenya to Seychelles

It’s always difficult to try fathom out where the current is, which way it is going or where will the wind come from. My plan was to head in an ENE direction and try pick up the strong east going current.

Day 1 saw great winds and we made some 150 miles in one day. Great going! However it was not to stay. Slowly the wind died down and what was left swung around to the NE and hit us on the nose. Current was against us and, what little wind there was, was on the nose. We turned on an engine and motor sailed into it.

Without getting technical about the conditions, my log book showed 6 days of wind from 0 to 5 knots, and current against us between ½ and 1 knot all the time. The motors were hardly turned off and, besides the occasional break to listen to Peri Peri (Fred) for weather and test what wind we had, they ran continuously. As Belinda aptly describes it, “we drove to the Seychelles!”

So what does one do 24 hours a day for 9 days on a yacht at sea?

Well, our days went as follows: At night, I usually went on watch first. Once supper was over, kids put to bed and B and I had relaxed together, B would head off to bed. I would be on watch from about 8pm through to 12.30 / 1am. B would then take over and do the rest of the morning watch through to 6 or 7am. I would then take over again, listen to Fred at 7am and push through to about 9am. We then spent the rest of the morning and lunch together. In the afternoon we would both have small sleeps before washing and dinner commenced. That was the shifts.


B on watch!!


In the mornings once Daniel and Jenna had surfaced, we would have breakfast and then into schooling. This went on for a few hours, before boredom with school set in. Then they played together and generally kept themselves occupied until lunch. After lunch, the DVD’s came on. Usually 1 or 2 depending on the parents mood! Late afternoon we played around on deck trying to spend some energy. Daniel had become a chess addict and wanted me to play with him all the time. It was great that he enjoyed the game, but it became quite tiring, game after game! Problem 2 is that he was getting bloody good at it!

Then it was dinner. Must say B’s an excellent cook and always put a great spread together at all meals. Fish was most often cooked, (if we’d caught any) as we all thrived on it. Our fishing policy – we put out 2 lures every day. If we caught, and had sufficient fish, no more fishing.

Let me stray for a moment. I did not believe in fishing off Shayile during a crossing, just for fishing sake. We fished to catch food to eat. This was not sport fishing, but food fishing. With the kind of lures we used and the fight that ensued, most fish were in danger of dying, once hooked. As I hated to see a fish caught, and wasted, once we have sufficient fish, we halt fishing for a while. Fishing policy on Shayile : we fish, to catch, to eat.

However once at our destination, the sport fishing gear came out. Mine is fly-fishing and here I used barb less hooks and, believe you me, the fish had an excellent chance of getting the better of me!

Wahoo caught just outside the Seychelles

Back to the crossing. During our night watches, we put on the radar and set perimeter alarms. Should a ship or squall enter our radius of some 12 miles, the alarm was activated. On this crossing we encountered many ships and one night had to dodge 4 ships. I hated it and must admit encountering a ship at night did stress me quite a bit! Which way to turn, how fast is it going? Fortunately our radar was excellent and it provided us with a lot of info on the ship, its position, speed and direction of travel.

We certainly did not stand and peel the horizon hour after hour. Without being careless about keeping a lookout and monitoring progress, we did read books, update journals and even watch DVD’s. Every 10 minutes we would go outside and check wind, sails and have a good look about. Again, our electronic equipment on board was excellent and they provide us with a lot of info. Every minute or so I would cast my eyes over the chart plotter and radar data displayed, ensuring all was in order.

During the days at sea, I must admit, I got quite lazy. Without making excuses, one does get very lethargic at sea and getting anything done, does require effort. However, I did clean parts of Shayile everyday, slowly getting through the chores. There was also cleaning out of lockers, drying equipment out, fixing a few things, (no engines this time!) and generally ensuring all is healthy on board.

So, this was pretty much our on board entertainment and activities whilst crossing. Not very exciting and, if the truth be told, I cannot say I really enjoy it. Too long and I get bored!


Sunrise over very flat seas – On route to the Seychelles


7 days into the trip and we had sailed for 1 ½ days in total! The rest was motoring and motor sailing. Poor Bill and Sally were in the Seychelles and waiting for us. I did my best to email them each day giving them a position and ETA, but unfortunately due to no wind, the ETA was continuously getting pushed out. With so much motoring, I was afraid that we may not have enough diesel to get us to Mahe’. It was touch and go.




500 miles off Africa and just look at those smooth seas behind our beautiful daughter!


On we sailed, well motored. Fortunately as we closed in on the Seychelles, we picked up wind and for the first time in almost 7 days, we were able to hoist the sails and actually sail! Although it did not last that long, we enjoyed the experience. At night it died off again and on went the motors. 

We bypassed the Aldabra Islands some 60 miles to the south of our position. Coming in from Tanzania or the Seychelles, these are the first of the Seychelles Islands one encounters.
Aldabra is home to thousands of tortoises.

As we closed in on the island of Mahe, the first sign of “land” was the sea weed and increase in sea birds. Next up was a sudden reduction in depth. Surrounding Mahe, and about 80 miles out, is this huge shelf. On the outer fringes of the shelf there are a number of shoals. They are not deep and one is able to navigate over them and onto the shelf. The shelf is some 15 to 60 meters deep and the depth remains through to Mahe.
As night fell we motored on towards Mahe. First up were the fishing boats; lots of them and we had to carefully navigate our way around them.
B went on watch at about midnight and safely steered us towards the island of Silhouette. This is a large island off the WNW side of Mahe.

At about 5am, B woke me up and I then plotted a course in towards the port of Victoria. It was great to sea the sun rising and the first sight of land in some 9 days!