Northern Mozambique into Tanzania
7th – 22nd October 2005 – Northern Mozambique
Closing in on the island of Ibo, and with everyone asleep, I navigated our way up the channel between Ibo and another island in the Quirimbus Archipelago. Our intention was to spend the day on Ibo. Firstly I had to negotiate a tricky channel that lead up to the town on Ibo. The problem was the depth of the channel we were about to enter! We managed to ease our way across with about a meter under the hulls and anchored up just off the old town.
Karisma, who were behind us, caught the tides wrong and had to wait for more water.
Once ashore, we spent a number of hours walking around the town and checking out the sights. Impressive was the old fort, built in 1791 by the Portuguese. It still had a number of its cannons on the ramparts. After a beer and a few cool drinks, we headed back to Shayile and Karisma, upped anchor and headed north to the island of Matemo.
Portuguese fort on Ibo
Matemo has an up market hotel and dive resort which is part of the Rani Group. Knowing that yachties are not always welcome at these types of resorts, I thought it best to first call them up on the radio and get permission to anchor outside the lodge. (It had a well protected bay; an ideal anchorage.)
We tried a number of times to get through on the radio but to no avail. Just as we were sailing on past the resort, we finally made contact with the lodges fishing boat. After introducing ourselves and our intentions, I asked if it was possible to anchor in the bay. With a very welcoming tone, we were invited to anchor off the lodge and have a few sundowners at the bar. I thanked the skipper for his hospitality, turned around and we motored back into the bay. After dropping anchor, the kids and I went ashore and introduced ourselves to staff on the beach.
That evening, dressed in our best, we went ashore for some drinks. We met the staff and enjoyed a social chat with a few of them and guests at the lodge. Later that evening the general manager arrived, pulled aside the young assistant manager and told him we were not welcome and had to go. Rather embarrassed, after having invited us warmly into the hotel, he now had to tell us to leave!! No real reason was given, but I feel they were not keen to have outsiders, especially yachties at the resort.
No skin of our backs, but we felt it was handled rather badly by the G.M who was rather a spineless chap. We finished our drinks, paid the bill and left with the staff trying their best to apologise for the situation. Back to Shayile for a great dinner - on the hard! Yes, it was springs and the tide was way out. Shayile was sitting on the bottom. We knew this would happen and it really was not a problem for a cat. Later that night Sue and B went for a “walk” across to Karisma!
Next morning we upped anchor and headed up the coast. Again, the sailing was great and we stopped off briefly at Ilha Macaloe to have lunch.
B and her King Mackerel
Sue & Rob - Sailing past Ilha Macaloe
From there we sailed on up to Ilha Medjumbi. We planned on approaching the anchorage from the north, but Grant radioed and said they were going to go between Medjumbi and a small island called Quissango. (The 2 islands are joined by a sand bar which dries out at low tide.) I followed him in, against my better judgment. Simon approached and radioed to inform us that all was ok. I then turned and, following Karisma, approached the channel. In we crept with the depth at 3 – 5 meters. All ok so far. As the deep channel approached, there was one last sand bar to cross. As we motored up to it, I suddenly saw the depth gauge showing less and less water beneath our keel! Then all of a sudden we were stuck, rocking on this sand bar. I shouted to B, “we’re stuck, we’re stuck!” and immediately put full throttle ahead. At the same time I called Karisma frantically telling them we were stuck and that we needed assistance to be pulled off! It was springs and the tide was dropping. To be stuck on a bar, rocking, could prove disastrous. They never answered and I went back to the controls. More power! B shouted, “We’re moving!” and slowly with the waves and swells assisting, we edged off the sand bar and back in to deep water. What relief!! I could just picture us stuck there as the tide dropped and Shayile taking a hammering from the current and waves. It would not have been pretty.
Lesson learned – go with your initial plan and better judgment. Do not be led into a position you are not comfortable with. If it does not feel right, it properly isn’t!
We sailed on up to the anchorage. Karisma had gone in close to shore but I was not keen to bottom out on the sand as there was still a swell running. I chose to go further out and anchored about a mile off the island.
Again, there was a Rani Group Lodge on the island, so Simon went ashore to check it out. Again he had a great reception but, as the company directors were calling in the next day, they told Simon he would have to wait until they all left before coming ashore. (Was this not the reason for the reception by the GM at Matemo and, if so, why did he not politely tell us so?)
Simon thanked him and left and with that Karisma came out and anchored next to us. As the anchorage was very exposed, we decided to sail north early next morning, leaving as early as possible as it was quite a long day sail ahead.
Sunset over Matemo
Approaching Matemo
At 4am I was up and by 4.15am, both Shayile and Karisma were heading northwards up the coast. By 7am we were in deep water a few miles off the islands and sand banks.
The wind steadily increased and as the day wore on, so did the wind. This was great sailing and the most wind we had had since leaving Mozambique
Soon it was at 20kts and we were doing 8 – 9kts! Really exhilarating sailing and I helmed (steered) most of the way! Poor Karisma fell way behind us. Unfortunately they are not as fast as us through the water and always fell behind as the wind increased.
Soon we were entering the channel into the island of Ilha Tambuzi
With the wind still blowing we anchored off the island. We spend a day and night on Tambuzi, collecting shells and generally relaxing. I did a bit of fly fishing and on one occasion, I caught a nice sized Garfish. After a great fight, and managing to get the hook out, I released it back into the water. Whilst sorting myself out for the next cast, there was a huge swish in the water. No doubt something huge saw the Garfish was a bit tired and went in for the kill. It must have been something sizable as the Garfish was 60cm long!
Belinda and I took a walk along the island and came across a lodge that was being built. Soon we were being called across by the workers and decided to go have a look. There we met a South African guy from Nelspruit who was the project manager. He was very Afrikaans and could not speak much English, but we did get to discover that a Spanish guy was building the lodge. It really looked good, but what a remote spot and certainly facing the wrong direction! Anyway, once the lodge is completed and a runway put in, I’m sure it will be a great spot to go relax.
From Tambuzi, we sailed further up the coast to Ilha Vumba. Our initial intention was to go to another island, but with great sailing and having checked out the write up on Ilha Vumba, we decided to head in that direction.
Again we dropped anchor on the west side of the island, just off the coral reef. The island looked good and we went ashore to meet the locals. Simon spoke Portuguese very well and engaged in conversation with the local fishermen. He also presented them with a big Kingfish he had caught as a gift from us.
Another sunset!!
We did a bit of exploring on the island and for two nights in a row, had a great beach braai. It was great fun and the kids loved the fire on the beach and the chatting that went on. Dan was in his element, explaining all the movies he had seen to us and impressing all with his fantastic memory.
We did a bit of diving off the reef. Not much left, but the coral and small marine life was excellent. We enquired about crayfish and soon we had a local escort taking us out to the crayfish grounds. Well, we found ourselves in the middle of the channel, about 3 km’s out and nothing was found! Not even the reef and it was seriously deep! So much for local knowledge!
We enjoyed Vumba a lot but soon it was time to move on again.
Our next stop would be in Tanzania
B: My impressions of Northern Mozambique weren’t that great. It was barren and windswept with far too many people stripping a meager living off reefs that will never survive the onslaught. The fisherman living on the islands, live in harsh conditions with water brought in and they have so little to show for it. The tiny reef fish hardly seem worth gutting and drying. The islands had only small sandy beaches, usually with a large settlement on it and we had to anchor so far away that there was no protection from the wind and you still could still drop 3m with the tide and hit a large coral bombe hidden in the murky water. I was pleased to be moving further north. I had by now surrendered all galley duties to Sue. It was a bit like living with my mother again, not trusted to get it right!
Beach braai - Vumba
23rd – 27th October 2005
From Vumba we sailed up the coast. We were finally getting into the East Africa Coast current and felt its effect with 2 knots of current in our favour! Although we were only plodding along at 2kts through the water, we were doing some 4 – 5kts over ground! A pleasant sail indeed!
Our next anticipated stop was Msimbati Bay in Tanzania which was about 15 miles north the border.
We made our way into the channel and motored up to a sheltered spot to anchor.
As with the case in parts of Madagascar and now again in Southern Tanzania, the GPS reflected a variance against that on the charts. If we had gone by the chart plotter on entering Msimbati, we would have been on the rocks! This bides well with the statement; do not enter an unknown area, using your chart plotter alone!!
Out of interest, old Vasco de Gama called in at Msimbati on his world tour.
There was a Gas Exploration camp here run by a group of South African guys. Sue had been here before and had met the team.
We dropped anchor and made our way to the beach where we had spotted a guy snorkeling. Shane, originally from the Bluff in Durban, was the Head Chef at the camp. He told us to anchor a bit closer to the camp and then invited us in for sundowners.
Well, this was the start of a fantastic 6 days at Msimbati Camp!
To say we were welcomed into their camp with open arms would be doing their generosity no justice. These guys were fantastic and we thoroughly enjoyed every minute of our stay.
The camp was managed by a guy called Joao who lived in Kransview Road, Kloof! Virtually a neighbour! That evening we had drinks on the deck of their camp and then dinner in the canteen.
Joao filled us in as to what was happening with the gas exploration.
B & Rob relaxing at Msimbati Bay
AG & P Gas, a joint venture between Artumas and Tanzania Petroleum Development Corporation (TPDC) was drilling for natural gas in the Msimbati Bay. Initial finds were very encouraging and they planned to go ahead with further drilling.
Joao and his team were the logistics, providing all the services in order for the gas teams to carry out their work. The camp accommodated some 250 workers and provided everything from medical assistance to all meals, accommodation, communications etc. etc. The camp was fantastic and everyone was well catered for.
Dinner with Joao and the Team
B & Grant at bunny chow supper
Over the next 5 days, we spent a lot of time with Joao and his team. One of the highlights for Belinda was the laundry which had machines and dryers! Soon B was busy with washing virtually everything on board Shayile!
They also had internet facilities so we caught up on emails and home page issues.
For Daniel and Jenna, it was all about the TV and Satellite! Given the chance, they would have watched TV all day, every day!
Shane cooked up some great meals, with bunny chows being a hit one night for the Durbanites!
Msimbati - about to head back to Shayile
One night we had the whole team on Shayile for dinner. Shane provided the chicken and braai-ed it! After a great night of chatting and drinking good old Madagascan rum, we finally got to bed well after 1am!
We did a bit of snorkeling off the village and beach and, although it had great coral and related marine life, the rest of the bay did not offer a whole lot.
5 days of luxury, or close enough for us and, unfortunately, it was soon time to move on! Our sincere thanks to Joao, Shane, Johnny, Ron, Wilbert and Armani for making our stay in
Msimbati Gas Exploration Camp
28th - 31st October 2005
After leaving Msimbati, we headed up the coast, with Kilwa as our next big destination. However there were a few stops to be had before then.
Soon the wind picked up quite nicely and just got stronger as the day progressed. I hand steered most of the day and as we turned into Mtwara Bay Mozambique
We headed across towards a smaller bay Mkindani. Here we anchored and settled into the evening after a rather hectic days sail!Next morning Belinda and Sue went into Mtwara to buy a few fruits and veggies. The kids and I did a bit of exploring of the village. First up was the reputed house where David Livingstone stayed before his last venture inland to
From there we went up to the German Fort, which is now a hotel. We met the GM and he was kind enough to show us around the hotel and took us up to the tower where we had fantastic views of the whole of Mkindani. After more town walking we went across to the restaurant Ten Degrees South.
Local village – Mkindani Bay
B: In Mkindani, Sue and I assumed the position on the side of the road awaiting a Dulla Dulla or communal taxi. While we waited we waved to an English chap, Martin, who runs the diving operation at Mkindani and we chatted for some time. A taxi arrived and stopped with plenty of amused expressions; ours and theirs. Two men climbed out and motioned us to enter. Only the step area of the taxi was not covered with humans! There were four men sitting / standing on each others laps in the gap between the seats. Where we were supposed to stand I don’t know and the 2 men were definitely going to get back in!
We reneged. After another wait, Martin answered our prayers and told us he was going into town and we could catch a ride with him. Thank you God for your intervention!
I would no more get into an un-roadworthy microbus driven by a drunk man with a monkey wrench for a steering wheel, down Fields hill in rush hour than get into that bus. I paid R60 for a taxi back rather than risk the chance of a visit to the emergency room or not!
Changing money at the bank was a breeze and we shopped at the little Dukha’s lining the streets and found the eggs and vegetables that we needed. A beggar approached me in the veggie stall and was chased away by the tiny little lady who owned it. First she brought out a large bow and hit the floor near him and when he still wouldn’t move on she fetched the arrow. He finally saw the light and departed but it was all quite light hearted and amusing.
An elderly gent on a bicycle pulled up on the pavement near us and asked if everything was ok and did we require any assistance. We enquired if he perhaps knew how much a taxi would be. He replied “That would be beyond my knowledge” he then left to find us a taxi driven by “a good man”, he found me a little later again to see if everything was satisfactory. Amazing, a perfect stranger so willing to help for no reward. In SA, we have a lot of work to do. The people in this country are warm, welcoming, respectful and so polite with perfect English spoken everywhere.
Soon B and Sue were back and we had lunch at 10 Degrees South. Prawns, steak, calamari; an enjoyable treat! We met a couple from the Netherlands
They really enjoyed taking a look into our adventure and we enjoyed having them on board Shayile.
Dan & Jenna at David Livingstone’s house in Mkindani
B: Ellis worked in Dar one week a month and commutes. They are reluctant to resettle because of the malaria threat to their 3 year old daughter. They are both sailors and have a boat near their home on a lake. I really feel that they were inspired to make cruising a definite goal in their lives. It was super to see people respond so warmly, they had spent the whole afternoon talking about it and had planned, as mathematicians, to teach their kid’s math’s with the different currencies.
The next morning we all took a walk around the town again and then back to Shayile. It was time to head up the coast for our first real river anchorage.
The Sudi River
B: Dan, Jens and I walked along the sand spit and saw all sorts of strangely shaped bones that I didn’t recognize. Finally I realized that they were turtle remains, just before we came across the rotting shell. So sad to see. The kids put the sharp bones to good use and we bound them to sticks to make spears.
What I saw the next morning made me feel sick.
One night at the Sudi River and we were off again, on our trek north. As we exited through the Sudi mouth, we passed a small fishing village. On the beach was a group of locals. There in front of them were 4 turtles on their backs, 3 large and one small. Some were still alive and flapping furiously, the others were being slaughtered and dismembered. Not a pleasant sight but, again, food for the people. I will never be able to get used to or accept the fishing and marine harvesting that goes on. But then again, I’m not trying to feed a family on the Tanzanian Coast!
We had a full day sail before entering another huge bay called Kiswere Harbour
There was quite a big swell running as we entered Kiswere but soon we had our pick set firmly in the mud. Again this was just a night stop over and early next morning, we were off again, this time heading for Kilwa.
Grant on Karisma has a friend in Kilwa who part owned a lodge called Kilwa Ruins Lodge. Karisma, in the meantime, had sailed on to Dar es Salaam, and Grant had flown back to SA to get his back treated, and take care of a few matters. Fortunately Grant had told James from the lodge about us and they were expecting our arrival.
The sail from Kiswere to Kilwa was not pleasant. The wind was virtually on the nose and the sea was very lumpy. Daniel got sea sick and for all of us, it was not enjoyable.
It was great to see Kilwa come into view and soon I had the leading marks lined up and we motored into the bay. I called James on the VHF and he guided us in to where Kilwa Ruins Lodge was situated.
We dropped anchor and soon we were in the duck and heading for the lodge.
31st OCTOBER – 6th NOVEMBER 2005
The next 6 days were spent anchored off Kilwa Lodge and enjoying the magnificent hospitality of James and Kerry. Having 2 children of their own was a blessing and Daniel and Jenna were in heaven! We hardly saw them as they went off and played all sorts of games around the lodge. The pool was the center of attraction and they skipped between the sea, the lodge, and the pool. After a full day of activity playing together, they were shattered each night! But they never admitted defeat and fought on late into the night.
There were even sleep over’s at both the lodge and on board Shayile.
One day we took a guide and headed off to the ruins on Kilwa Kisiwani. They really are amazing and reminded me of Greece or Turkey
Kilwa Ruins – Gereza Fort
The Gereza fort or prison was built by Omani Arabs in the 19th century. Behind it lie a whole lot of ruins, dominated by the 12th century Great Mosque. Amongst the ruins were the Great House and Makutini Palace
Further up the island were the ruins of Husuni Kubwa. They are situated way up on a steep cliff and overlook the Kilwa Bay. It really is impressive and one can see exactly what went on with the swimming pool, wells, court yard and even the Sultans personal quarters.
It was an extremely hot day when we went to the ruins and we were glad to get back to the lodge for a swim and cool drink.
We had a pleasant surprise when Yacht Sometime arrived at Kilwa. Gill and the kids had flown back to SA, and Ryan and 2 friends were now sailing her back down the coast to South Africa. We all had dinner at the lodge and caught up on the past month or so. Ryan and Gill had spent a year cruising and they were now heading for home.
All good things must come to an end and for them it was time to get back to what most people call a “normal” lifestyle!
For any South African, Kilwa Ruins Lodge is a fantastic place. The fishing is amongst the best in the world and James certainly knows his fishing. Each day the boats returned with great catches. Many of the bigger fish were released, amongst these King Fish and Sail Fish.
This lodge comes as highly recommended as a place to relax and go fishing. 
Tyra, Jenna, Kent and Dan at the bar
B: What a treat for us all! The children have had the best time swimming in the deep blue pool and getting swamped in the shore-break. Kent has taken Dan on some great rides on the back of his kayak and taught him all about fishing, although I doubt Dan will ever be as passionate as Kent.
Tyra and Jenna spent long hours picking flowers to decorate Barbie’s homestead, walking the little Jack Russell’s, Scooby and Muffin and generally playing with their brothers and each other. We had lovely meals at the lodge and made ourselves far too much at home. The kids insisted on sleep-overs at each others homes and played themselves to exhaustion everyday.
I had a lovely time chatting to Kerry, a slim, fun, smiley person. We shared stories of motherhood and she showed me her home school package and the classroom where her children do their lessons. It was great to sit drinking coffee and chatting while the kids breezed past on some mission or other.
We are all sad to leave but we have a way to go before Zanzibar and apparently there are many children to play with in Dar.
Thanks so much Kerry and James for your hospitality, warm welcome and tolerance of our children in your lodge.
Kilwa Camp. It’s a bar with a huge Baobab in the center
On the day following the first sighting of the new moon, ie the end of Ramadan, the local people poured onto the beach, all dressed in their New Years best. The girls were so pretty in their shiny dresses and the boys and men all in button down shirts and long pants. Shorts are not a happening thing here. The ladies are all well covered, no shoulders or knees visible.
Everyone milled up and down the beach seeing and being seen then as night fell everyone moved off to town to eat and celebrate. No beer bottle etc and so peaceful and calm, what a change from Durban beachfront!
6th – 8th NOVEMBER 2005
After having spent 6 days at Kilwa, it was time to move on. We went ashore in the morning to say our goodbyes and pick up a few provisions. Kerry was a star and their chef had gone to the market for us and bought all kinds of fresh produce. We also got given prawns and a few herbs.
Once the kids had finished playing and saying goodbye, we headed back to Shayile.
Yacht Sometime had already left on their way back down the Mozambique coast.
I must say again how much we enjoyed our stay at Kilwa. James,
By 12pm, we were motoring out of Kilwa into the channel and confronting some huge swells!
Up went the sails and around the headland heading north up the coast. We were going to try get to Songa Songa, an island with another gas works.Nearing Fanjove Island, we realized it would be dark by the time we got to Songa Songa and so decided to head for an anchorage off Fanjove.
As we closed in on Fanjove and approached a coral reef, one reel went. The wind was blowing 15 – 20kts and Shayile were flying! At first I thought it was the reef that we had hooked and decided to turn Shayile around. B grabbed the rod as I turned Shayile into the wind. We were right over the reef and I was not happy with our position, at one time telling B just to snap the line! However we got things under control and finally drifted off the reef.
B then confirmed it was indeed a fish and she fought it to the boat, where I took over and she gaffed it. A beautiful 8kg Yellow Spotted Kingfish! More fish at last!
We got Shayile back on course and headed for
This was really one of those “rest stops” almost like a Road Lodge in Standerton. Dropped anchor, dinner, slept the night, and off next morning! This we did and by 8am next morning, we were on our way up the coast heading to Mafia Island.
The coast line here is great for sailing. The wind remains relatively constant and when it blows, it seems to stick to 12 - 20kts and just remain there. No gusting or changing of direction, just a great wind to sail in. Further to this sail boats can either sail out at sea where there is great current going north and good wind, or one can sail amongst the islands which means flat seas, protection and generally calmer conditions.
So we really enjoyed the sailing amongst the islands from Kilwa to Mafia.
As we neared Mafia, we had to make a decision. It was getting too late to enter Chole as the entrance and channels are extremely tricky and must only be attempted at high tide and day light. We decided to head off for a sand bank called Menege. Andrew and Sue Walker had spent time here and so we decided to give it a go.
We dropped anchor off Menege and immediately went to the sand bar to check it out. The kids ran up and down collecting shells and other creatures on the beach.
I did a bit of fly fishing playing catch with a huge garfish. He went for the lure a number of times but, fortunately, did not get hooked. These guys have huge teeth and usually pliers are needed to get the hook off.
After playing around on the sand bank and watching the sun go down, we headed back to Shayile for dinner and bed.
Next day, we headed on to Mafia. We sailed all the way, benefiting from a great easterly wind. I caught a beautiful Cuta on the way and fish was on the cards for dinner.
As we approached Mafia, the dreaded entrance t the bay lay ahead. Imagine this vast open stretch of water in a bay. Within this bay is a small channel, maybe 50 -80 meters wide. It is not that visible and it meanders its way through coral, rock and sand banks. Vessels have to visually make their way through the channel, usually with one person up the mask shouting directions to the helmsman. Fortunately we had our GPS to assist us and further to this, we had all of Andrew Walkers waypoints already plugged into the chart plotter. (Andrew was the previous owner of Shayile and had visited the bay)
For us it was a case of following the waypoints in, ensuring they were correct and watching out depth carefully. As it was approaching evening, the reefs were not at all visible.
We put Shayile on auto pilot and I sat in front of my computer with Maxsea on, and the chart plotter on, and in we went. I shouted to Belinda on the helm, “Port 10 degrees” and she changed course. Then it was “Starboard 30 degrees” and so it went on. At times we got to 1.9m depth and B did have a concerned voice as she asked me for further directions. Sue, in the meantime was up front, ensuring we were sticking to the channel. Well, we did some great team navigation as we edged our way closer to Chole. Soon we were through the maze of coral and approaching the lodges in
We dropped anchor outside Mafia Island Reserve Lodge. Sue cooked up a spread of fresh Cuta and bringer and after a great meal; we relaxed and went to bed.
Daniel washing up???
As Chole Bay, and quite a bit of the surrounding area, is a marine reserve, visitors have to pay $10 per person per day and $10 per boat per week. We decided that 2 nights and a full day would be ok.
Next day the kids and I went ashore and checked out the lodge. We also gave a local, Paulo, about R50 to buy us some fruit and juice, which he said he could do.
We then went off diving at a nearby reef having a great time exploring the coral reefs. We were all in the water swimming around checking out the marine life. It is really special, enjoyable, and interesting when you dive a great reef. I got some great pictures and even saw a fish that we had never seen before. It looked like a Stonefish cross Wobblegong!!
After diving the kids and I went on the duck to check out a Dhow building operation. We had to paddle some 300 meters in as the tide was low and we could not motor across the bank. On arriving at the beach, we walked around checking out the various sized dhows in some state of production. This was a real basic boat building place with no saws, lathes and other carpentry equipment. An axe, logs and huge metal nails was basically all that is used to construct Dhows. It was fascinating to see these vessels taking shape and just how they are constructed.
Production and productivity isn’t exactly steaming along and most of the labour was under a tree relaxing! Cannot fault it!
After leaving the boat yard, we all went ashore to Chole Lodge. This lodge is owned by a South African guy and his Kenyan wife. It is absolutely stunning. The rooms are tree houses built in the Baobab trees and have fantastic outlooks. The bar area and lounge is all “home made” down to the chairs, cushions, décor and couches. Really a great place and B and I would have loved to stay there a night or 2!
After a few sundowners we headed back to Shayile. That night the Reserve Rangers came by on their motor launch. They were going out onto the bay as some divers had reported seeing fishing nets in the reserve. The Rangers confiscate the nets and the local fishermen are fined. We had a long chat discussing the conservation in the area and about our travels. We paid our fees for being in the reserve and, as he did not have his receipt book with him, told us he would come by in the morning and drop it off.
Well, this he did and at 5.30am, we had the Rangers back on board. Again we had long chats and swapped email addresses. They also showed us the nets they had found that night. After a few pictures, they were on their way and we were on our way.
We exited Chole Bay via the Eastern entrance, different to the route we came in. The exit was a whole lot easier than the entrance and soon we were out at sea and heading north again. Unfortunately the wind did not last that long and soon we were motor sailing again.
B & Sue – Rum Punch Sundowner
We had planned an overnight sail through to Dar es Salaam and, as it was only about 100miles, we could not rush the journey. Any faster and we would be arriving at the Dar harbour entrance for the first time, at night. Arriving at an unfamiliar harbour or anchorage in the dark is something I tried to avoid. Besides, Dar was sure to be a busy port and avoiding tankers, cargo ships and fishing boats at night time can be quite stressful. As evening approached, the first fishing boats appeared. We picked them up on radar and realized they were right on our anticipated course. We altered course to starboard and slowly made our way around them. There was a bit of radio communication between us, but mostly due to the fishing vessel confusing me with a large coastal cargo vessel that came very close to them! These fishing vessels have large nets extending way out, something one does not want to tangle with. I give them at least a 2 mile berth.
On we plodded through the night. I stayed awake until 12.30am, and then got up at 3am for my watch. We slowly edged our way towards Dar and headed directly for the yacht club.
The Dar Yacht Club was just a bit further north from Dar harbour and, as we rounded the headland towards the club, Simon on Karisma gave us a call. He was expecting us and soon we were along side getting directions on where to anchor. As soon as the anchor was down, Simon came across and joined us for a breakfast of muffins and coffee. He then gave us a rundown on the club and the activities. Simon was waiting for Grant to return from SA and was having an absolute ball in Dar, socializing and interacting with the expats and consulate staff that frequent the yacht club. I could see the glint in Simon’s eye and soon he was telling me that he could live in Dar quite easily!
