Enjoying the gap in the bad weather
4th – 6th JULYLater that morning, we cleared customs, sorted and cleaned out the boat and restored some order back to Shayile.
Completed with Maputo and the clearing process into Mozambique, we set sail for Inhaca Island as we were not keen to hang around Maputo. We needed to get out of the dirty marina and see the island. After a long, tough sail up from Durban and we also needed prawns and sunshine!
As the tides were not too kind to us, we were all up at 4am and off to Inhaca.
We arrived at the island at about 9am and anchored off the main beach. We were all really keen to start experiencing the island lifestyle and immediately planned a trip ashore. The good times were not with us just yet and the sunshine short lived. Within half an hour it began to rain. Back to the rubber duck and back to Shayile. The rest of the day was spent cooped up inside with miserable weather outside. We wondered if we were ever going to experience that beach and sunshine weather so often associated with those sailing magazines!
Later that night we again went ashore and visited an old restaurant favorite of Belinda and mine – Lucas Restaurant! We had previously visited Inhaca Island with our goo friends from Durban, Calman & Sharon Pretorious.
Out came the prawns and red wine and a festive evening was had by all. I was really trying my best to get us all in the cruising mood. I wanted my family to be happy and start enjoying the lifestyle I had bought in to.
B and I at Lucas's restaurant - Inhaca Island
This night was a break from the bad weather we had experienced to date and later that night we stumbled back to the rubber duck and headed back to Shayile.
I began to wonder - had our holiday finally started?
B : You know that 3 loads of washing? It still wasn’t dry and remained that way for the next 5 days of rain. Grossly damp and some even moldy. We definitely miss Colleen Moloi our trusty washing and cleaning fairy with her Aunty Beauty’s ironing just a distant memory.
7th – 8th July – Another storm hits us!
Next day it continued to rain and later that night, after getting a weather update, we made a decision to leave next morning for Inhambane, some 160 miles up the coast. We needed to get to warmer, more tropical weather and with a pending weather window with predicted SE winds 10 – 15 kts, we weighed anchor at 6am and headed north.
Storm approaching!
The sea in Maputo Bay can be horrible, and we were in it again! Tide against current, lumpy and not in the best of moods. The cat slapping started again as we fought our way out the bay. The rain came down and sailing was a mission. We wondered about that weather prediction: 10 – 15kts SE.
Within 4 hours, we were beating into a firm NE and life was uncomfortable. If this continued, we would be in for a long leg of beating! Finally, we made the decision to turn around and head back to Inhaca to await favourable winds, coming out of the SE. It just did not seem to be our day to sail.
On the way back we passed Jackaroo who were now heading north. On a keel boat pointing into the wind, it is a lot more comfortable than on a cat and progress is that much easier. They informed us that they would continue on their way. Quite despondent, we headed back towards Inhaca to seek shelter.
However the wind was not yet finished with its plans and very quickly it shifted to the south west. Now what?
Team talk, more weather updates, and finally we decided to turn again and go with the weather. We came through the wind and steered a course back up the coast!
Jackaroo motoring into big swell north of Maputo
B : I admit the turn around was my entire fault. I lost my cool because both children were vomiting and we were being thrown around mercilessly. It’s always much worse down below and the “vrot” weather meant we couldn’t all sit under blankets in the cockpit. The wind shift made all the difference but the trip was a drawn out nightmare.
Now finally back on track, the winds turned out to be great and continued throughout the rest of the day. The only complaint from all on board was the upset sea. Why was this the case or was this the norm? Were we just not used to such sailing conditions? Not a pleasant sail and we all wondered when we would be able to put up the spinnaker, sit up front and take in some sun.
The winds held steady throughout the day veering to the south east at a steady 20 – 25 knots and, as we went into the night, it started again! The wind steadily increased. I had phoned and got through to the Durban met office and informed them of my position. They gave me a weather update of 15 – 20kt SE, increasing to 25 kts next day. Although we were starting to doubt the weather reports, it looked ok for some good sailing up to Inhambane.
Throughout the night we were in constant 20 – 30kt winds with rain squalls and lousy, upset sea. By this I mean wind over waves with current effect. The current was setting down the coast (from the north), the swell of the waves coming out of the east and the wind SW going SE. Not a very comfortable ride.
Next day was pretty much the same with little let up on the ocean and the wind coming out of the SE.
Jenna asleep in the cockpit – Mozambique coastline
Our next storm!
Then night arrived! We went into the evening with a 25 – 30kt SE. As the night progressed, the wind picked up and so did the surf. By this time we had passed Jackaroo and Lin said she would tuck in behind us and use our navigation lights as a reference point to assist her with her path up the coast.
It must be pointed out that I was dead beat by this stage. I found I battled to sleep at the best of times when sailing and now with conditions as they were, I was not sleeping at all! With the constant rolling and hull slapping, it made sleeping even more difficult. By 1am, Cyril and I were having turns at the helm again.
Steadily the wind increased to 30kts, then 35 and up to 40kts. Worse still the surf continued to build and we now had rolling waves behind us. We could hear them coming and occasionally could see the white crumbling wave as it approached us from behind. Shayile was being tossed about, but, with her calm nature, did all she could to hold her course.
By 3am I was hand steering and doing everything to hold our course.
Throughout the night we went through a number of storm squalls. Although testing, we managed to hold our course. At mid night, I had a new concern as a huge Charlie Bravo (thunderstorm) sitting out to sea on out starboard side was threatening to engulf us! All around us the menacing thunder and lightening continued, and seemed to be heading closer and closer. It was at this stage that I began wondering what the hell I was doing here? Why had I dragged my family into this? Would we get through it? Is this fun?
Cyril and I were getting drenched by the occasional wave as it rolled onto our beam and into the cockpit. I fought on trying to keep Shayile happy by not going too fast, yet not going too slow either. We had both engines on and a small amount of roller furling out in order to keep the bow as straight as possible. On it went, and the wind gusted to over 45 knots. No it was not fun and I longed for morning, to at least be able to see.
We got clubbed all night and that thunderstorm threatened us all night with its occasional slap to let us know it was still around.
Arrival in Inhambane
As morning approached we rounded the lighthouse at the entrance to Inhambane. All I wanted was to anchor in the lee of the bluff and get a little reprieve from the wind and waves. However we made a decision to hang in there and try get into Inhambane. It meant sailing for another hour down to the channel marker buoy and then following the channel in. Inhambane harbour, without going into too much detail, it not an easy entrance. You need to catch the tides just right and stay within the channel to avoid the sand banks where breaking waves would cause havoc to a sailing boat.
As we approached the marker, I realized we could never get in. The swells behind us were a good 4 - 5 meters! Huge rollers up ahead hid all signs of the channel entrance. The closer we got the worse it appeared and I decided to abort the entrance attempt.
We turned around and headed back for the protection of the bay below the lighthouse with Barra Lodge just a short distance off. We had to motor back, beating into a 30kt wind and big seas. By this time Jackaroo had also turned around, heading for the relative shelter at Barra Lodge. We eventually found ourselves a spot and dropped 2 anchors for added grip and protection against Shayile dragging.
By this stage Cyril had had enough. He came along as assistance and to have a holiday. Since leaving Durban, we encountered shocking weather. There was nothing enjoyable about the trip and, frankly, we had 2 nasty experiences with the weather. He informed me that he was going to head on home.
I felt miserable! Was this the beginning of the end of our trip, my dream? After the kind of weather we had just experienced, there was no way that Belinda was not going to cross the channel to Madagascar without crew. We also now had no crew for the short trip to Basaruto. Worse still, I was not having a good time either! Off to sleep we all went, feeling rather miserable.
B : I know Rob’s described the storm but rather imagine this. You are driving your expensive 4x4 on a very rough dirt track; it’s wide but extremely bumpy with a huge ravine on the left. At 5pm your sight starts to fade, you are going blind but you cannot stop or the huge ravine will suck you in and crush you and your precious family. You have supplies but you are all to nauseated to eat them. So in your blinded state, steer by compass and hope that all oncoming taxi’s and bloody great tankers are a) awake, b) lit and c) care enough to miss you.
This continues for three days and nights. You may take turns at the wheel but there is NO getting off or changing your mind. The anxiety induced acid indigestion almost finished me, also the nail-breaking, mattress clutching 4m freefalls while sleeping, was pretty intense. I surrendered to it only once at anchor and, after making bread and finally drying the washing, I celebrated with a sleep, a vomit and another sleep. The two guys were unbelievable in what they endured. I will always be grateful to Cyril for his commitment to helping Rob get us all to safety.
9th – 10th JULY
We made contact with Rocky, a local skipper at Barra Lodge and asked him if he, or someone with local knowledge, could assist us with a safe anchorage. (We badly needed to get off the ocean!) He kindly offered us his assistance and told us to be ready tomorrow morning at 6.30am.
At 8am, we finally made contact and Cyril went ashore by rubber duck to pick up Rocky. Rocky knew the channels extremely well and he told us that he would take us to the anchorage situated just behind Barra Lodge. We gladly accepted.
Off we went with Rocky aboard Jackaroo. I was under the impression we would go up the Inhambane channel. However soon we were heading off in a direction that appeared to be going into breaking waves! It was unbelievable as he guided us through a channel with waves big enough to surf, breaking either side of us. We then turned and ran parallel with the breaking waves, finally heading into calmer waters and a channel just behind Barra Lodge.
Peace at last! Calm waters! We dropped anchor and took stock of the situation.
We had been through a big sea ordeal and grateful that we were here. Cyril had had enough and was planning to catch the next available flight home. I tried to persuade him to at least sail with us up to Bassaruto, but unfortunately his mind was made up.
Daniel & Jenna had been little stars throughout our sail up the coast. They now needed beach time so I dropped the duck and we headed for the beach. It was stunning and we spent a few hours just relaxing and digging up live pansy shells!
Daniel and B doing a bit of fishing off Shayile
The rest of the day was spent, sleeping and tidying up. We were so happy to be in sunshine and at anchor in calm waters! Willie and Lyn joined us for a fish meal to celebrate not having to confront more stormy nights at sea…. For the time being anyway!
I just needed to take stock on what had happened, regroup and plan the next leg!
Early next morning we all bid farewell to Cyril. Cyril had experienced a tough, not so pleasant journey so far, had organized a flight home and was on his way back to South Africa.
The family was now on its own. From here on, we would need to do the sailing, however the crossing to Madagascar was still not an option for Belinda. The last 10 days of hectic sailing conditions were fresh on our memories and I did not blame B one bit. I got hold of Meme Grant, my sailing instructor from Durban, and asked her to please assist with a crew member to join us for the crossing to Majunga, Madagascar. Immediately she got to work.
It was now time to start getting into the “holiday mood”. The weather was great and the family needed more beach time! We all headed off to the beach and had another relaxing day swimming and lapping up sunshine!
12th JULY
For Jackaroo and Shayile it was time to move! We weighed anchor and heading out through the same channel we had come in. After 3 days, the sea had calmed down considerably and, although tight, we got out into open sea and made our way down to the main Inhambane channel. Conditions had vastly improved and we picked a bearing and headed for buoy 2. On arriving at its indicated position on the charts, we discovered it was not there! Nothing unfamiliar in this area and we altered course for buoy 3 and made our way up the channel to Linga Linga, a small community positioned on the channel heading towards Inhambane.
Lyn radioed Linga Linga and requested a position of anchorage. This was pointed out to us. Although we knew about it anyway it is always great to get local knowledge!
We anchored about 100 meters passed an old wreck of the village of Linga Linga and immediately the kids wanted to go ashore.
The morning was spent on the beach. Here we met one of the owners of a nearby beach house. On meeting him, he looked rather bleak, almost in a hangover from hell posture. Later we were told that the poor guy had malaria!
That afternoon, Daniel and I went exploring and came across “Coconut village” which looked like an old camp site. What a setting and I could just picture those glory days in the 60’s and 70’s as families all camped out under the coconut trees and played on the beach. Now it was a tatty run down squatter type set up.
From the camp site we made or way down on to the beach and helped some local fishermen pull in their nets full of fish. A great experience, and something completely foreign to young Daniel. After a tiring day out, it was back to Shayile.
That evening the whole family watched Shrek on our computer. A special moment and one I will remember. This really was the first time that I was finally spending quality time with my family! My memory of the weather we had been through was slowly leaving!
Each night, when bed time arrived, I would have to go through a “before bed ritual”. Let’s not forget that every night at anchor involved waking up about 4-5 times to check the anchor, as dragging could occur. I had to set the GPS, make note of the co-ordinates, and then wake up every hour or so to check them. Another reason why I seemed to wake up tired most mornings!! (As time on the ocean, and at anchor increased, so our anchoring techniques were perfected and this continual waking was reduced to 2 – 4 times a night.)
Linga Linga - So young, so fragile to be at sea?!!
13th JULY
“I think I am beginning to get into this holiday / sailing / beach mood”, was my thoughts after 3 days of relax at anchor!
A first for me was collecting coconuts. Returning to Shayile, I would get to work with a panga and opened them up. Lunch was coconut and some bread bought from the locals became a routing.
In the afternoon we would have a few beers with Willie & Lyn, and then return to the beach. Buy small Portuguese sardine type fish from the fishermen, clean them, onto the pan and a great meal enjoyed by all.
Yip, getting into the mood! The memories of that first dreadful week at sea were slowly taking a back seat!
B : The kapenta (think bait sardines little sisters) are more fun to catch than to eat. Done in garlic and green pepper in the pan they are fairly tasty but are 5 parts bone to one part flesh. Luckily I had grated 2 coconuts with their milk to make sweet sushi rice pudding. Thanks to my brother Mark for the recipe! Delicious, and a massive hit with the kids. Dan has always been the hungry wonder kid who would eat anything but now we had discovered that he has a distinct aversion to seafood! Even fresh calamari couldn’t tempt him. This was probably because we played with the intact squid before they were cleaned, but it is also because it is thick and chunky, no dainty little rings here. Luckily the Portuguese rolls and loaves met with all of our approval and I planned lunch for the following day would be delicious prawn cocktail baps.
The beaches here were so long and appear quite sterile but we had such great surprises, like my accidental discovery of the pansy shells about 5cm under the sand. The kids dug up about 20 in 5 mins. These are covered in tiny hairs and only get so fragile when dead. E also found huge fat sea slugs and cucumbers like I’ve never seen and many different kinds of starfish. We also dug out a large hairy brown crab like a big tennis ball with bright pink claws. We ignored a piece of coconut husk until Dan trod on it and the funniest sea “noo-noo” ever started wiggling all its furry bits, I think it was a type of lice; tennis ball size, but at this time we had no reference book for ocean oddities.
It was also great not to be yelling at the kids to get their shoes on for school or fighting traffic! Here we were really spending quality time together as a family. The two littlies seem more grown up already with Dan starting and driving the rubber duck with our supervision and Jenna the best assistant I could ever want. They were both utterly addicted to having their Dad around and furious if he left the boat without them.
“We all seem to have adjusted well to life on board but it’s the in-between actual sailing bits that still worry me”.
We were told that apparently the locals had not had 10 days of windy rainy weather for ever so maybe we just had bad luck.
“Here’s hoping it’s mostly good from here on out.”
Dan and Rob out for a paddle, with Jackaroo in the background
B : We write about Linn and Willie Putter of Jackaroo and we are indeed joined by lack of experience, going in the same direction, at the same time and they are good company. Linn is a dynamic Aussie who has lived in SA for 30 years. She and Willie have traveled their whole lives and have been to 106 countries, usually very intensively. Willie is a lovely quiet, calm man in his 60’s who can and does fix anything, motors being his special passion. He and Lin lived in Graaf Reniet for years where they ran many successful businesses before retiring to Knysna 8 years ago. Willie flies planes and paragliders, wind and motor and is a shy eccentric. He has built many vintage vehicles, including a Harley with side car, which he scavenges from farm rubbish dumps, probably while Lin is drinking tea and finding out all the local news. So they make good travel companions and we’ve spent quiet a lot of time together.
15th – 16th JULY 2005
It was time to move on. Along with Jackaroo, we set off for Inhambane, some 7nm up the channel. We motor sailed most of the way and then dropped anchor off the pier at Inhambane. From a distance Inhambane, looked like a real Portuguese town with a beach road meandering along the coast.
On going ashore and taking a closer look at life, we soon realized we were still in Africa. The clock tower had a clock face on each side – each had a different time! (Different time zones perhaps??)
We went to the local port authorities to clear in. Unfortunately not much was happening that day as apparently the president was coming to town to watch a junior soccer derby. A few documents were completed but we were informed that customs and immigration would visit our boat the following day to complete proceedings. When Lin enquired on why they were going to visit our boat, she was told that they had to do a safety inspection!! Now let me get this right. Do these safety inspections happen on the many fishing dhows and ferries? Then why do they employ a youngster as a bailer to keep the bilge water levels to a minimum. Radios and lifejackets on board these local vessels??! Yea right!)
Next morning out they came. The necessary documentation was done, 340 000meticais (R100) changed hands, legally, and the paper work done.
It was then into town for diesel and fresh produce. Willie took care of the diesel whilst the Shayile Team went to the market. They were rather shoddy, but we managed to get a few provisions.
As we walked up the main road, Daniel asked if he could get an ice cream. Both B and I replied telling Dan that we were not sure if they sold ice creams in this town. With that he calmly replied “Are there kids in this town?” To which we answered, yes. Then, came the reply from Daniel, “There are defiantly ice creams here! We found the ice-cream shop and made the purchases. It was a well deserved treat for the kids and we lapped them up sitting on a bench in main street watching life go by.
B : Shopping at a market is pretty daunting at first, the money is always confusing and of course everything is by the kg, no cling wrap anywhere. The market sellers are all pleasant and friendly and honest. The bread is delicious, unwrapped and open to the elements but none of us have had the runs. Most of the veggies and eggs are from SA and we got the best ruby grapefruit ever from Maputo – export grade. Cabbages, carrots, potatoes, onions, green beans are the staples so we have eaten a lot of coleslaw. There is little choice and sadly no butternut (Kerry, stay at home!) Luckily winter citrus lasts well but the cute little Lady’s Finger banana’s all got ripe together and fell off the stalk. Banana fritters got vetoed but banana bread in the bread machine was a hit.
The bread machine is worth its weight in gold as 1 short hour after loading it with the necessary ingredients, we are back from snorkeling to tuck into fresh bread. That’s a blessing and a curse because the “Oh My God We Are Going to Die’ Diet was very successful. The stress and constant movement, trying to keep everyone happy resulted in a quick drop of a dress size, only 2 sizes to go before I’m ready to face the world in a bikini.
One good thing is that you are constantly adjusting for the wave action and my tummy muscles have tightened up considerably, still scary though. Admittedly I’m far more active than usual, leaping off the ducky to pull it up onto the beach, hand washing and picking up after everyone, washing up, winching up sails and stowing the duck each evening. Imagine that each evening when you return home you have to winch your car up onto the roof of the garage and then for good measure toss a motorbike (fishing ski) up on top of it, repeat in reverse each morning. Also each night is interrupted by getting up regularly to check on noises and see if your house has washed away somewhere it shouldn’t, tides turning you around on the anchor so you have to get your bearings each time. The days seem to pass very fast but I don’t miss the morning school rush or any of the other lifestyle trappings; ok so maybe the washing machine!
On the way up from Linga, Willie informed me that my port engine was “steaming” a bit. On closer inspection, he said we should consider checking the impellors on the water pumps. Now, as mentioned, my knowledge of diesel engines was “restricted”. I knew where the door to the engine room was; the rest was with Willie’s help. We got busy and changed the impellor. Just as well as the impellor only had 2 blades left and should have 6. Thank goodness for Willie!
After asking Meme Grant for assistance with crew for the crossing, she put a chap by the name of Paul in touch with me. We discussed the possibility of him assisting us with the crossing and he accepted. We now had someone to assist us in getting Shayile to Majunga in Madagascar. (Earlier at Linga Linga, we had even contemplated the possibility of B and the kids flying across to Majunga from Vilanculos, with Paul assisting me in getting Shayile across the channel. Thank goodness we dropped that thought rather quickly. B would never leave Shayile!
Paul’s fee was 1 dollar a mile, air tickets and provisions. This I agreed to and Paul began preparations to join us.
Whilst at Inhambane, we decided to visit the town of Maxixe. (Pronounced Mashish) What a dump of a town it was! For South African standards, it made Lusikisiki look modern and clean. After a short walk around, we went to a restaurant for lunch. (I was hoping this was the one Derek Salzman, a friend back home, had recommended.)
We visited the rather dusty, dirty market which sold the best bread yet and I managed to buy a large packet of suckers and sweets. Each sweet had a tattoo in the wrapper, all different, so for the next few days we all looked like rock stars and the kids were entertained for ages, swopping and adorning themselves with ink.
After a couple of 2M beers and a tasty meal at the local restaurant, we headed back to Shayile and returned to Inhambane.
B: The restaurant was busy and fairly up market but when Jenna needed a wee we were in for a shock. No toilet in the hotel. We were directed to the petrol station, recently revamped, but the toilet was a shocker! Yellow and brown were the predominant colours and that was the sanitary ware, not even what delights it held. A huge rusty drum of water and a jug were the method of flushing. Was I glad I didn’t need to go ‘cos Jens would have battled to hold me up above the seat!
Locals on a fishing Dowl of Inhambane
After a few days in Inhambane, we raised anchor and headed back down to Linga Linga. Our trip back to Linga was eventful. Firstly up went the spinnaker. Then it came down and we motor sailed with the Genoa. Then the ratchet on the fishing rod started to scream. I grabbed the road whilst B controlled the boat. What a fight! I got the fish closer to the boat and what a beauty it was. It was the biggest King Mackerel I had seen. But it was not to be. The reel holder on the rod had come loose from the rod and had turned around, wrapping the line around the rod shaft. I was confused by the twist and tried to undo it. As the fish came closer to the boat, it decided on one last dash for freedom. As it took off, the drag was too much with the line wrapped around the rod. The lure pulled out! Wow, what a fish! Belinda was kind of pleased, as it was too big for us to eat and, besides, it was a beauty!
On we went and off went the ratchet again. Daniel dashed for the rod, lifted it up and was almost pulled off the boat as the fish took off. Fortunately Belinda was close by and held on to him. I took over and in came a Springer which we released.
20 minutes later, we had another screaming ratchet. This time I grabbed the rod and held on! I have never had a fish take off and run as this one did. I shouted to B to stop the boat as line was running out. With the Genoa still up, she needed help. I put the rod back in the holder and assisted B in getting Shayile under control. Unfortunately we must have given some slack line and when I returned to the rod, the fish was gone. All in a days fishing and we learned a few lessons on how to tackle a fish when under sail.
At Linga, we dropped anchor and planned our next move. We tuned into Peri-Peri for the weather and was told, SE 10-15kts for the following day, changing to N to NE 5-10kts later that day. Just the window we needed. Not much wind, but I was happy! The plan was to head up to Bassaruto next morning.
In the meantime Paul and his girlfriend, Tam, had booked a flight into Vilanculos on the 29th July. We would meet up with them and then wait for a weather window to take us across the Mozambique Channel to Madagascar.
I was now keen to do the crossing as it would be valuable experience.
18th July – Sailing to Bassaruto
Next morning we were up, and at 9.30am we headed out to sea. By 11am we were over the sand bar and on a northerly course for Bassaruto, some 130nm up the coast.
We had a fresh SE 10 – 15 kts and up went the bag. This was the first voyage where Belinda and I were sailing alone and we were off to a great start! At 4.30pm, the wind picked up and, with memories of blown bag’s still too fresh in our minds, we decided to get it down.
That evening, sailing under Genoa, the moon came out and we had a romantic sail up the coast. I must say I was apprehensive about a weather change and could not fully relax. Perhaps, the calm before the storm?
When the wind died completely, on went the motors and we motor sailed the rest of the way.
Daniel asleep at the rod!
19th July – Arrival in Basaruto
Bassaruto was in sight and our first leg alone as a couple was under the belt! It was also the only leg so far where we had great conditions. Were we getting into that ever elusive paradise we were looking for? Or were the elements giving us a short weather reprieve before she got ready for round number 3!
However I had another small task on my hand. With the port engine impellor replaced, I was convinced the starboard engine impellor needed replacing. (Early that morning I had turned off the starboard engine suspecting that it was heating up)
I got busy and tucked my head into the engine room. An hour and a half later I had replaced the impellor. I was as proud as Punch knowing I had tackled the task alone! Amazing how a “victory” of this nature makes one excited and builds confidence! Better still I had done it out at sea as Shayile wallowed in the swell!
After entering the channel between Bassaruto and Benguella islands, with Jackaroo close behind, we headed in towards an anchorage and dropped anchor next to the yacht Tayla. Roy, the skipper, came across by duck and after introducing ourselves, had a quick chat on cruising the local area.
It was a stunning day! I turned to B and excitingly said, “I think we have finally discovered the paradise we were looking for!”
A quick boat organize, out with the dive gear, and we were off. The family climbed into the duck and we headed off for the nearest reef. We all had our fins and masks on and over the side we went. Daniel and Jenna had their body boards attached to their arms to assist them with floatation and something to cling on to. Together we floated over the reef, admiring the many colourful fish and underwater creatures. Unfortunately the coral was quite destroyed. Apparently, so we were told, this was the cause of the El Nino effect some years earlier. We could see where new coral was sprouting though the older corral. Once the kids got cold, we headed back to Shayile for lunch.
Yes, we had arrived!!
Basaruto Island
Next day Belinda and the kids went ashore. I got busy hanging out the washing, sorting out the forward hatches and generally doing a tidy up. Tidying is a constant task on board yachts. There is always something to tidy and attend to!
The rest of the day was spent on board Shayile and that evening Willie and Lyn joined us for a pasta evening, complete with red wine, a beastly easterly, and a rocking boat! Yes, the wind was back! We were not in a fantastic anchorage and the next night was the just the same. Rocking and a rollin’ all night!
We spent 2 days at Benguella, checking out the lodge and walking on the beach.
22nd July – 25th July 2005
With the tide pushing, we weighed anchor and set off for the island of Margaruque. Again we edged our way through the channels and down to the island. On arriving and with Shayile in front, I tried to find the channel. I was very conscious that Jackaroo had almost 2 meters of draft. Eventually Willie saw deeper water, took the lead and directed us up to an anchorage which was very close to the shore. Before dropping anchor, I went ashore by duck and asked, who appeared to be a person in charge, where we could anchor. He informed me that we were in the right spot. Satisfied I returned to Shayile and we anchored.
A very tricky entrance indeed, anchored close to the shore, and a huge reef nearby!
What a beautiful place! That afternoon we went for our second dive of the trip. A coral reef extended from the “resort” to the entrance of the channel. There was an extremely strong current running and the dive was just a “tester”.
The whole family were kitted up and over the side we went. I tied the ducky to myself and we all floated down, allowing the current to take us the length of the reef. What a fantastic dive spot and ideal for kids and beginners.
Again, Daniel and Jenna had their body boards with them. By lying over the boards, they were able to put their heads in the water, check out the reef, whilst floating down with the current. A great way to introduce kids to diving and get their water confidence levels up. We saw all kinds of tropical fish and it really was like swimming in an aquarium!
“War paint” anchored off Margaruque
B: We read in the local dive guide that two large bass live on this reef and Rob and Dan had seen a medium sized one on the first dive, while I saw a real live, utterly deadly Stonefish! They really are well camouflaged but we had scoured all the books for dangerous sea creatures and shown the kids everything that’s toxic so I recognized it instantly. It re-enforced why we always wear shoes on the beach and have to be constantly be aware. The kids knew what they may, and may not, touch.
We then dived the long wall and I was thrilled that Dan and Jenna really enjoyed floating along looking at the fish and coral but climbed into the ducky Rob towed along behind him when they got too cold.
So I was drifting alone when I saw the brindle bass. Imagine wandering in a garden, looking at the flowers and then noticing, crouched in the bushes is the largest Rotweiler you have ever seen. Luckily my pants were already wet, it was huge, a body my size, broad, lumpy and chocolate brown. Fantastic but I squealed when I spotted it and it took off like a tram over the reef into deep water. Willie saw it the next day and confirmed my “Rottie with no legs” theory.
Next day we did exactly the same thing. Before heading off, Belinda put the bread machine on and off we went for another fantastic dive. Once the kids were cold, and we all had had enough, it was back to Shayile for fresh bread and a great lunch!
We spent time exploring the island, went fishing and generally just lapped up the great weather and fantastic surroundings. Things were just getting better every day!
On the third day we visited the lodge again. It was not in use and really was a mess! Apparently there were plans to renovate and restore, but nothing happens very fast up this neck of the woods.
Sunset off Margaruque
After another morning dive and then lunch, Willie and I decided it was time to go fishing. We had some Half Beaks as bait and set off down the channel. Trawling slowly, with the Half Beaks as trolling bait, we sat patiently waiting for a take. Next thing Willie was in! It took off like a train and the battle begun! For about 20 minutes, Willie fought the fish as it slowly tired and eventually surfaced. A Giant Kingfish (Ignobelis) and a real beaut! We had no gaff with us so I made a lasso from a rope. With the fish alongside, I placed the lasso over its tail and heaved it on board. It was huge, about 1m and must have weighed some 30kg’s! I told Willie that this was a legend of a fish. A warrior of the ocean and we could not keep it. Initially Willie was keen to keep it, but soon he realized it was just too big to keep. That size of fish is not that good to eat and certainly does not deserve to be served up for dinner! We took the hooks out and I heaved it back overboard, holding it in my arms until it had regained its strength. It then did a little wriggle and disappeared off into the ocean depths. A great fight by a great fish and I was pleased to see it swim off to safety. What a fantastic and beautiful fish. So noble!
That evening we had sundowners with Willie and Lyn and planned our next move. We were going to set off for the island of Santa Carolina. (Paradise Island)
25th July 2005
Up at 5.15am and B and I kick started the morning with our traditional cup of coffee. As it was light enough for us to leave, we weighed anchor and set off for Paradise Island.
It took about 4 hours to get there in virtually no wind. On the way, whilst I was fixing and sorting out toilets, the rod went! Belinda grabbed it and another fight was on. I came out and told B to give it a go. She got it right to the boat, before it took off again. A good sized Cuta of about 10kg’s, or rightfully known as a King Mackerel. Unfortunately the drag was set too tight and on its next dash for freedom, the hook pulled out! Disappointment again! When were we going to catch a nice sized edible fish?
Good came of that experience as B was now hooked on fishing and wanted to catch! The sound of a ratchet running and the feel of a fighting fish were embedded in her blood! Her time would come!
B: No lie that was top class entertainment, I was so focused on reeling in that fish that I never noticed that I skinned my knuckle against the reel and when it broke free and swam away, my left forearm was totally cramped up. Damn, now I know the regret of opportunity lost, I feel nothing for barracuda’s; one ate Nemo’s brothers and sisters. Anyway they taste great pickled and we need more lunch variety, plus onions are about all we have left on board.
Paradise Island
Again, what a beautiful place we had discovered! I can only describe it as “what you see in those TV ads!” Blue sea, with patches of darker reefed areas. So crystal clear you could see deep down into the water from above. Coral, fish, sand, the works!
I was in heaven. This was one of the many reasons as to why I decided to go sailing!
Again we dived and it was even better than Margaruque! A turtle hung around us for quite some time, the fish life was unbelievable! Really, what can I say!
Once back on board, we lazed around Shayile for the day.
B: When I spotted the turtle he was just floating above the reef with a haze of little fish eating the algae off his shell, just like the movie, Shark Tale, with the ‘whale wash.’ Seems turtles really are as laid back as depicted in Nemo, he really wasn’t concerned as we all gathered round. We’ve also seen large pods of whales out in the open ocean which is so nice to know that they are more common now. They seem really playful and launch themselves out the water to crash back in. Thank goodness this all happens at least 500m from the boat.
Outside Inhambane we had also seen a huge manta ray feeding around the boat, unfortunately we had just lifted anchor and couldn’t stay to watch it. We’ve seen dolphins but only small groups and none have swum along with us but probably because we were going too slowly.
Daniel was so lucky to have an eyeball to eyeball view of a rare, endangered dugong.. We were on deck and he said ‘Hey there’s an otter’, Rob saw a large brown back disappearing, too large for an otter. We found a picture of a manatee, ‘No it had a cute face and whiskers’. When he saw the dugong picture he was convinced. This is the only area in the world that has a self sustaining population of these sea-cow creatures that nurse their young in an upright position and were mistaken for mermaids by sailors of old. Daniel and Jenna are really enjoying the wild life and have learnt all the names and facts really quickly. The school work might be a bit erratic but they are learning lots and the yacht is decorated with lots of crafty artworks and paper plate animal faces. Poor Jens is sick of bedtime stories about fish, shells, volcanoes, snakes etc and I heard her say “Please can we have a story-story tonight”.
Having seen some unbelievable fish chases not too far away from Shayile, I set off on my ski with fly rod and trawling bait.
The tide was pushing. There were many chases around me and a few had a go at my fly. I was seriously worried that I was going to hook a “bus of a fish” and then try fight it whilst on the ski. I did not come right and decided to head for home. With the tide now against me, it was a haul! Had I left it another hour, I would not have been able to paddle back to Shayile. Even so, as I got to Jackaroo, Willie kindly came to my aid and, with me paddling, towed me back towards Shayile with his tender. Even with the assistance, we were not making much progress with his 2hp outboard. I shouted to Linn to radio Belinda. B came out on the ducky and towed me back in. Although in no great danger, (I could have paddled in to the shore at any time), it was scary how the current ran so strong! Later we were told the story where a cat fell overboard on a yacht in the area. Jumping in to rescue the cat, the owner could not make it back to his yacht and was never seen again!
By the time we were all back on board the current and wind had picked up and we decided to raise anchor and go around the island to a protected cove on the other side.
We anchored in 7m of water and, on dropping the anchor, it must have got caught behind a rock because as the current strengthened, it pulled the anchor out, and we started to drag our anchor! It eventually hooked again and with a violent snap, Shayile came to a sudden stop. I thought we had lost the anchor! We then set the bridle.
A bridle is a device used for anchoring. It is attached to the bow (or bows with a catamaran) of the yacht and secured to the anchor chain. This allows the weight, drag and forces of the anchor pulling on the yacht to be “absorbed” by the bows and takes the weight of the anchor chain off the anchor motor. (Called a windlass)
B: Strangely enough this afternoon had been one of my lowest moments, one of those times when I felt scared and inadequate. I’d seen Rob paddling slowly back and he was making progress and I was just folding and tidying up and the kids said “Let’s go and fetch Dad.” I said “wait ‘til I’m finished” When we finally did go and towed Rob back, I was shocked at how little headway we made against the current, even on the ducky. I felt incompetent driving the duck as usually everyone else is having a turn and I was horrified that the kids were without life-jackets. Needless to say later, after battling with the anchor, I was in floods of tears. It’s wonderful to all be together all the time but sometimes it is overwhelming feeling so responsible for all of our safety and never having a break. The currents around these islands were so fast and furious that the children couldn’t even play alone on deck.
Early morning on Shayile
The next 2 days was spent fishing, diving and exploring the island of Santa Carolina. (Paradise Island) As history goes it was named by one of the 18th century governors. He named the island after his wife, Carolina, who died in child birth. We went to the graves for a visit – Mother and Child, and what an outlook. It is on the north side of the island and looks out over a point. The water was amazing!
Unfortunately the island itself has a sad feel to it. To fully appreciate it, you have to go back in time to the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s. An airstrip would have brought in the guests. There is a wonderful hotel on the island built right on the rocks overlooking turquoise waters. The old lounge and dining room are clear to see, as is the bar and darts area. There is even a piano present where guests would have sat and enjoyed an evenings rendition. Upstairs is a parquet dance floor and a huge kitchen. The promenade runs from one side of the island to the other. What a place it must have been! Unfortunately it is now derelict and completely run down. A real sad sight and how it would be lovely to see it restored to its former glory. Let’s hope, but unfortunately there is a lot of politics and red tape hampering development on these islands.
Besides the old hotel, we visited the remains of an old fort on the island.
After 3 days on and off the island it was time to head for Vilanculos to pick up Paul and Tams and stock up on provisions for the crossing!
28th – 30th JULY 2005
We left Paradise Island with a 20-25kt SW wind, right on the nose, and it stayed with us all the way to Vilanculos! A very unpleasant trip beating into wind and current! Lots of hull slapping in a very short and choppy sea.
At about 2pm, we finally dropped anchor off Vilanculos and outside the beach lodge. Anchored close by was Salty Dog, Tayla, Island Quest and a big schooner.
That evening, it was anchor drag time again!! Unfortunately the holding in Vilanculos is notoriously bad and not a very secure anchorage. The sea bed has a lot of weed which hampers the anchor from gripping. Because Shayile was dragging anchor, we had to move late that night, and even put a second anchor down.
Next morning I went ashore and picked up Paul Vetter and Tamlyn Wright, our new crew.
Paul has done extensive sailing and came recommended by Meme Grant. He was on board Meme and Mike’s “hell trip” across the Atlantic when they had to abandon a sailing boat due to a kind of fiber poisoning on board!
Paul and Tams had worked on “Island Quest” in the Bassaruto Archipelago, with Paul as skipper and Tams taking care of the meals. Paul had also done a number of channel crossings and had sailed Madagascar. He is an avid diver and fisherman and an ideal guy to have on board for our big crossing to Madagascar.
To fill you in here, Belinda and I made the decision to get crew to assist. This was due to :-
- After the weather we had been through on the way up, we would certainly need extra hands if it happened again. A full blown storm in the channel, with my experience, did not appeal to me at that time!
- Having 2 kids on board, and B not too comfortable with navigating at night in bad weather, we felt we needed additional hands.
- I just felt more comfortable with back up especially at night.
Besides this, Paul could certainly give us a few sailing tips on the way. He and Tams were going to sail with us as far as Mahjunga, Madagascar. From there we would sail on alone and they would fly back home.
With Paul and Tams on board, we went into town and started buying provisions. Lugging 100lt’s of diesel and provisions back to the boat was no easy task!
We were also fortunate to meet up with our Kloof friends, Russell and Lisa Hanger. They were out to visit their new holiday spot at St Sabastiano, a peninsular just south of Basaruto. We met them at Smugglers Inn and caught up with some news from home. Only an hour or so, but it was great to see them!
B: It was so good to see mates from home and, sorry if I gave you guys too hard a squeeze; it’s been a long time and it was lovely to catch up with news from home. And thanks Lisa for telling everyone I’ve lost weight, you know the old brown fat, white fat theory…!
Back on board Shayile and later that night, we celebrated with a feast of prawns! These were truly delicious and beautifully cooked by Tams and what a joy to have some time out of the galley for B!
B: Amazing how Rob skips over this epic outing. Thank goodness for Paul and Tam and their local knowledge. After securing a ride on the back of the hotel bakkie full of French tourist’s luggage we were dropped near the market. Tam and I hit the local supermarket. Think dark, dusty Suleman’s Store, but it did have a till and slip and I didn’t have to haggle. In fact it had a trolley and I set about filling it with tinned fruit and veggies. I also found some hideously expensive gouda cheese but it was so long since we had proper cheese that I bought two. Prices were scary and the total bill was just under 2 million…beat that girls for a grocery shop!
The next day was reserved for passports and fresh produce. The tins and diesel were so heavy that the duck was low in the water after we hauled the stuff about 500m through the hotel pathways and across the beach. My arms are really toning up.
We braved the market… to say we were harassed is an understatement. The plague of teenagers that cajoled us, coerced us and brazenly tried to rob us was alarming. I bought mostly from one sweet lady who thanked me with a gift of a perfect golden delicious apple. I was really touched and after nothing fresh for some time we devoured it right there. Now if there is one thing that Mozambique should export its their bread, its just excellent and we bought a dozen rolls, mysteriously more expensive than yesterdays rolls but try arguing in Portuguese. Anyway we took our haul of fruit and a pocket of butternut, (yay!!) etc and left the dirty heaving market where youngsters have not respect for anyone but themselves. It was great to be back on the aquamarine sea after the dust and grime of real life.
That afternoon, being a Saturday and with Tri Nations on the go, we took a few beers and went ashore. Paul’s mate William has DSTV and we settled into a pleasant afternoon of Aussie bashing! It really lifts the spirits when we win the rugby, doesn’t it!
With the boat now full with diesel, fruit, veg and other necessities, we were ready to head off. Unfortunately the weather was not playing rugby, with NE and Easterly winds predicted for the next few days. (That’s right on the nose as we were sailing in an easterly direction)
We decided it best to head out to Indigo Bay Lodge on the Basaruto Island and wait there.
After anchoring up off Indigo Bay we immediately went for a dive. Paul had brought up my new underwater camera that my brother Donald had bought for me and I was dying to try it out.
I swam back to Shayile and there under Shayile was a Remora Fish. (The sucker fish you see on sharks) It was attached to our hull. Hanging from its mouth was a fishing trace complete with swivel and sinker. On climbing aboard, I told Belinda. She took a pair of scissors and jumped in. She managed to cut the trace line off leaving just the hook in its mouth. Full marks to B!
Paul and I dived the anchor, marking the chain out in 10m lengths. This is used to identify how much chain is let out when at anchor. I also got busy with cleaning the hulls of Shayile. We need every bit of speed we could get whilst crossing the Mozambique Channel!
Paul then went off fishing for “Lula”, (Squid / Calamari) successfully returning with his catch of squid.
Lunch that day, calamari caught by Paul! Terrible life out here in the Basaruto archipelago, diving, sunshine and enjoying the local cuisine! This is what cruising about! Not that frightening sail we had on the way up - fighting the elements, but then again: It’s not just the destination; it’s the journey that makes one appreciate the destination even more!
That night it was time for a small feast! Norman and Sam on Yacht Regal had sailed in to join us. Norman told us how he had lost an engine on the way up the coast and, coming in through the channel, got hit and swamped by 2 big waves. He had to turn around and head back out to sea. He was very lucky that it was just water damage and not something more serious.
So Lin, Willie, Norman and Sam joined our team for a meal of Calamari, fish, and an assortment of great food produced by the ladies. Out came the red wine and a pleasant evening was had by all as we exchanged sailing stories with our sailing companions.
B: Hmmm, Rob’s memory is still a bit spotty, probably still remembers the contents of boxes at The Adwarehouse but nothing too recent. I actually swam back with Rob after paddling back out after delivering cold and whinging little snorkelers back onto Shayile and, after doing my bit for the forlorn sucker fish, it was I who wiped the hull. He only did the deep bits I couldn’t reach!
Here’s where I tell you how a family snorkeling expedition goes. Rob gets into the ducky and toots the horn, sound familiar? Ok not quite that bad but nearly. When all 16 pieces of equipment plus 2 boogie boards, towels, juice, edible bribe to keep them quiet while I enjoy the soothing fish, and after much adjusting, tweaking and sometimes crying, we hit the water, Rob swims along whilst towing the duck behind him so all cold or tired people simply get hoisted back on, and we marvel at the fish life and beautiful coral.
In between all this, I avoid drownings, adjust masks, empty snorkels and marvel at whatever I am instructed to look at by my 2 charges. Rob blissfully floats and dives and now has an underwater camera to further distract him. But it’s still great with lots of fun! Jenna just loves to swim, never afraid of great shoals of game fish swimming below her. Dan is totally enthralled by giant clams and starfish and is thrilled with his new, bigger, flippers which Donald was kind enough to buy for him.
The happy team exploring underwater
B: Talking calamari, it is Daniel’s favourite thing to order in a restaurant! Well, now he has caught it, been sprayed ‘from head to toe’ by it and then been very active in the dismembering and preparing of it… very messy but fascinating because they have bright green eye shadow, more blue black ink than your average computer cartridge and the most man-made piece of ‘plastic looking backbone’. The cruncher is that Dan hasn’t enjoyed eating it. From the child who ate everything to Mr. Fussy in one ocean crossing… feel free to laugh all my mates with picky eaters, my time has come. Amazingly as his protein requirements aren’t being met he has started asking for peanut butter sandwiches which he never ate before!
That afternoon we prepared Shayile for the trip across to Madagascar. We checked safety gear, tied down diesel cans and other items, checked rigging and generally prepared Shayile.
The night before departure, we discussed our planned route across. Unfortunately, NE and easterly winds were on the cards for the next few days so motor sailing was going to be expected.
The plan was to head out to Bassas da India, a small atoll in the middle of the Mozambique channel. However, if we picked up the SE trades earlier, we would head straight for The Barren Islands just off Madagascar.
With the route set, it was off to bed for a good nights sleep!
It was time to leave Mozambique and cross the notorious Channel!
Heading out into the Mozambique Channel
